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Author Topic: ATTN loader/forwarder builders,  (Read 459 times)

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Offline Chop Shop

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ATTN loader/forwarder builders,
« on: December 01, 2017, 01:40:05 pm »
Where would a guy source pins and bushings/sleeves?

Say a guy is building an implement like a backhoe/ loader/ grapple/ etc,,  Where is a good source to buy pivot pins with sleeves/bushings that can be welded into arms and booms and pivots?

Offline Skeans1

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Re: ATTN loader/forwarder builders,
« Reply #1 on: December 01, 2017, 09:21:45 pm »
Where would a guy source pins and bushings/sleeves?

Say a guy is building an implement like a backhoe/ loader/ grapple/ etc,,  Where is a good source to buy pivot pins with sleeves/bushings that can be welded into arms and booms and pivots?
Wouldn't most of this be turned from a hardened tool steel or something like a cylinder rod?
Sleeve or a bushing would be the same I'd think either bronze or something along those lines.
Last pin I had made were from a cylinder rod.

Offline mike_belben

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Re: ATTN loader/forwarder builders,
« Reply #2 on: December 01, 2017, 09:38:06 pm »
Speedy metals or online metals.  Buy a length of your heavy wall DOM seamless tube with say a 1" ID and a length of your pin material (4130 or 4140 works well) with a matching OD.  then either cut them off in the saw or lathe with cutoff tool.  I would turn down a few undersize setup pins, locate the donuts in your parts with that and tack weld.  Then knock out the dummy pin, weld it all up and ream to final size with an adjustable reamer.  .  Things will get crooked and out of round while welding.

Offline Skeans1

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Re: ATTN loader/forwarder builders,
« Reply #3 on: December 01, 2017, 10:19:06 pm »
Speedy metals or online metals.  Buy a length of your heavy wall DOM seamless tube with say a 1" ID and a length of your pin material (4130 or 4140 works well) with a matching OD.  then either cut them off in the saw or lathe with cutoff tool.  I would turn down a few undersize setup pins, locate the donuts in your parts with that and tack weld.  Then knock out the dummy pin, weld it all up and ream to final size with an adjustable reamer.  .  Things will get crooked and out of round while welding.
One thing that might help is to stick a solid round of aluminum the size of the bore in to help pull heat out.

Offline Chop Shop

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Re: ATTN loader/forwarder builders,
« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2017, 02:23:44 am »
Good call!!  I didnt even think of an old hydro cylinder rod/shaft.

Offline mike_belben

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Re: ATTN loader/forwarder builders,
« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2017, 09:40:14 am »
The pin is only for tackup alignment.  If youve got aluminum on hand sure, thats fine.  But if you fully welded with an aluminum pin it would swell and jam in the bore then mushroom and gall if you tried to pound it out.  Would have to wait until fully cool.

If i were doing this often i would build undersized 4140 pins with 1/2-13 threaded blind holes at each end for a slide hammer puller, and a step register to mate with an air chisel driver adapter.  Antisieze the dummy pins to prevent gall when you have to press one out. 

Offline Skeans1

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Re: ATTN loader/forwarder builders,
« Reply #6 on: December 02, 2017, 10:23:34 am »
The pin is only for tackup alignment.  If youve got aluminum on hand sure, thats fine.  But if you fully welded with an aluminum pin it would swell and jam in the bore then mushroom and gall if you tried to pound it out.  Would have to wait until fully cool.

If i were doing this often i would build undersized 4140 pins with 1/2-13 threaded blind holes at each end for a slide hammer puller, and a step register to mate with an air chisel driver adapter.  Antisieze the dummy pins to prevent gall when you have to press one out.
When we built pin sets or pin bosses we either premade a jig with the exact pin you're using to keep it from working around with the heat. No matter what I was taught to slow cool those pin bosses after welding, sometimes we'd preheat them as well.

Offline Stuart Caruk

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Re: ATTN loader/forwarder builders,
« Reply #7 on: December 02, 2017, 03:48:36 pm »
Years ago when I made brush blades, forklift attachments, thumbs, etc. for large equipment without the CNC tools I have now, I'd machine my bushings .005" over the pin I wanted to use. I'd flame cut the holes in my frames, or attachments to fit the bushings with perhaps a .1" clearance. Align all the parts tack weld the bushings in place, make sure they tap back and forth with a hammer... add stronger tacks, then weld the sucker out. The pins always tapped out with little effort. You'll never notice the .005" running clearance.

Now that I've got a line bore I build customer parts with a .0015 slip fit, but you can do fine without a boring mill. FWIW, I typically use 4140 for the bushing and Accralloy for the pins.
Stuart Caruk
Wood-Mizer LX450 Diesel w/ debarker, Woodmizer twin blade edger, Barko 450 log loader, Clark 666 Grapple Skidder w/ 200' of mainline. Bobcats and forklifts.