New Guy ???

[Bosco]

I just got referred to this forum from over at trapperman, I just got started thinking about sawmills when I bought this property in the Bull Mts. in Montana, It has alot of Ponderosa "Bull" Pine on it, and needs to be cut. My neighbor found a home built mill in a hedgerow and got it going, it cost him some money and causes alot of headaches, so I started looking at mills, doing homework it looks like I'll get a Woodmizer. I'm not a woodworker or carpenter so I got alot to learn. I'm very interested in timber frame construction, it looks easy in some print and complicated in others. So far it seems like I should cut the trees in winter and mill them in spring? I'm looking at Lt10 or 15, I know I'll need other handling equipt. like an arch, I got a tractor,saws , axes,peavys, etc. My first projects will be a shed for the mill, a wood shed, a sauna, Then hopefully a Timber frame Barn not too big , I got no intentions of making this a buisness, just a hobby as I said I need to remove a bunch of trees. Is Ponderosa pine good for these projects? Can I use it without drying it? Any help apreciated I know I got alot to learn I just learned how to use a computer a little bit! still need my grandaughter to unscrew it for me hopefully my new mill wont kill me, I'm still kicking tires and am curious what Mizer has for Black Friday, but as a hobbiest is the Lt10 enough? I also got trees that I wont be able to skid maybe need a chainsaw mill to get to those?

[Grizzly]

Welcome to the Forum!! The chaps with answers will be along shortly. I've trucked through your area and I always find it great country. Not sure I could live in it but I sure enjoy visiting.

[Savannahdan]

Welcome Bosco.  I had an old navy buddy from Bozeman.  Haven't heard from him in years.  He always talked about going into the woods and hiding from other people.  Sorry I don't have any experience with Ponderosa Bull Pine.  Others can help.  Happy Thanksgiving to All.

[TKehl]

Welcome!

A lot of people start out with LT10s and 15s.  Some upgrade later, others sell when the projects is done, others hang onto it long term.  Few complaints and good resale value.  There are other options, but sure hard to go wrong with WM.

The biggest question I have is will it handle the lengths of beams you plan to cut?  And what would be a typcial diameter log?  Max diameter?

If you were mostly looking at beams, this would be the rare moment I'd recommend a chainsaw mill.  However, it sounds like you can use a bunch of boards as well.

[starmac]

I may be wrong, but can't you just keep adding track to the LT15's easy enough. I have always thought it would be nice to have one as an extra saw, just to make long beams.

I sometimes deliver logs to natural log home builders, most that I have been to cut their sill logs with a chainsaw, but at least one has a small manual mill set up with probably 60 feet of track.

[Bosco]

As said very new, very green on all subjects! I've spent hours reading and learning all ready! information overload! I do want to make alot of boards and as far as timbers go alot of the stuff I been looking at was a series of 10' squares? made it look like working with Lincoln Logs that I remember as a kid. I was looking at a site called "BarnGeeks" they use steel T-Plates instead of fancy jointery.

[dustyhat]

Welcome ,Bosco, i knew you would injoy it here.

[customcutter01]

Welcome Bosco, I just joined also.  My question, based on my own learning curve is will a manual mill meet your needs?  I know that when I first started I thought about building my own, but I soon realized at 63, and previous back issues, I was going to need hydraulics to help with the work.  I'm now looking at a Cook's Saw HD 3238, unfortunately they don't have one to demo until early Dec.

We plan on building a 40X60 shop (will live in temporarily) and also building a 2-3000sq ft log home.  We are presently looking for land in LA (lower Alabama) with mature timber.

Good luck,
Ken

[Crossroads]

Glad you found us Bosco, I was going to point you this way, but was to busy defending WM lol. There is a ton of knowledge on this site.

[Chuck White]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Bosco!

[Brad_bb]

Welcome!  The first question to ask is whether you want to mill or you really just want to build using your wood?  It's a whole job in itself just to cut ,buck and move your logs to a landing for milling.  Once you do that you can choose to get a mill and do it yourself, or hire another sawyer to come and mill them for you and pay him. Doing that would still be cheaper than going out and buying beams(presuming he's got a good mill and moving at a good pace at a reasonable fee for you). 

So do you want to mill or just build?  Milling is a whole addiction in itself.  If you decide to mill, know that manual mills are much slower than hydraulic mills.  If you get a manual mill, I say get the LT15 or LT15 wide if you plan on slabbing or working with large logs.  Depending on your age and physical condition, there's more manual work with the manual mills.   You have to turn logs/beams by hand with a cant hook.  You can get hydraulic claw or chain turners on some hydraulic mills. 

I have an LT15go.  The go means it's on a trailer chassis and sitting up off the ground.  I prever the go's working height, a lot less bending over as opposed to the regular LT15 or LT10 which sit lower to the ground.  The LT15 is not a speed demon, and I cut mostly beams for myself(timberframing).  I had to go with the LT15go because I wanted the Woodmizer beam planer and it has to be on a two rail mill.  I got a mill because I wanted to mill my own unique pieces, naturally curved pieces, for timberframing.  Now I'm addicted to milling.

[wesdor]

Welcome to the forum Bosco. I think you will find this to be a friendly place with lots of useful information.

Turning large logs is challenging when you have a manual mill (I have an LT15 so can speak from experience). You seem to be caught in the same struggle I faced - not having enough money to go hydraulic but wanting a mill).

You might search for a used hydraulic or just accept the challenge of turning logs manually.

Sawing is a wonderful addictive hobby. Hope you enjoy it as much as I do. 

[Sixacresand]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Bosco.  I milled a lot of lumber and beams on a LT-10, 10 HP engine. 
For the larger logs, you will figure out a way to handle, load and turn them.  Keep us posted.

[rjwoelk]

I have a 15 with 37 ft cutting length. They come in 6.5 ft extensions.  I built a log cabin. I am cutting timber for a timber framed shed. I use my loaderbto turn a large log. A strap around the log with a choker as it tightens up the log rotates. Any thing longer than 20 ft i usually use the tractor to rotate.

[rjwoelk]

I have a 15 with 37 ft cutting length. They come in 6.5 ft extensions.  I built a log cabin. I am cutting timber for a timber framed shed. I use my loader to turn a large log. A strap around the log with a choker as it tightens up the log rotates. Any thing longer than 20 ft i usually use the tractor to rotate.

[firefighter ontheside]

Ponderosa pine should be fine for timber framing.  Using green lumber in a timber frame building will be ok, because the shrinkage will not be compounded as it would be in a long home.  My log home was built with green logs, but it was engineered to fit better as it shrunk.  I have thru rods that had to be tightened as the logs shrunk and a few times I had to cut extra length off of the rods in the basement.