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Makita 6100 advise

Started by Greenerpastures, November 08, 2017, 01:22:23 PM

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Greenerpastures

Hello again everyone.

I just got a Makita 6100 and need your opinions regarding
the correct mix and carb adjustment.

This saw is Stratafied, it has a reed vavle,
this concerns me in regard to keeping it as
clean as possible, and the only way to do this is to use
the correct mix ratio and tune it to run right.

So what mix would you all reccommend, 40:1 or 50:1,
50:1 is specified, its a new saw, and I want to ensure it
gets enough lube.

Carburettor,
Does anyone know if the carb on this saw has restrictors
fitted, to one or both needles.
If so, then has anyone any advise on removing them.
Or do these saws normally come with enough headroom
in the restrictor to allow safe adjustment, to keep her rich enough.

Carburettor adjustment,
This saw according to the spec sheet runs 13,800 max rpm with bar and chain on.
Would I be better to use a tachometer, and adjust the H to between 13,200 and 13,300
for the run in period.
Are my mumbers ok or would you all reccomed a lower rpm setting,
keeping in mind am trying to keep her clean so as not to clog
the reed with uny neccessary oily residue.

I look forward to your opinions, and thank you for them.

Greenerpastures

Has anyone experience of these saws,
they are the same as the Dolmar 6100.

Thanks

sawguy21

That is a fine saw right out of the box. To preserve your warranty run 50:1 and leave the carb alone unless you are having problems.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Greenerpastures

Hi sawguy21, thanks for posting.
I never even started the saw yet, thats why am interested in
the best oil mix to use, I know these use 50:1 but is this so they can
pass the EPA tests, I was hoping to hear people were using 40:1 as oil
plays a major part in longevity of any engine, but no as of yet seems
to be doing this.

I will therfor go with the 50:1, my next cunundrum is whether
to use synthetic or dino oil.
I was hoping to standardise the oil I use as I have four saws.
One of them, the CS 510 asks for Jasco FD or ISO L-EGD
which is not surprising, because this oil is really low ash,
and the muffler outlet on this saw is in my opinion too small
and the spark arrestor is really restrictive, so the above oil is a good choice.
My 490 also asks for Jasco L-EGD, but also states FC EGD, so its not at all picky
which is confirmed when I run it at 40:1 on FC type oil and it does very well.

Next pernicity saw is the Makita 6100, which asks for Jasco FC or ISO EGD
which I think is a slightly lesser oil regarding ash, not lube property's.

And there is my conundrum, between those two saws,
would I be beter off using the more high spec Jasco L-EGD on both,
and would fully synthetic be the way to go.

I have a Makita 7900 that I go 40:1, and this mix also does for my Shindaiwa
490, so these are covered, they both have been running on this mix and are
even tuned rich, and still burn clean, so am happy with them, the extra oil in
the mix seems to be cancelled out with the slightly rich A/F mixture, and they run
cool, I tired 36:1 in them with the same tuning, and the Makita ran hotter, the
Shindaiwa did not mind at all, so settled on 40:1.

I think I should have started an oil thread, for looking through my post it is
exactly what am trying to figure, these new epa saws are a nuesance, I would
love to put 40:1 into them but for the warranty.



Reddawg

I use a 40:1 in all my saws, including my new 461. It may be closer to 45 due to my mix can being 21/2 gals. In general I have never experienced a problem with a 40:1 with a high octane gas. If you run lower octane, get a booster to mix in, as it will help in keeping detonation of the mixture in the proper cycle of the piston and valves.

Greenerpastures

Hi Reddawg, thanks for posting.
I use good fuel, and 40:1 seems very good in the Shindaiwa 490
and the Makita 7900.

I can honestly say, that any oil will lube a saw if mixed to
the right ratio, its the dam mufflers that cause me the problems,
they are so restrictive just to aid a manufacturer in getting through
the EPA rubbish, that running normal good mixes gum them up.

There really is a new market for off the shelf mufflers that are a
bolt on replacement with the flow rates properly matched to the saw.
This muffler modding of new saws is just not on, you buy a product it
should run correctly, not blocked up to make EPA happy, would it not
be great if the OEM outfits made mufflers that had an adjustable opening,
just loosen a screw and swing to the side a bit, they could put it down to one
muffler fits many saws. But no, the EPA will make the saw manufacturers
very rich with us all replacing burned out saws due to restricted mufflers.
EPA = not good for mankind.

Greenerpastures

Reddawg, what brand oil are you using, is it synthetic.

Thanks

Fishnuts2

I run the same mix in my 6100 as well as my other 40 saws, along with my weed trimmers, leaf blowers, LawnBoy mowers,  two ice augers, and snow thrower.
It's Saber mixed with E free gas at 32-1.  I've used Saber for over 40 years and absolutely no gummed mufflers or problems.  Just make sure the tune is correct, and don't over think things.

Reddawg

Greenerpastures, I only run synthetic oil now, I've been converted over the years just because of the performance characteristics over the Dino based. I will admit that my trusty 034, and 044 and a whole bunch of smaller climbing saws have had many many tanks of the Dino mix, and never a problem.
I agree with the muffler restrictions, they cause many carbon build problems but much less with the synthetic oils I find. I typically use the Echo Xtreme full synthetic. It's convenient to get for me and has been worked well. Any synthetic brand will be similar, but I can't bring myself to spend almost double on Amsoil. I do for my trucks and tractors, it's just I would use a lot of it and it get $$$.
Like what was said in the post right after, dont over think it but mix it the same every time and tune your saw to it. At 40:1 I feel a safer when I'm cutting in hot days and I don't have to work about my other equipment needed different mixtures. I seen the results when I recently took the baffle plate out of my 034AV, just for fun, and the piston and exhaust port were like new. The mod to the muffler didn't do much, other than in my mind. Keep your chain sharp always, and mix with the same can to stay consistent.
Just and FYI, I worked a Makita 6421(?) and I wasn't that impressed. Sure it cut but it just didn't quite live up to the hype. I admit I'm a Stihl man, and just love the bark they have at WOT.

Greenerpastures

Quote from: Fishnuts2 on November 09, 2017, 09:45:17 AM
I run the same mix in my 6100 as well as my other 40 saws, along with my weed trimmers, leaf blowers, LawnBoy mowers,  two ice augers, and snow thrower.
It's Saber mixed with E free gas at 32-1.  I've used Saber for over 40 years and absolutely no gummed mufflers or problems.  Just make sure the tune is correct, and don't over think things.
Hi Fishnuts2, thank you for posting.
I will look up Saber oil, we don't get a lot of choice here in Ireland.
Right now its probably going to be echo brand or Husqvarna.
The Husqvarna oil concerns me though, it states not to use it in
saws lower than 55cc, am concerned it is for lower compression
engines, thus my 6100 with 200psi may not get on with it, thick
oil in a mix will drastically increase compression, I nearly pulled my
arm off with 36:1 in the 7900, and the small change to 40:1 I could
feel the difference.

Greenerpastures

Quote from: Reddawg on November 09, 2017, 10:17:27 AM
Greenerpastures, I only run synthetic oil now, I've been converted over the years just because of the performance characteristics over the Dino based. I will admit that my trusty 034, and 044 and a whole bunch of smaller climbing saws have had many many tanks of the Dino mix, and never a problem.
I agree with the muffler restrictions, they cause many carbon build problems but much less with the synthetic oils I find. I typically use the Echo Xtreme full synthetic. It's convenient to get for me and has been worked well. Any synthetic brand will be similar, but I can't bring myself to spend almost double on Amsoil. I do for my trucks and tractors, it's just I would use a lot of it and it get $$$.
Like what was said in the post right after, dont over think it but mix it the same every time and tune your saw to it. At 40:1 I feel a safer when I'm cutting in hot days and I don't have to work about my other equipment needed different mixtures. I seen the results when I recently took the baffle plate out of my 034AV, just for fun, and the piston and exhaust port were like new. The mod to the muffler didn't do much, other than in my mind. Keep your chain sharp always, and mix with the same can to stay consistent.
Just and FYI, I worked a Makita 6421(?) and I wasn't that impressed. Sure it cut but it just didn't quite live up to the hype. I admit I'm a Stihl man, and just love the bark they have at WOT.
Thanks for explaining, I have an Echo dealer not too far away,
so will look into the fully Synthetic you mention.
How does this oil keep in your mix if you have it around a while,
does it seporate.
Regarding the 6421, I don't think they are the exact same as the 6400,
and probably suffer from EPA measures even more as they keep steppin
this up.
I was looking for a 6400 and none to be had, thats why I then went for
the 6100, sadly the parts off it won't fit my 7900 like the 6400 parts would.

I appreciate your commenting, thanks.

fordf150

40:1 unless your using amsoil then stick to the 50:1. tune in wood as you normally would or if tuning with a tach- start off at 13500 for break in. DD on the H screw. dont worry about the reads, they are on the strato side so no mix ever touches them

Greenerpastures

Quote from: fordf150 on November 09, 2017, 12:02:58 PM
40:1 unless your using amsoil then stick to the 50:1. tune in wood as you normally would or if tuning with a tach- start off at 13500 for break in. DD on the H screw. dont worry about the reads, they are on the strato side so no mix ever touches them
Hi fordf150, thanks for posting, I know you know your Dolmars.
And I can't beleive your the only one who clearly knows that
the reeds are not in the line of fire regarding mix, very pleased
you have confirmed this.
I will put a Tach on her and see how she is, though ajschainsaws
sent me the saw, so am sure she will be fine, but it is always best
to know what is possible and what to avoid.
I can not get Amsoil here, so will be using either echo power blend
or Husqvarna oil, just not sure if I should go synthetic or semi.

Stihl are doubling the warranty on their HOME OWNER saws if you use
their ultra Syntheric, while it looks like they reccommend Semi synth for PPROFESSIONAL
use, am worried there is a message in there, maybe this "ultra" low ash stuff has less
lubricating or shearing ability left in it, hens the Semi Synthetic being promoted for pro use.

Amsoil is 100% Synthetic, the others mentioned are obviousely not.

Anyway, good to know I can use other brand synthetic at 40:1.

Thanks & Regards to all who posted.

Reddawg

Your right, just checked the bottle of Echo and it is a synthetic blend. I've mixed a lot of fuel for myself and others overs the years and this has been a solid performer on anything we've used from chainsaws to brushwackers.
I tune in the shop with a tach, but I don't overdue it going WOT just to get a few more rpms.
Good info on that dolmar 6100, hope it performs.

Greenerpastures

Hi Reddawg
My take on the echo power mix is that it is better
than the red armour.
You can run it at 40:1, and the added volume of oil
will do what oil is supposed to do, note also this oil
has a very high detergent content, this is what keeps
things clean.
I do not tune for highest rpm either, its no good, you need
to have power in the torque band, if you slow down in the
cut you loose, and there is no heavy rotating mass in a chainsaw
to provide momentum, so a waste of time getting to the highest rpm.

What is the biggest saw you ran the echo powermix in.

That echo red aromor, I saw a guy who knows his stuff doing
a review on a chineese saw, he run 5 tanks through it,
tore it down, it looked oiled, but there was a layer
of what ever sitting on the piston top, he never mentioned this,
he tested and tested and tore down, saw never missed a beat,
but that layer kept growing, and he never once mentioned or
removed it, now who on earth would not see that layer on
the piston, it built up over a short time, and given more time
what would you do with it, I have a saw 40 yrs old and there
is nothing like this on the piston, it was never opened, I still
have issues figuring out why anyone could let this build up slip
and not mention it, or scrape it off during the numerous tear downs.

I saw anoher guy give a look inside his 6100 after a few tanks of
red armour, and it was not what one would expect.

Given the red armour or powermix, I would be sticking with the
powermix, for I have no intention of performing tear downs or
key hole surgery to clean up after red armour.
It certainy lubricates, and it may have properties that keep
the saw cool, but its messy, may be in the hands of another
expert, it would be different, but I have only had two looks
at it in use its not for me.

I ran Jonsered Jasco FD, its also semi synthetic
and it was the cleanest oil I ever ran, no mess on plug or piston top.

fordf150

the powerblend echo oil leaves allot of ash/carbon. red armor has been great for me, i would suspect a severely rich tune was more to blame than the oil on those tear downs. red armor is rated FD which is the highest rating available and IIRC has allot more detergent in it than other oils which leads to it leaving very little carbon and actually cleaning old carbon from the cylinder. I refuse to sell the powerblend oil in my shop after seeing what it leaves behind.

dont over think it, pick a quality, name brand oil, rated at least FC but preferably FD, make sure its tuned correctly, fuel mixed correctly whether that be 40:1, 50:1, or somewhere in between and just run it like you stole it. consistent quality mix, clean air filters, sharp chain, and proper tuning and it will last for years, there's no need to treat this thing like its a $40k car/truck...its a $600 saw that with just the items i mentioned will outlast that $40k car.


doubling the warranty with purchase of premium oil is just a marketing gimmick, gets you to buy the more expensive oil initially and hopefully continue coming back to buy even more.

Greenerpastures

Hi ford150
Strange to here that echo powerblend leaves a lot of ash,
as it is also FD specification, it should have the same cleaning
power. Good way to protect the environment and the spark screen
though, keep all the gunk in the saw, will need to investigate this.

Thanks for posting

Reddawg

Both of you know oil , so it would take a lot to over think y'all. That is a good thing, I don't go that deep to tear down and do forensics. I have to run what I have and run it like I stole it. Like that saying even though I would never do that.
The echo in my saws, biggest I run is the 660 but my 461r is the mule, doing just about everything. The smaller ones are really just to keep them exercised. Never saw build up of ask with the echo oil, I perhaps did on a weed wacker, but that was because it was so out of tune it was pathetic. I don't spend too much time on that equipment but it needs care too.
I'll stick to the echo because I know it and the saws that I run. They are tuned every time I use them and they have been good to me. My 034 has been with me for over 30 years and although she won't compete with the 461 I don't hesitate to take it along for the "what the hell happened" case with the big dogs.
Keep me posted on more trials, I really enjoy the knowledge you both have. Wish I could say the same.

Greenerpastures

Hi Reddawg
Thank you for posting about your experience with powerblend,
I have done more research, and I will post my findings,
may be someone will find them usefull.

Thanks & Regards to all

Greenerpastures

After doing my research, I noted that the majority of people had no problems,
# as long as they used an oil from a reputable company.
# that it is more important to not use an oi that has a bad reputation,
# and that the tune of the saw will gain you more engine protection
# than you can get from trying to find a super oil of sorts.

# Use a barand name oil and tune rich enough, this will give the best results
in my opinion.

On another note, I sold the Makita 6100, and bought a Stihl 362.
Very different saw, no comparison between the two at all,
6100 in my opinion is a much better saw, better built, better thought
out airbox, with plenty more room for cleaning and mentainance, and
better sealed against dust.
And a complete animal as regards power.
Stihl MS 362 is lighter, less well built, really cluttered in the airbox,
so will be a lot harder to clean out, or work in there.
Is it a bad saw, NO, it will suit my son because it is lighter,
and it will never be put under pressure for what he will be doing.
If I had to have saw to make a living with, I would take the Makita 6100
any day, over the Stihl MS 362.

Hope this helps others who are looking at such saws.

Regards to all.

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