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Band guide rollers

Started by bandmiller2, October 31, 2017, 07:20:51 AM

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bandmiller2

Have any of you tried making them from a softer material such as brass or nylon.?? In the world of moving machinery its common practice to not mate hard to hard or soft to soft. Maybe A softer roller would work better with the hardish band. Are the groves in A flanged roller really needed. What about a flanged roller with a brass/bronze bushing pressed on, replicable when worn. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

ladylake

   I really like the idea of a replaceable bushing, Now I'll have to take one down to the machine shop and try that  , grooves just seem to fill up with hard packed sawdust. I'd be willing to try it without them. .  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

paul case

Some just run bearings against the band for roller guides and they dont have any grooves.

popcorn_smiley

PC
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

delvis

I think softer roller material would wear much faster and cause the blade not run straight.  Our mill has close to 1800 hours on it and we've replaced the bearings in the rollers once.  It will have new rollers in the spring so I think for the amount of time they last and the money they cost, it's not worth trying to make a better mouse trap.

As far as mills that let the band run against a bearing instead of using guides, I don't like the idea because all I've ever heard is the back of the blade should not be running against anything.
If I never saw another board I will at least die happy having spent the last few years working with my dad!

Crusarius

if the blade is riding straight on the guides in theory it should wear evenly. We all know the truth to that. It is mostly not true. What might be nice is a multi piece soft wheel with the front section replaceable separate from the rest. Since the front does wear faster than the rest.

The bearing vs bushing is definitely a good argument. Lots of improvement in "bearings" since the ball bearing was developed.

"bearings" can be roller or bushing type.

woodyone.john

Perhaps if the rollers had thicker lands and smaller grooves to the front and larger grooves and smaller lands to the back they might wear down evenly?
Saw millers are just carpenters with bigger bits of wood

Coltbodi

Quote from: woodyone.john on October 31, 2017, 01:07:32 PM
Perhaps if the rollers had thicker lands and smaller grooves to the front and larger grooves and smaller lands to the back they might wear down evenly?
The cooks guide rollers are like that, the front has a thick land than the rest since it wears down faster. I don't think I would like my rollers made out of something softer since it would wear down even faster and might make for an uneven cut. But we won't know until someone tries it! As far as bearings vs roller guides I prefer the roller guides with the grooves. The grooves in my opinion help keep the bearings inside cooler. Kind of like fins on an air cooled motor. My mill had bearings when I got it and I swopped over to roller guides, so far I am happy.
If I can't fix it, I don't want it.
Timberking 1600 with lots of mods, a 65hp mahindra with a front end loader, a welding shop, and sugarcane mill from 1890 for making syrup

bandmiller2

I have mentioned this before but after many sharpening's my 1 1/2" bands wear down to 1 1/4" and start to dive. The narrow band on the 1 1/2 guide roller reduces the set on the inside teeth of the band and causes it to dive. I am planning to press a thin brass bushing onto the flanged roller for 1 1/4" bands. I will make a couple of notches on the back of the bushing so I can pull it off the roller. Maybe a soft roller with a hard replicable "tire" pressed on might be worth trying. A mild steel roller would be cheaper to manufacture relying on the replicable hard pressed on bushing to take the wear. Frank C. 
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

barbender

I think the grooves in the rollers keep the pitch from building up on the band as bad. I had a mill that just used bearings, and it really packed the pitch onto the blade.
Too many irons in the fire

JRWoodchuck

The last blades I ordered were 1 1/2 turbo 7s. I ran them on my 1 1/4 roller guides with zero adjustments and they seem to be quite happy on there. You could try that so when your blades are sharpened down the guides wouldn't bother them.
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

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