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Making Ash T&G for barn stalls, input needed.

Started by Brad_bb, October 26, 2017, 09:19:49 PM

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Brad_bb

So I've been taking a lot of dying Ash down on our property and I also have an economical supply from another source at .25/BF Doyle. 

Since I have access to all this Ash, and in the process of building a horse barn, I thought why not use Ash instead of buying 2x6 SYP T&G?  Ash will look better, i've looked and it's apparently pretty neutral for horses, and I have access to it. 

My trouble right now is finding a moulder to turn the Air dried lumber into planed T&G.  It seems either people don't want to change their set up for my 11,500 linear feet of material, or they will not use my material because they are afraid of metal.  I understand that and told them I'd metal detect and if metal is struck, pay for sharpening or replacement of cutters.  They still said NO.

I can't price this out because I so far can't find anybody to give me costing for moulding.
Normally I would have air dried it, but the GC wants half of it sooner for the interior walls so that would mean kiln drying.  I have not started cutting any boards yet.  I would also employ one or two other sawyers to cut Ash on their hydraulic mills to get it done and drying. 

Any help with finding someone that will 4 head mold them  in Indiana or Illinois appreciated.  Any other input appreciated.  I can take being called nuts.  Won't be the first time.

Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

firefighter ontheside

You can try calling Doug White Hardwoods in Marissa IL.  618-295-2155
I have had a lot of stuff milled by him, but it was always his wood.  Still worth giving him a call. 
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redprospector

You might look around. I think you might buy an old XL 2"x6" molder, or a Madison 276 for what it would cost you to hire it done, or less.
That's my 2 cents, but it's why I have so much old stuff too.  :D
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TKehl

Do you want the horse stall wood planed?  If left rough sawn, a table saw would make short (shortish) work of a tounge and groove.  Shiplap would be another option that is table saw friendly.

For the interior stuff:  The next concern for a 4 head moulder is uniformity of size and number of widths of your current blanks.  Some moulding machines are pickier than others.  Many want the rough cut to be skip planed to uniform thickness.  Straight line ripped to a uniform width and removing the major defects are big pluses.  If you currently have just rough cut boards, a moulding shop will see a lot of pre-prep required.  Doing more of the prep work may help get their attention.
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WDH

If you use it outside for paneling, I suspect that you best treat it for powderpost beetles.  They love ash.  They will not bother the SYP.
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Will_Johnson

Just from one horseman to another, I'd suggest not having T&G between your stalls. The ventilation provided by a little space between the boards is beneficial in any number of ways.

Joed

  I agree with Will, not using T&G. At some point a plank will get kicked or leaned on real hard. Changing a standard plank is no problem. Done it plenty. Replacing T&G, you would have to remove one side of the grove to get it in.
Valley Big Green Monster

Don P

For treatment... has anyone used borated wood in stalls, I assume they'll crib on it and if so has that been looked at?

addicted

Hey Brad
So what did you come up with for a solution? I was trying to justify buying a shaper for a similar project.
Rusty

Brad_bb

Nothing yet.  Been on a jobsite for a few weeks.  I did start milling 2x8's (8/4x8).  I started doing my shortest logs first- 4footers to 7 footers.  It helped clean the deck up. They were ones with crotches so I milled them for crotch feather. In the next couple weeks I'm going to try to take advantage of some offers to check out some molders to get a better feel for the direction I need to go.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

alan gage

What's the advantage of T&G over butt jointed in this application?

Alan
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Southside

I am a bit too far but I would be willing to run your material.  Like the others said there is the prep work but you can either pay for that or do it yourself.  We are setting our unit up with an edger and a dedicated 20" planer in front of it to deal with the uniformity issues and keep the molder happier.  T+G in stalls is pretty popular with the "equestrian" folks on the east coast. 
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ButchC

I  have 5 barns built in the 30s and sided with 1x6 TG what Dad used to call box car siding. All are in need of repair. I also wish there was somebody around that would mill my 1x6 Ash to T&G "car siding" but no luck finding anyone. I lucked into an unused 3HP Powermatic one side molder with power feed for very little cash so my current (labor intensive) plan is to run the material through my planer, then joint one side, then table saw for width then off to the molder and using a V panel cutter set I will do the T&G. Then back to the table saw to cut the V notch in the center of the boards. Waay too much work for 10s of 1000s of board feet but will keep me busy and thus out of trouble for a quite a while, while making the few thousand ft I need for my barns.
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nativewolf

Quote from: Brad_bb on December 04, 2017, 10:27:31 AM
Nothing yet.  Been on a jobsite for a few weeks.  I did start milling 2x8's (8/4x8).  I started doing my shortest logs first- 4footers to 7 footers.  It helped clean the deck up. They were ones with crotches so I milled them for crotch feather. In the next couple weeks I'm going to try to take advantage of some offers to check out some molders to get a better feel for the direction I need to go.

Oh..and no pictures.  Breaking cardinal rule of forum  :D
Liking Walnut

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