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blade sharpening services

Started by Gary_B, January 01, 2005, 04:38:32 PM

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Gary_B

 I was wondering if anyone knows a blade sharpening service that sharpens all makes of blades, I have about 20 blades, some timberking, woodmizer, monkey saver, all mixed up. I read somewhere that woodmizer only sharpens there blades, although it seems like they have a pretty good system. But I like to try different makes of blades to see which ones cut best for me.

WV_hillbilly

  If you find a place locally Gary let me know as i will be needing this service also .
Hillbilly

chet

I've been sending my blades to one of our sponsers, Menominee Saw. They have sharpened any blade I have sent them thus far. I mark the manufacturer on the blades with a permenant marker, to make identification easier for them.
I am a true TREE HUGGER, if I didnt I would fall out!  chet the RETIRED arborist

WH_Conley

Chet, do they set them to? I bought blades from one company that said they would sharpen but not set them. I always felt that this was like only doing half a job.
Bill

chet

I am a true TREE HUGGER, if I didnt I would fall out!  chet the RETIRED arborist

WH_Conley

Bill

Gary_B

West Virginia Hillbilly, I have this one guy that sharpens my handsaws up on 250,and one day when I went by to pick up my saws he did have a bandsaw mill blade, that he had sharpen, but he didnt seem to reassureing he knew what he was doing, I believe he charged like 6.00, I might drop one off and see how it turns out. Im sorry I never got back in touch with you, but I hadnt been running my mill as much as I like to, it sort of goes with my work, I have been layed off for the past 3 weeks, so you know where I have been. Sawing everything in the yard.

EZ

Gary and Dan, I try to see where you are located on the map but couldnt fine you. My blade man is in Alliance, O. He charges me $4.50 for sharp and set. If you want I'll give you his phone number.
Like Chet said he will sharpen any blade but he has to know what it is.
EZ

WV_hillbilly

 Gary    I found out last night that there is supposed to be a sawmill shop in Bethesda that will  do blades . McCormicks is the name I was told , it is near Epworth Park . When I get more info I'll let you know . I know about the work thing as we are busy too .

EZ    That would be nice if you can get  that info  for us .
Hillbilly

Gary_B

Thanks for all the information, if you guys can get that information, that would be great. It would be so nice to have a place you could take your blades and have them done, and not have to ship. Seems like the cost of shipping these days have gone up, along with everything else, except wages

WV_hillbilly

  Heres the info I found out Gary . The place is called

McCormick's & Son  
105 Gracie St
Bethesda, OH

  740 -484- 4523

 I haven't talked to them yet but i will tommorrow .  I was also thinking about it would be nice to find a local saw shop to do sharpening  so I wouldn't have to ship them . If they can take care of my needs I will go there Friday and drop off some that I need sharpened  and see if they can make me a few  blades .  I know they sell Simmonds teeth for circle mills so I hope the sell Redstreak bands too . I will keep you informed of what happens  .
Hillbilly

EZ

Here is my blade mans name and phone number.

Andy Steed 1-330-428-1691

He works day shift (7am to 3pm).

EZ

Gary_B

 I really appreciate all the information, I will be definely calling these places, the one in Bethesda is only 30 minutes away. It would be a dream to have a band saw blade shapener and tooth setter, on hand but I just dont saw enough to warrant one. Maybe I can talk that WV Hillybilly into buying one, now that the addiction has set in :D, good luck with your new mill, sometime we will have to hook up, I probally cannot give to much advice, for I am learning everyday, mostly from this site. Like I said one other time in a forum, I think I would have sold my mill by now if it wasnt for this web site,  the information everyone has contributed, has help tremendous, and I really love to saw.

WV_hillbilly

  The sharpener and setter are  on the ( getting longer by the day )  wish list . Sometime we will have to get together and shoot the breeze Gary . I was always told that if you don't learn something everyday , your  probably sittin on your duff wasting  opportunities .  I  have to agree about this forum . it is a great source of information and friendship .
Hillbilly

Gary_B

Hillbilly,
    I contacted  McCormick & Sons today, and they dont sharpen band saw blades, only circular mills blades. He does keep some band mill blades in stock, one size I believe, they are 13' 2" simmonds. He was telling me about a Amish up in Quaker City that does blades, Now this is just hear say, but he said for 1.50 apiece, which is hard to believe,  and of course the amish has no phone. I noticed one of our members Craig lives up near Richmond, maybe he might know something of this fellow.

Larry

Sorta hate to post this because I have been told by some of the experts in the past that I can't sharpen bands with such crude homemade equipment.

Order a rock from Suffolk and they will send the plans to make this sharpener.  They used to have a video that showed how to use it.  Definitely not for a full time sawyer as it is hard on the wrists but works good for the weekend guy.




Just a copy of the commercial setters.  It could use a couple of improvements but it gets the job done.




Guess the proof is how straight the band cuts.




Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Gary_B

Thanks for the pictures Larry, I think you did a fine job, building your sharpener and setter, and that log you sawed says it all. I would like to give it a try, building my own. When it comes to setters running 300.00 and it doesnt seem like alot involved. Ive got a Stanley hand saw setter that I was messing around with yesterday, and it comes close to the 10 degree set. I think the sharpener is going to be the hard one, getting the right angle, I wrote Suffolks yesterday about a plan for a sharpener, I havent had a reply yet. we will see

logwalker

Can you give an explanation of how you sharpen with this setup. For instance are you kissing the face and gullet at the same time. Are you able to maintain the original profile.  I have to talked Art at Timberwolf about this design and it is great to hear from someone who is using it. I am using a CatsClaw from Cooksaw, but a friend of mine is going to need something soon. LW
Let's all be careful out there tomorrow. Lt40hd, 22' Kenworth Flatbed rollback dump, MM45B Mitsubishi trackhoe, Clark5000lb Forklift, Kubota L2850 tractor

Larry

I'll try to explain and I think I'm doing it backwards from how Suffolk says to do it...can't remember for sure.

The band is aligned with the red stripe to insure consistent angles.  I start with the tooth tip on the left side of the stone.  Grind down the back side of the tooth, around the gullet, and end up on the face of the tooth.  The grindstone is dressed with a diamond to give the proper hook angle...most important.  You can duplicate any tooth profile by how you dress the stone.  I came up with my own profile where I put a very slight hook on the tooth face...and the automatic machine can't duplicate it.

Ok...I read this and don't know if I'm making sense so went out and took a pic...hopefully it will clear up what I'm trying to say.




Tried a water spray for a while on the hard grey rocks...worked but messy.  Started using the soft pink wheels from Suffolk...again works ok but expensive and they don't last long.  Using, I think the same wheel but getting them locally at a better price.

I can sharpen just as fast as a automatic machine...if my wrists don't give out.

I've used a Cooks sharpener a lot at a pallet mill, WM couple of times, and don't feel like I give up a thing other than its hard work doing it manually...but still a lot easier and faster than setting.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

logwalker

Thanks for the clarification Larry. Have you considered stacking two stones and dressing as one to do the whole profile in one kiss. I seems to me that it would work and be easier to maintain the hook angle and original profile. What do you think? LW
Let's all be careful out there tomorrow. Lt40hd, 22' Kenworth Flatbed rollback dump, MM45B Mitsubishi trackhoe, Clark5000lb Forklift, Kubota L2850 tractor

mike_van

I made one up similar to Larry's, I couldn't get good consistant results though. Cooks did a better job than I could. Just like Larry, my hands & wrists would ache so bad after 25 teeth, I had to quit. 196" blade, I was quitting a lot.  Before this summer, i'm either going to buy or build an autofeed model.
I was the smartest 16 year old I ever knew.

jpgreen

So on your jig Larry you have to hold the band in place at the proper angle, then push the blade into the stone just the right amount?.. or do you have to kind of push and slde it also?

Where can I find the Suffolk folks?


-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

Larry

Push and slide type movement.  The rock is grinding at all times.  Takes most guys about 15 minutes to learn the rhythm and after that it's automatic. 

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Flurida_BlackCreek

I set one up like Larry's and it work's fine. I use it on my 3/4 lennox blades and when I don't have time to run blades over to have them sharpened. I just use the white stones.
I'm happy anywhere south of the mason-dixon line.
-- cdb

highpockets

Larry do you have the information on the stone you are using? 
Louisiana Country boy
homemade mill, 20 h.p. Honda & 4 h.p. for hydraulics.  8 hydraulic circuits, loads, clamps, rotates, etc.

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