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Need 2x4 extension for slab holder

Started by Brad_bb, October 20, 2017, 10:06:16 PM

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Brad_bb

So I was thinking of building a slab holder to cut my slabs into firewood with the chainsaw.  So yesterday I was going by my elderly neighbors farm and he had been cleaning out his barn and set these folding "saw horses" out by the road for anyone to take.  Naturally I saw them as my potential slab holders.  They are well built from high grade SYP 2x4's and fold up via pivot bolts in the middle.
***The problem is...the 2x4's that stick up above the pivot point need to be about a foot longer to hold at least 4-6 slabs.  My though it to merely add slip-on extensions to those 2x4's.  I'm thinking a metal rectangular sleeve about 9 inches long.  A 12 inch piece of 2x4 will slip half way in the sleeve and get screwed in place, and that unit will just slip over the end of the saw horse 2x4.  It doesn't need to screw on.  By having 6 extensions for each sawhorse that just slip on and off, I don't have to change the saw horse at all and it will still fold up like it does now. 
***So is there metal tubing that is made to slip over a 2x4  (1.5x3.5 inside dimensions), either steel or aluminum, or a formed sheetmetal seamless tube like the red pic shown below?



 


 
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Ljohnsaw

That sounds too complicated and expensive.  What about scabbing a section of 1x4 on the "outside" face of each joint so that it does not interfere with folding.  A couple of lag bolts each and your done.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Gary_C

Quote from: Brad_bb on October 20, 2017, 10:06:16 PM
***So is there metal tubing that is made to slip over a 2x4  (1.5x3.5 inside dimensions), either steel or aluminum, or a formed sheetmetal seamless tube like the red pic shown below?


Not that I know of. You could always get 2x4 steel rectangular tubing with 3/16 or 1/4 inch wall but either is heavy 6.88-8.9 lbs per foot and expensive.

Better idea would be to close them up and redrill the pivot to about the center of the length and let it open further. But if you do that, you should use light chain or cable to limit the opening as the 2x4's used now probably will not stand up to the additional stress.
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

Brad_bb

I thought about changing the pivot point, but that would lower the slabs too much.  The height now is just perfect for chainsawing without bending.  If I permanently scab pieces on to the existing 2x4s, then it will be too long to fold up and fit neatly in thed of the truck on the floor.  I'm pretty sure the best solution is a removable/slip-on extension is the way to go in this case.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Peter Drouin

A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Savannahdan

You could use some 2X4 extensions that attach with bolts, lock washers and wingnuts.  When finished you could flip them to the down position for storage and transporting. You only need to do the outside 2x4s.
Husqvarna 3120XP, Makita DCS7901 Chainsaw, 30" & 56" Granberg Chain Saw Mill, Logosol M8 Farmers Mill

Brad_bb

Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Don P

There's a few in the barn, I'll check today.
Another thought, can you attach the extension in such a way that it can pivot upright for use and swing down for transport?

bigred1951

Why not just turn it upside down and put a 2x4 across what is the top now. So when you turn it won't be a saw horse anymore or fold up and it won't tip over.

Brad_bb

 Thanks Don! I'll have to think about the pivoting thing. It might get too complicated to try to keep them out of the way for transport.

Bigred1951, I don't want to flip them upside down, I think they would be too top-heavy with the slabs with the smaller bottom and more likely to tip over. I've studied it, and really I just need another 12 to 15 inches on the end of those 2x4's.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Peter Drouin

Quote from: Brad_bb on October 21, 2017, 07:39:13 AM
Steel studs will slip over a 2x4?



Last time I looked yes, But you might have to belt sand the wood on the 2x4s down some.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

bigred1951

I meant add a 2x4 across for stability so it couldn't tip over. Kind of like a table bottom

Don P

The steel studs I have measure 3.5" ID x 1.25" as opposed to 1.5" for a wood stud. there is about a 1/8"  turned in edge on the outer edges of the C, so you'd need a groove up the sides on one face. I'm no expert on steel studs, there may be other styles. I don't think this one would hold up to the kind of banging I would do while loading. It wouldn't take too much to do a little cutting and weld a tube out of the stuff though.

Brad_bb

I've never used steel studs but I think they are kind of thin gauge?  For my sleeves I think I would need 16 gauge minimum (0.060) and 12 gauge maximum (.120).
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Brad_bb

I'm going to go check out this deck rail material at Menards and see how strong it is.  If thick enough, it might be strong enough.


 
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Don P

Yeah, I'd guess the studs are more like 20-30 thou thick. The track, top and bottom plate, is a bit heavier but still not much. It is 3-5/8" id bottom and 1" straight sides.

Look at those sleeves with a cold morning and banging slabs in mind, are they going to be brittle?

WDH

I would slide a piece of schedule 40 PVC pipe over the 2x4's. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

gspren

 Check onlinemetals.com and search rectangular aluminum tubing. 2"x4" with a 1/4" wall.
Stihl 041, 044 & 261, Kubota 400 RTV, Kubota BX 2670, Ferris Zero turn

Brad_bb

Thanks for looking Don P.

WDH and gspren great suggestions.  The aluminum is a bit pricey, but if the deck sleeve and PVC don't workout, I'd consider investing  in it to do it right.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Wudman

How about some "boxed" extensions out of 3/4 plywood glued and screwed.  You could slip them on or off as needed.

Wudman
"You may tear down statues and burn buildings but you can't kill the spirit of patriots and when they've had enough this madness will end."
Charlie Daniels
July 4, 2020 (2 days before his death)

Hilltop366

I'd keep those saw horses the way they are and with your supply of slab wood and a hand full of spikes I would be inclined to make some vertical sided cribs to put the slab wood in right off the mill, make them so they can be moved with the fork lift when full to be cut later, then you only have to handle the slabs once before cutting in to firewood. If you find that the crib is too low to cut comfortably set the whole crib on some blocking before cutting.

Iwawoodwork

why not some plastic or pvc pipe, tubing that would slip over the 2x4, that way when you hit it with the saw chain it will not  need sharpening.

MikeON

Quote from: Hilltop366 on October 24, 2017, 12:20:33 PM
I'd keep those saw horses the way they are and with your supply of slab wood and a hand full of spikes I would be inclined to make some vertical sided cribs to put the slab wood in right off the mill, make them so they can be moved with the fork lift when full to be cut later, then you only have to handle the slabs once before cutting in to firewood. If you find that the crib is too low to cut comfortably set the whole crib on some blocking before cutting.

Kind of like this.  I run the chain saw through the double uprights to cut to correct length for my woodburner.  16 of these will do me for the winter.

Woodmizer LT40HD Super.  WM Single Blade Edger,  John Deere 4310 tractor, M35A2C Deuce and a Half truck

Hilltop366


Brad_bb

These buck horses are free.  I don't have to build anything.  I think they'll work.  My off bearer can load the slabs on (using the forklift).  We stack all the firewood from the slabs in his little trailer to take home for his wood stove.
It's a win win.  He gets paid to help make his own firewood, and I get it gone.

Plywood is not a bad idea, but I think the deck rail sleeve or the PVC or the Aluminum would be easy and the first two I think the slabs would slide on easier and not have a lip to get hung up on.  I haven't gotten over to Menards yet, maybe later today.  Been busy running material to the building site for the GC, and trying to arrange a log haul, and trying to finish a wood working project for my mom.  I don't have my mill at home right now and won't until middle of November.  But then we have a lot of milling to do!!!
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

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