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Pushing a manual mill?

Started by opticsguy, October 15, 2017, 09:57:44 AM

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opticsguy

I have and use a Timberking 1220 and am still impressed with the build quality and function of this machine. This is a manual mill and one feature I greatly enjoy is the cranking system for cutting, moving the mill through the wood, one arm operation with ease and great control.   I have many times gone to look at other mills on-line and in catalogs and what i see are the manual mills that need to be pushed through for cutting.  I have tried this with my saw and it seems tiring, awkward and little control. 

So, my question here is why?  Why would anyone want to physically push a mill through a log?  What am I missing?  Is it as tough as it seems to be?  Or am I simply lucky to have what I have? Or?

Thank you!
TK 1220 band mill,  1952 Ford F-2, 1925 Dodge touring, too many telescopes.

thecfarm

I have a Thomas and I would not really call it hard to push. The blade will kinda feed itself.It pushes real easy. In fact I have to lock it down when the wind is blowing or it will go back and forth on the rails all by itself.
And with no power assist,I just feel it's one less thing that will need repair. I like simple things.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

opticsguy

Thanks  thecfarm.   

My TK is not power assist, it simply has a hand crank that feeds the mill through the wood, very simple and has never had any problem.  After using this hand-crank system I really can not image pushing a mill, but i could be very wrong which was why I am asking. 

Thank you!
TK 1220 band mill,  1952 Ford F-2, 1925 Dodge touring, too many telescopes.

OffGrid973

On the lt-10 at points I setup the mill a tad downhill and it actually cuts on its own.  Thinking about catches and whatnot the manual gives easy way to back off , but I am interested in hearing more thoughts.

Into concrete pad now and can move with one finger when dialed in.
Your Fellow Woodworker,
- Off Grid

Treehack

The 1220 will push a little harder because When you push, it has the extra resistance of the crank mechenism.
TK 1220, 100+ acres of timber, strong left arm.

kelLOGg

If you're a big, young strong guy unlike me I think you could push all day but as you asked, even then, then who would want to? I bought a manual mill because it was cheaper and after a few months of pushing I added a wheelchair motor to do it for me.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

fishfighter

Quote from: kelLOGg on October 15, 2017, 01:43:14 PM
If you're a big, young strong guy unlike me I think you could push all day but as you asked, even then, then who would want to? I bought a manual mill because it was cheaper and after a few months of pushing I added a wheelchair motor to do it for me.
Bob

Added two to my Woodland mill. One for tracking the head and one to lift/lower the head. Did I really need to? No, but why not. ;D



 



 

;D

btulloh

Pushing the sawhead is the easiest part of my day.  :)
HM126

Delawhere Jack

Quote from: btulloh on October 15, 2017, 09:20:43 PM
Pushing the sawhead is the easiest part of my day.  :)

:D No kidding. It's loading and positioning the log that wipes you out!

(From a guy who briefly ran a Turner 100% manual sawmill.......BRIEFLY!!)



 

Downstream

I also wanted simplicity and cost advantages of manual push mill.  I came from chainsaw mill so any bandmill is easy compared to that.  Another item mentioned by others is that I put slight downhill slant to mill so pushing effort is minimal.  On the ez jr I actually have to hold back a little on the mill when I have a new blade on because it will pull itself into the log by itself due to design of blade angle.  Once again I second that the easiest part of my milling process is actually milling.  Material handling is the killer. 

The opposite question comes to me when I think about adding a pull through crank.  I would be afraid to lose the feel of the blade going the log as it hits knots or dulls.  The other issue with the crank in my mind is that when you add pulley/crank now you have to crank more times to move the same distance. 

both ways work and it comes down to preference/$.
EZ Boardwalk Jr,  Split Second Kinetic logsplitter, Granberg Alaskan Chainsaw Mill, Stihl 660 and 211, Logrite 60" cant hook, Dixie 32 Tongs

Magicman

You will still feel it when using a crank.  You will develop a touch.  I can feel it through the power feed on my sawmill.  You know the instant anything is encountered that slows the sawing speed.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

pinefeller

Quote from: thecfarm on October 15, 2017, 10:13:10 AM
I have a Thomas and I would not really call it hard to push. The blade will kinda feed itself.It pushes real easy. In fact I have to lock it down when the wind is blowing or it will go back and forth on the rails all by itself.
And with no power assist,I just feel it's one less thing that will need repair. I like simple things.
i bungee my carrige when im not using it because of this. (also a thomas) with a sharp band in clear wood, i can lock my throttle, give the carrige a little shove and it will easily slab of an 8' log. another benefit is knowing when the band is dull, if you have to push its time to swap bands... you can also slow down for knots to mitigate the inherent waving.
for those who say "it cannot be done!" please do so quietly so as not to disturb those who are doing it.

Ianab

As others have said, while pushing the mill by hand is manual work, but it's not hard work. The carriage is on rollers, so there is almost no resistance there, you can run my mill up and down the tracks with one finger if it's on level ground. When it's cutting you have a little more resistance, but you don't have to exert yourself or anything, You just slowly walk down the log, and back again.

Now there are swing blade mills with power feed (and setworks). They work great, and combined with a bigger engine and board drag-back they can really cut. But they are of course much more expensive, less portable and more things to go wrong. About the most serious fault my feed system can develop would be a stone in my boot  :D

And if you are cutting more boards, you actually end up working HARDER keeping up with the mill.  :D Humping and stacking boards is much harder work than pushing a small sawmill head around.
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

NZJake

My 2 cents (swingblades).

I've pushed manual mills on some big contract jobs over the years. 2 things get you...

Each transition in movement. Getting the carriage moving, stopping and returning the carriage.

The second thing is walking in sawdust all day. I liken it to walking in sand.

Stacking timber is hard work as it is let alone having to push a carriage 4km a day - that's really what your looking at when factoring a productive day.

So if you ask me I'm all for automation.
Wife says I woke up one morning half asleep uttering thin kerf and high production, I think I need a hobby other than milling?

thecfarm

pinefeller,did yours come with the transport clamps? Two ½ inch flat stock with 2 half inch bolts. I just put that on one side of the rail to hold mine in place.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

bandmiller2

Justification aside, most folks with manual mills didn't want to spend the money for power feed and hydraulics. For hobby mills pushing is fine. I do believe power turning is more important than power feed. We are issued but one back, take care of yours. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

sprucebunny

I hate having to crank a trailer up or down. Hurts my elbow. Definitely don't want to have to crank the mill.
I can't think of a simpler way to get it done than push it. Maybe an overhead rope system ? but with my luck the rope would break or sag and get sucked into the blade and that would be a mess  :D
MS193, MS192 and an 026  Weeding and Thinning. Gilbert Champion sawmill

thecfarm

bandmiller2,how right you are. I'm not going to spend $40,000 to cut $30,000 worth of lumber.  ;D   ???
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Savannahdan

When I had the Cooks MP-32 mill the key came out and I got the opportunity to really compare the difference between power assisted and manually pushing the blade through the log.  It seemed that I had a better feel of the blade cutting while in manual mode.  When I got time to find the key and fixed things I then noticed how nice it was to have the power system do the push and pull for me.  With the Lucas mill I have the head on a severe slant and really get a work out pulling the blade through the log.  That's fine since at my age and with grandkids that enjoy donuts I need the extra workout.  It won't keep me from cutting wood.
Husqvarna 3120XP, Makita DCS7901 Chainsaw, 30" & 56" Granberg Chain Saw Mill, Logosol M8 Farmers Mill

pinefeller

Quote from: thecfarm on October 16, 2017, 06:21:48 AM
pinefeller,did yours come with the transport clamps? Two ½ inch flat stock with 2 half inch bolts. I just put that on one side of the rail to hold mine in place.
i took those off cuz they were in the way of the trailer chassis i built. i use two really short 3inch or so ratchet straps when i transport wrapped around the frame/rear bunk/carriage and just a bungee for the yard.

honestly, the biggest drag with a manual mill for me, is no toe boards.....in the works
for those who say "it cannot be done!" please do so quietly so as not to disturb those who are doing it.

fishfighter

I agree 100% on a toe board. Next add on for my mill. ;D

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