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Log Cabin Log Peeler Ideas

Started by kantuckid, December 27, 2015, 04:44:37 PM

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kantuckid

I'm gonna build a 16' x 20', 6"thick x 6" plus-"D" log cabin which I'll saw on my LT15 mill.
The only "peeler" I've ever used is a draw knife (I have some good ones too and they've been used plenty!) but father time has his ways (shoulder surgery, CTS release,etc.) and I'm thinking how can I lessen the work of peeling some logs?
My first choice would be to pay a HS kid to peel and help build too but finding one to work is difficult to impossible these days-even in my poor area of E KY.
So far I see Log Wizard, a similar from Hud-Son called Log De-barker, Makita Beam planer, a Norway tool from eBay (it's like the wizard) and an eBay tool sold from Russia and again similar to the wizard.
Whichever I choose I don't want a buggered up looking log surface!!! If not possible to do a relatively smooth job with the machine powered versions, I'll just do as always and grunt it out...
Ideas???  Thanks!
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

GAB

kantuckid:
You write that you have an LT15, and if I am correct, WM makes a planer head attachment for that mill.  So does WM also make a rounded cutterhead where you could saw maybe 6" x 7" pieces and then round off one side to achieve the desired results.  May have to do it in two or three passes.
If such tooling is available, or can be acquired, then you can remove the bark with the mill and have somewhat uniform logs.
Wish you the best,
Gerald

W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

Gearbox

I saw a house built out of cants like you are planing . Only they sawed one side at a taper . when done it looked like lap sideing . Gearbox
A bunch of chainsaws a BT6870 processer , TC 5 International track skidder and not near enough time

starmac

I would imagine every different kind of wood is going to be different, but I watched a guy peeling spruce (at the right time of the year) and he used a drawknife to get started, then used a clam chovel of all things. He was pretty quick and the bark came off like a piece of carpet, all in one piece.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

Hackermatack

Peeling logs and softwood pulp used to be quite common around here. Starting in early summer when the trees enter the growth stage the sap or pitch is flowing. As long as they don't sit in the sun too long after being cut the bark will nearly fall off. I used to score the bark the entire length of the log with a chainsaw to make a starting point then use a peeling spud to remove the bark. It is a really enjoyable job as you quickly become covered with pitch and at that time of year the black gnats are ferocious. It is best to wear an old pair of bib overalls to protect your clothing and at the end of a good day you can just stand them in the corner. Having the logs up on some skids so they can be easily rolled is a big help and much easier on the back. A piece of old leaf spring has about the rite curve to make a good peeling spud a thin one from a light duty truck or car will work best, just cut it to a length you like and sharpen one and if you want to get fancy add some sort of handle to the other .   
Jonsered 2230, 590, 70E. Kioti DK 35 /w fransguard winch. Hudson Oscar 236

kantuckid

First, thanks for the replies.

Here I sit in a log house built from over 300- 16' hard yellow pine logs, each peeled inside and out (by yours truly) with a drawknife. I don't want a machined, i.e., planed finish on the outside, natural bark surface. At least not one that moves away from the "natural look" toward a planed surface. Also, I'm a tightwad codger and the expense of the machinery is hard to swallow, for a one shot deal.
Honestly speaking: I own more pairs of bibs(my attire when not in hiking shorts) than I know how many to say. Log position is likewise pretty familiar too. Been there, done that is all I can say. In KY, any pine that sits long enough for the bark to begin sloughing off has already become buggy. If cut when saps up they will hand peel easier and in larger pieces but a bad choice otherwise with pine for the bug thing. I have poor hearing but you can hear them chewing after a short storage period!

If you have actual experience with peeling logs using a wizard type tool I'd like to see the results?
I'd also appreciate hearing how about long to do a certain size log bark surface?
The other aspect is hearing anything as to which tools a better choice?

I'm quite aware of bark peeling spuds, shovels, etc. but after a full tear shoulder surgery 12/14 I look for "easier" when it's possible, thus this thread exploring Wizard tools. If it comes to doing them by hand the draw knife is the choice.
Another factor is my plan to use white oak for my early rounds of logs and it peels tough when saps down, as will be the case.
My interior surface will be band sawed, even, log on log, stack log construction.

*  A previous, older thread had comments r.e. the use of the long screws for stack log construction. I used 12" nails in my own home and pilot drilled, with a deeper hole for accommodation of logs settling and avoidance of the nail "holding a log", thus creating a gap issue. It seems that the use of a threaded screw will not allow log settling as above method-other than each log run settles in a group?
My pine supply is limited from three winter ice storms, so my plan is to use white oak lower runs, then pine as I have left, then switch to Yellow Poplar as I get the log runs closer to the overhang protection in upper runs. I've got plenty of oak & poplar (any size!) and the boards from the cant logs will furnish some of the other parts of the cabin.   
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

Dave Shepard

I would saw the three sides first. That will eliminate three quarters of the bark. Then I would rent a high capacity pressure washer for the remaining face. A log wizard type tool will really chew things up. The pressure washer is no fun task for bad shoulders either, but it's either that, or hand peeling.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

kantuckid

I own a nice Honda 6hp PW that I've had for about 10 years-it's rated @ 3500 & I have a PSI gauge on it too. Never used it on a log but sawed a few that I used a dbl bit axe on that might have needed it! If? it will remove bark- I dislike fact that once barks removed the wood surface is fuzzed, thus finishes and appearance are compromised. I do live in a 1980 log house that I've refinished several times and once did a total color change via a stripper. This summer I used sodium percarbonate and low pressure yet still had to sand the whole house. Big job on a 3,000+ sq ft log house!
I'm liking a drawknifes smoothness vs. PW idea.
Of course I'll saw the 3 sides first! Why not? Loose the weight , loose the unwanted sides!
My left shoulder works OK but when that side is fully extended, I handle less weight/unable to exert as much pressure(as in sanding, chain saw,drill motor,etc..) like when younger. 
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

Dave Shepard

I didn't have any fuzzing issues on white pine. I did find that it wasn't any faster than a bark spud, and much wetter, so I stopped power washing.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

kantuckid

I don't have any (mature but did plant a plot ~20 years back) white pine to use. I can see that white pine might peel that way as their bark "slips off" as compared to other pines,especially when younger trees involved. I have a couple of used wizards I can buy and might do that to use at sawmill if not for cabin.

The eBay seller from Siberia (small world huh?) replied to me that he will do $99 free ship on the "Wizard style" peeler he sells & he has great feedback on the tool. He also sells an adapter for Arbotech planer gizmo to use on chainsaw. I watched the Arbotech video today- neat tools, cost a bunch too.
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

red

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