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Author Topic: lBest blade  (Read 717 times)

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Offline johrich

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lBest blade
« on: October 07, 2017, 11:38:12 am »
Being new to cutting lumber I don't know which Woodmizer blade to use for different kinds of wood.  I was told to use the 10 degree blades for what was going to cut when I bought the saw.  I have mostly ash, oak and cedar.  I started cutting an old dried out oak that was about 48 in. in diameter and all I could get was 2 to 3 cuts before the blade went dull.  Any suggestions???

Offline LeeB

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Re: lBest blade
« Reply #1 on: October 07, 2017, 11:55:40 am »
Welcome johrich. You might get better response to this in the sawing and milling board.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, Ford 851 tractor, JD 3032 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton and 2005 1 ton Dodge 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Offline Grizzly

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Re: lBest blade
« Reply #2 on: October 07, 2017, 12:45:37 pm »
Welcome johrich!

I'm not much help. All I cut is spruce which is a soft fiber wood and very abrasive and I've found that my best blade is a Kasco 7*. Deep gullet is part of it. I've used Simmonds and Lennox as well and won't go back to Lennox but will use Simmonds again if I can't get Kasco. You will find some have strong opinions and some say the best blade is the one you like so read and enjoy.
2011 - Logmaster LM-2 / Chinese wheel loader
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Offline btulloh

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Re: lBest blade
« Reply #3 on: October 07, 2017, 01:25:52 pm »
Old dry oak is going to be hard on any blade, but you really should be using 7 degree or 4 degree for that.  Strip the bark off, at least where the blade is entering the cut (if it still has bark).  Bark can hold a lot of grit and dulls blades quickly.  With old dry oak, and 48" diameter, it's going to be tough going with any blade.

You should update your profile with the type of mill you're using also.  That makes it easier to provide helpful info. 

Stand by.  There'll be plenty of people chiming in on this.
HM126

Offline Coltbodi

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Re: lBest blade
« Reply #4 on: October 07, 2017, 01:40:35 pm »
I'm pretty new to milling myself and the best help I have gotten is from Cooks. They have a number of blades and Mrs. Marcey knows a lot about them all. She can get you pointed in the right direction.
If I can't fix it, I don't want it.
Timberking 1600 with lots of mods, a 65hp mahindra with a front end loader, a welding shop, and sugarcane mill from 1890 for making syrup

Offline Magicman

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Re: lBest blade
« Reply #5 on: October 07, 2017, 02:27:11 pm »
You have probably asked the ultimate impossible question to answer, but first you must answer a few questions such as your sawmill model and engine HP, etc.  "Oak" does not describe much without stating whether is was Red, White, Post, Water, Live, etc.

I have sawn over a million BF with 10 blades, but now I reserve them mostly for ERC & Poplar.  I use 4 blades for White Oak and knotty SYP, but I have successfully used them for other species as well.  7 Turbo's have fairly recently become my "go to" blade but it takes some engine HP to pull them.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Offline johrich

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Re: lBest blade
« Reply #6 on: October 08, 2017, 08:55:40 am »
I just bought a Woodmizer LT15 Wide.  I have a lot of white oak and ash to saw so maybe I need to get some 4 degree blades.  I know the 10 degree blades won't work.

Offline Magicman

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Re: lBest blade
« Reply #7 on: October 08, 2017, 09:17:29 am »
Remember too that the wider the cut the more unsupported blade you have in the log/cant and the more susceptible it becomes to "wave".  Proper blade guide alignment and sharp blades are a necessity.  Also if there is any buildup on the blade you can look for trouble.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Offline JB Griffin

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Re: lBest blade
« Reply #8 on: October 08, 2017, 10:28:50 am »
I would recommend 4deg blades. 10deg blades are useless in my opinion,  unless you are resawing 4-6in wide pine cants which the 10deg blades do good at. 7deg blades are great but take more hp, turbo 7s are better but requires more hp yet.
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Offline bandmiller2

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Re: lBest blade
« Reply #9 on: October 11, 2017, 06:55:06 am »
There is no best band only the one that works best for you. Try as many different ones as you can you will find one that gives you the best service. If you don't sharpen your own you may want to deal with co's with sharpening services. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece