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Looking for advice on clearing saw blades.

Started by ryan_5187, September 17, 2017, 09:08:22 AM

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ryan_5187

Hi, i recently bought a stihl fs 460 c-em clearing saw. I am clearing fence lines that have been grown up for several years. I found the blade that came with the saw to dull very fast, however, I did cut a few trees I probably should not have. I am looking for suggestions on what would work best with clearing sapplings. Any suggestions on blade patterns and brands would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

TKehl

Saplings in a fence row... I steer towards a small saw with short bar and cheap chain.  Figure I'm going to hit a lot of wire and rocks, so no sense tearing up an expensive chain.

Just realized this was a brush cutter.  I have an FS 250 with the triangle blade.  Great up to about maybe an inch.  After that, chainsaw.
In the long run, you make your own luck – good, bad, or indifferent. Loretta Lynn

joe_indi

I have found the chisel tooth blade the best cutting tool for small wood and woody stems.
With teeth like a saw chain, with depth gauges, you cant go wrong with this blade.
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/trimmers-and-brushcutters/trimmer-heads-and-blades/circularchisel/
It has a smooth operation compared to the saw blade, no kick outs or pull ins.
And unlike the three teeth brush knife there are no vibrations when cutting stems.
Sharpening is easy with a saw chain file
I copied this link of the chisel tooth in action, on one of the smallest Stihl brushcutters. With a FS 460 it will do even better
https://youtu.be/dkhyeGVXw-E

breederman

Together we got this !

John Mc

At the recommendation of Swamp Donkey, I tried a Maxi blade. It's a slightly different tooth profile than what Joe_Indi linked (the Stihl Chisel Tooth blade). I've never used the Stihl brand chisel tooth, but I have used one similar: the Husqvarna Scarlet blade.



I was happy with that until I tried the Maxi Blade (Oregon Part # 41-935, also sold by Husqvarna as in picture below). Right out of the box, it seemed like a more solid piece of steel than the Scarlet, and the slightly different tooth pattern does cut better:



One other difference I noted: it's easier to put the "set" in the tooth on the Scarlet blade using the special tooth setting tool (possibly because the scarlet is cheaper steel, probably also because the extra cutout in the gullet allows for easier flex). However, the Maxi style seems to hold the set better.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Woodcutter_Mo

  For smaller diameter (up to 3/4" or so) brush I like the -Stihl 3 tip blade, especially around fence rows because it will usually keep cutting fairly well after a light contact with fence wire or even a post. For larger diameter brush I use the chisel tooth blades. I keep several blades in my box when I'm out so I can just switch them out when I need to.
I also have several home made blades I use where there are alot of rocks and I don't want to mess up my better blades. I made them from steel tip 8-10" combination table saw blades that I bored the arbor out to 1". I have found that the carbide tip blades don't hold up for my uses, a rock or fence post will ruin the carbide tips and even if you remove the carbide, the steel is usually softer and dulls much faster than the all steel table saw type blades. Although the carbide tip blades are alot easier to bore the arbor because of the softer steel.
I use these on my FS90r, not exactly a clearing saw but same principal on a smaller less powerful scale.  ;)
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John Mc

I would not recommend using table saw blades. THey are noted rated for anywhere near the RPMs of a clearing saw.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

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