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Tractor tire chains on a timberjack???

Started by dustyhat, September 13, 2017, 12:32:06 PM

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dustyhat

We got a little 225 E skidder thats in need of some traction help the tires have a good 50% tread but its needing help, regular chains that we tryed were bear claws and the side chain hits and rubs on the blade cylinders same in the back,dont want to modify the wheels, so have any of you guys had luck with tractor chains on a skidder, being smaller chain diameter, i was just wondering if they would hold up besides the tractor chain is alot cheaper.

Bert

Im sure they would last a while. Id be willing to try it if I needed chains. I know a guy that put ring chains on a jack and they scratched the cylinder each time around until it blew. For some reason, mine clear fine. Might be cheaper to torch the edges down to clear them if you already have the chain-or replace just the side chains with a smaller diameter chain.

Saw you tomorrow!

Maine372

can you swap wheels side to side? maybe the wheels are like tractor wheels and you can swap them to adjust your width?

Spartan

thats what I was going to suggest, wheels might be reversible.
In my chain experience, you probably wont be happy with tractor style chains, unless you are maybe just plowing snow on roads.
They are cheaper for a reason, lower grade steel, less coverage of tire, etc...
You need HARD chain, or they will wear, stretch and break way too easy.  you also need some kind of cleat or stud on them.  Get on any kind of a hill with any debris and snow and you'll be finding a way to get the bear paws back on.

even skidder chain with cleats wore down to just chain links can get you stuck on something as simple as a 4" green downed tree.  You'll just sit and spin on it and eventually dig holes on any kind of slope, and thats without ice.

If your skidding logs, I recommend you fix the problem so you can get some decent chains on.

Neilo

Most timberjack wheels are reversible. Take off one wheel nut and look for the taper on the inside of the rim. Might need a needle or similar to feel if the steel of the rim goes all the way to the hub.

coxy

my buddy has a 225e also and did the same thing rubbed he went to a 1/2in trigg studded chain and works great now    the chains have been on there 5 years BUT HE MOSTLY ONLY LOGS IN THE WINTER and the chains are about 1/2 or a little more worn down

Maine logger88

I had ring chains with 5/8 side chain that rubbed on my blade cylinders when I got new chains I bought Canadian brand chains with 9/16 diamonds but 1/2 inch side chain and they don't rub. Got around 300 hours on them and still look new
79 TJ 225 81 JD 540B Husky and Jonsered saws

coxy

Quote from: Maine logger88 on September 14, 2017, 09:24:18 PM
I had ring chains with 5/8 side chain that rubbed on my blade cylinders when I got new chains I bought Canadian brand chains with 9/16 diamonds but 1/2 inch side chain and they don't rub. Got around 300 hours on them and still look new
do you have a name for the chains I was looking for 9/16 side chain and 5/8 stud  and was told they don't make the studs bigger than the side chain only side chain bigger than stud 

Maine logger88

Quote from: coxy on September 14, 2017, 09:33:23 PM
Quote from: Maine logger88 on September 14, 2017, 09:24:18 PM
I had ring chains with 5/8 side chain that rubbed on my blade cylinders when I got new chains I bought Canadian brand chains with 9/16 diamonds but 1/2 inch side chain and they don't rub. Got around 300 hours on them and still look new
do you have a name for the chains I was looking for 9/16 side chain and 5/8 stud  and was told they don't make the studs bigger than the side chain only side chain bigger than stud
Yeah I have a set of babecs on my 540 that have 5/8 stud and 9/16 side chain on my 540. The ones on my 225 are Canadian brand. They are both made here in Maine about an hour from my house. I can get some contact info if you would like. To me it makes sense cause the studs are what wears you never wear out side chain
79 TJ 225 81 JD 540B Husky and Jonsered saws

barbender

I don't have much experience with skidder chains, but I can speak from experience in forwarders. We have always ran whatever Ponsse supplies on the machines, and they're not much. They stretch quickly, and you have to keep a close eye on them- they'll slide around on the tire and sometimes come into contact with the axle and cut it. Not good. We tried a set of Nordic brand chains, and what a difference. They were a heavier guage, they're through hardened and guaranteed not to stretch for 5000 hours after the initial break in. They were so heavy we had to put them on using the same method as tracks (they weigh 500 pounds a piece), the other brand you could just lift on. If I was looking at chains that I wanted to last, I'd be looking at Nordics.
Too many irons in the fire

Corley5

I ran grader/heavy truck chains for a while on the Iron Mule I had.  They were 3/8".  They worked but had to be kept REALLY tight or the cross links would fall in between the tread bars. 
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

Crusarius

Is it possible to build a sacrificial guard over the ram instead of changing the chains? wouldn't take much to form a couple layers of 1/8" over it with light welds or even bolt on. Then as 1 layer wears replace it. the good news is with multiple layers it won't need to be attended to immediately when it does wear through.

I am assuming its only intermittent touching of the ram not constant?

Maine logger88

With 5/8 side chain on my 225 it was consistent I'm not sure as you could get another 1/8 in there
79 TJ 225 81 JD 540B Husky and Jonsered saws

coxy

 it will rub till the oil comes out then there's a big mess  :D

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