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Wood-Mizer LT40G18 converted to hydraulic

Started by mikeoverbey, July 02, 2017, 08:33:01 PM

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mikeoverbey

I did not use fuses just like I didn't use sequence valves in the turner/backstop circuit. What you are seeing are simple extensions to get the connector out the back of the "foot" to be able to connect to a 90 fitting and not have it make contact and break off during its rotation. 

It became a decision based on safety, amount of complication and expense.  Having worked around enough hydraulics and having hoses blow at times, I have a reasonable idea of the consequences.  On commercial airplanes we have them to prevent all fluid loss leaving the aircraft possibly uncontrollable-very useful.  On tractors, most don't have them although the loads are often way higher off the ground than the woodmizer possible causing tipping problems.  I decided the best thing would be not to stand in front of the log while loading.  In the event a hose blows, it'll probably be on the upstroke.  The downstroke fluid will provide some resistance as it lowers and I will lose fluid.  The expense of the fluid wouldn't pay for the fuses for me, as a hobby sawyer.  Sorry, that was long.

Back surgery has come a long way.   They used to cut you wide open, injuring all the muscle on the spine.  The surgeon did mine via two holes through the muscles, each 1.5" long.  They removed the disc and fused the two lumbar vertebrae with rods.  It was outpatient surgery and I walked out and went home.  I walked 400 yds that evening.  The next day I took two 1/2 mile walks, and just keeps getting easier.  I had been laying flat on the floor for the previous three weeks-literally.  I went off pain meds on Labor Day.  Its truly unbelievable.

Mike
Mike

Magicman

Thanks for the update on your back surgery, and hopefully you will continue to make your recovery.

The fuse question was just out of curiosity.  It is obvious that you are experienced and have done your homework.   smiley_thumbsup
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

RIMwood

Great job, super helpful! Thanks for sharing.
I think I might attempt it over the winter on my 2002 LT40. A little hesitant on cutting the frame, but I really want the 2 plane clamp.

Quote from: mikeoverbey on July 03, 2017, 04:04:50 PM
The toe boards will have a selector valve to operate either, since I needed 7 circuits, but this was 1/2 price of what it would have cost to put on a stack valve unit.
Do you have any more details on the selector valve? Which one where you got it.

Also, is there any chance you could share the drawings for the backstop arms?

mikeoverbey

I have the Prince MB 6 valve unit. http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Directional-Control-Valves/6-Spool-8-GPM-Prince-MB61BBBBBB5C1-DA-Valve-9-7866.axd  I bought one off eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/PRINCE-WOLVERINE-6-SPOOL-HYDRAULIC-VALVE-MB61BBBBBB5C1-8-GPM-3500-PSI-SAE-PORTS/251891501205?epid=0&hash=item3aa5e74895:g:5~YAAOSweW5VEacd .  I then added the joystick, an extra $80 but I love it.   I decided against the sequence valve in the loader-dog circuit.  I'm sure it's a good safety, but it's something else to fail and I can work them independently.

I sure would share whatever drawings I made/have. I didn't dimension the backstop/dog arms, just printed and traced with a plasma cutter. The critical dimension is centerline to centerline of the holes, and I do have those.  Your 2002 will probably have a different shape( a straighter arm) on the no. 2 dog, but again the holes are critical, shape is for clearance. You'll figure it out. Surprisingly the backstop linkages and clearances from obstructions underneath the bunks took the most planning.  You just have to see where things are located to run your tie rods, then adjust how far each arm is welded to each dog, off the main beam for reference.    I hope that is clear??

Mike
Mike

RIMwood

Thanks for the reply Mike. Not surprized that the backstop dog arms and linkage took the most planing. Maybe I should do the clamp and turner first and work the arms and linkage around them and what ever else is in the way. I was thinking your drawings for the arms might give me a starting point.

The joy stick is a great idea, I'm definitely going with that. I may even have two of them, one for the 2 plane clamp and one for the pineywoods turner. Woodmizer quoted me $1800 for their turner, that's more then the clamp, so I'm not using their turner.

As you mentioned the Prince MB 6 valve is half the cost of a stack valve, so I want to go with the MB valve but that leaves me one valve short. 2 for the clamp, 2 for the pineywoods turner, 1 for the back stops, 2 for the toe boards, don't need the log loader. I wasn't clear, but I was referring to the electric selector valve you used to switch between the front and rear toe boards. From the pictures it looks you mounted an electric switch on the right side of the MB valve. I'm assuming the switch is connected to some kind of solenoid diverter vale. Any details on where you got that and how you made the connection would be really helpful.

mikeoverbey

$1800 for the turner??  Sounds real high.  If it is the claw turner, it is real simple.  I was going to make it, but when WM told me like $400 for it, I bought it. I did t have one to take measurements from, and by the time I designed one, I felt it was money well spent. The two-plane was expensive at $1600, but when you see the size of steel and chromed rods, add the cylinders and design time, I also felt it was worth it.

I did the frame cut, clamp, then turner, then dogs,  I added the loader arms later. I did t think I would need them, but after loading logs and seeing how things go awry in an instant, not being able to see the fork tips, banging the frame, etc., I went ahead and built them. They can lift 4500 lbs, my tractor only 1500.

I haven't built the toe boards yet.  They're on the back burner,  I use a wedge, if needed, for the first two cuts right now. Figure out the thickness needed, hold log up against dogs with turner, lift log with 2-plane clamp, place wedge.  I have only done that a couple times, but have only sawed 2000 bdft or so. I will use a double selector valve from surplus center, unless I see a deal somewhere. I will mount it below the selector valves and it is a push, pull type. I turn my pump solenoid on with that simple switch mounted near the selector valve. I was going to do an automatic option operated by sawhead position, but found it unnecessary. I turn the pump on and do the log manipulation. No need for the pump to turn off everytime I release a lever. With an open center system, it pulls very few amps when a lever is not selected.  When done, I flip the switch off. Simple.
Mike

RIMwood

Ok now I understand, I just assumed you did the toe boards.
I like to cut a cant from top to bottom leaving the boards on the mill and then come in with forks and lift the cant bundle as one. With toe boards I could raise the bundle off the deck giving me room to maneuver the forks under the bundle. what I do now is put straps under the bundle and loop them over the forks. Eliminating the straps would just save a little time.

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