If you where setting up your mill for the first time...

[bmurphy96]

A year and a half ago I bought an old frick mill. It is still set up where it has been for the last forty years but I'm planning on building a pole barn for it next spring that will be housing this mill. The blade is 54" and the engine is an old semi engine.

I've been discussing this with the previous owner and thinking about it for a while. I wanted to get input from the forum about this as well about the new setup.

Right now he has the husk set in concrete. Somehow he has some kind of metal embedded into two concrete stands that are about a foot wide and ten or so feet long and that he says are buried seven feet into the ground.  The husk is then welded onto the metal in the concrete creating one solid structure. The track is actual railroad track and 70 feet long. It has concrete supports under it and again he has metal embedded into the concrete and then welded to the track.

I am pretty sure that's more than a little overkill so was wondering what others have done with this type of setup. Does it really need to go seven feet into the ground? If I didn't have to use concrete it would be terrific but i'm pretty sure i will need to do so. One "upgrade" I'm thinking of is that if I use concrete I'll embed j-bolts into it that i can then attache to the husk frame somehow instead of welding. I hate the idea of it actually being embedded and that should keep it more than stable enough.

Also, he used a drag chain to clean out sawdust. Minimally I'm going to shorten it up as it goes out 25 feet to a sawdust pile. I will be using a bucket on a tractor to move sawdust around so i really don't think it's need to go so far (or let such a large pile of sawdust build up). Is it even necessary to have the drag chain? I don't know if it's normal operation and on every mill like this or if its just something that some people use. What are people's thoughts on that? I would love to have one less piece to maintain.

thanks!!

Keith

[dgdrls]

Good thread to read, Mooseherder has done great work with nice documentation.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,38317.0.html
D

[bandmiller2]

Keith, Yes that's overkill unless its a heavy duty commercial mill with log turner. On the other hand that solid a foundation is "nice to have" as its the most important part of a circular mill. Depending how deep the frost goes in your neighborhood you want to get below it. I would rather see husk and rail bolted to the concrete than welded to embedded steel, as occasionally you need to shim to maintain level. My own mill used sections of utility poles set on concrete four feet down. I'am an old man and don't intend to be around forever so the posts could be cut below ground level and mill removed. Before you move the mill take many pictures and measurements around the husk. Good luck. Frank C.

[TKehl]

I'm guessing you don't own the place were the mill is.  Sounds like a great setup (other than lack of track adjustment) and would be great to build over top of where it is.

As to the chain, depends on how much you plan to cut.  For a hobby use, could get away without anything but a scoop shovel.  The more it's used, the handier it will seem.  A drag chain is pretty simple with minimal maintenance.  Then you can keep the tractor further from the mill, work faster, and avoid accidental contact. 

[Ron Wenrich]

It depends on what you're using for a floor.  The last production mill I worked on had a 12" pad that had I beam put in the concrete.  We then welded I beam uprights and braced them.  Nothing moved in the 10 yrs that I sawed.  But, that's overkill for a Frick.  We had a portable Jackson that had outriggers and sat on a concrete pad.  Never moved.  You could work something like that, as long as its under roof.

If you're going for dirt under your track, then you need to get below frostline.  When I put in a hand mill, I was down 3' for a footer.  SE Pa, and never had any frost heave.  You can use utility poles, like Frank.  Mine was on cinder blocks with a 4x6 bolted to the top for the track.  On the husk, we had some old 10x12 that tied the track and husk together.  I never had to shim my husk.  Do you have a wooden husk or steel?

You don't really need a drag chain for sawdust, if you're going to a blower.  I always liked drag chains.  Easy to fix, easy to build, and easy to drive.  You will need a dust pit of some type.  Otherwise, you'll have sawdust blowing out with the wind caused by the saw.  I ran mine from under the mill to a pole and returned it overhead and back down at the husk.  Enclosed the return in wood to keep things from hitting it.  You'll be able to keep months of sawing there.  Are you planning to use the dust, sell it, or dump it someplace?

[moodnacreek]

Your getting very good advice in the above posts. Two things that are the most important: sold foundation and the condition of the mandrel. After that it's just common sense [and a good saw]  I also like drag chain, but have to use a blower because I load sawdust in a covered silage wagon. Also drag chains take little power.

[bmurphy96]

Thanks for all the great input!  I'll consider this ... sounds like I need to keep the chain (although I want to shorten it a bit) and it does look like I don't need to put down as much concrete as he had last time.

I'm sure more questions will come up.

Thanks again!!

Keith

[Trapper John]

Keith,   Being able to adjust the foundation is important.  Our city hall in interior Alaska sits on steel piling 30' in the ground (permafrost).  Mostly it is stable but there are some piling that have moved!  About sawdust removal I am all for it.  I have a "hobby mill" that I have built to provide lumber for a log home project and the amount of sawdust has convinced me to start thinking of a removal system.