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Firewood gauge ideas?

Started by John Mc, August 26, 2017, 10:25:47 AM

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John Mc

OK, don't laugh ...

Some people can eyeball 16" when cutting firewood and it comes out looking like it was cut on a processor. Unfortunately, I'm not one of those people.

I've seen various gauges, gizmos and techniques over the years for measuring. Some attach to the saw (Quick Stix, Accu-Stick Pro, etc) some are used separately (Mingo Marker, measuring stick). I've not been impressed with any of them. The parts used separately are just another thing that I would lose in the woods. The attachments get in the way anytime you are doing anything other than carrying the saw - and if you detach them, it's again just another part to lose. Using the bar to measure gets old after a while, and slows things down.

The only thing I've seen that seemed handy was a little gizmo that the retired teacher of the forestry and natural resources program at a local career/tech ed center had. It was a short length of stiff wire that attached to the handle of his saw, down low on the left side. He could flip it out perpendicular to the bar when he was blocking up firewood rounds, and fold it back out of the way along the powerhead when not in use.

I thought that was rather handy, so I tired to make one myself (his was a commercially made unit, but is decades old and no longer made). I used a coat hanger and bent a short leg (about 1" long) at 90 degrees. I zip-tied that short leg to the saw handle in a way that let me flip the gauge in and out. I later added a few extra bends in the short leg that acted as detents to help hold the gauge snapped open or closed. I've had it on for a few years, and it definitely makes things easier when bucking firewood. My "detent" modifications, worked for a while, but before long the zip ties stretched and it stopped working.

I still find it helpful, but the coat hanger is getting mangled. I'm ready for version 2.0. I'm going to use a length of tempered wire this time, so it doesn't get mangled as easily. I'd like to come up with a better attachment method. I'm hoping someone here will have a good idea for something a bit more durable than a couple of zip ties. (I thought of a hose clamp. but not sure if I like the idea of the screw adjustment part hanging off the handle, catching my fingers. I may try it anyway.)

Here are a few pictures of version 1.0:

 


 


 
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

PNWRusty

That looks like it would work if making cuts from left to right, what if the cuts need to be made from right to left?

I must have a ruler built into my eyeball because consistency is about the same whether I use a measuring stick or not.

HolmenTree

I may be wrong but I think Stihl made a laser attachment for gunsighting the felling lay and for measuring.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

John Mc

You are right. It does work better left to right. When I'm cutting right to left, I just look where the end of the wire is while making one cut, to see where I'm going to put the saw for the next cut. Not quite as simple, but it works.

After I've been at it for a while, I get better at judging. I tend to get thrown off when I switch between large and small diameters. I guess the proportions change and throw me off. It's worse when I'm cutting with someone else: I end up with a whole bunch of 12" or 20" long rounds. The 12" I burn anyway. The 20" gets a bit tight in my woodstove.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

John Mc

Quote from: HolmenTree on August 26, 2017, 10:44:14 AM
I may be wrong but I think Stihl made a laser attachment for gunsighting the felling lay and for measuring.

Interesting concept, but a whole lot higher budget than I had in mind. Not much information on the web page for the laser sight It would be interesting to see a picture

Sighting the felling lay has not been an issue for me. I use the handle on my Jonsered saw, or the line on my Husky saws without much problem.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

PNWRusty

Quote from: HolmenTree on August 26, 2017, 10:44:14 AM
I may be wrong but I think Stihl made a laser attachment for gunsighting the felling lay and for measuring.

Hmmm...My dog goes spastic for lasers. If I had one of those I would have to leave him at home otherwise the tree would land right on him! Also, he's 32 inches long and I cut 16" rounds. He would probably end up cut neatly in half!  :'(

No lasers for this dog lover!

TKehl

Hmm... getting some ideas here... and my 3D printer will be here next week.......  Hmmm...
In the long run, you make your own luck – good, bad, or indifferent. Loretta Lynn

HolmenTree

Lasers are relatively cheap these days. I bought this $10 laser/level/tape measure about 5 years ago.

I wouldn't recommend attaching it to a saw with its suction cup,  but I'm sure a homemade holder attached to a low vibration area like the top handle would work.
Always got the measuring tape for backup on quality control.


 
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

John Mc

Quote from: TKehl on August 26, 2017, 12:14:12 PM
Hmm... getting some ideas here... and my 3D printer will be here next week.......  Hmmm...

I've already got a 3D printer. Just can't think of what I might print to help out with this.

BTW, what kind of 3D printer did you get?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

red

I have a four foot long stick with 16 inch chainsaw cuts into it . . 16 - 32 . . sometimes I make them 6 ft or 8ft long . . maybe called a story pole when used for siding on a shed ?
Honor the Fallen Thank the Living

upnut

I measure from the tip of the bar to whatever feature on the saw corresponds to the length needed(bar nut, tension screw, felling line, log dogs,etc.) for a reference point. Working left to right, eyeball it. Working right to left, scribe the wood with the tip of the saw. Makes another step moving the saw, but you have the marking/measuring unit in your hands anyway....Scott B.
I did not fall, there was a GRAVITY SURGE!

John Mc

Quote from: HolmenTree on August 26, 2017, 12:46:31 PM
Lasers are relatively cheap these days. I bought this $10 laser/level/tape measure about 5 years ago.

I just watched this video about using the Stihl laser guide:
Stihl Laser Guide. Interesting idea, but not interesting enough to get me to spend $130+ on it (plus I'm sure I'd manage to catch it on something or hit it with something and break it).

I guess the key to making something from a cheap laser pointer is figuring out how to only let it move in one plane (and making sure that plane is the correct one), then figuring a way to lock it down once it's rotated to the proper angle to measure 16".

I did mange to get in touch with the guy that had the commercially made wire gauge gadget. He no longer has it, but may have a lead on someone who does, so I can get a closer look at it.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

btulloh

I have 18 inch stick. Painted bright green. I always carry a hatchet as standard kit.  Work my way down the loog with stick and marking with the hatchet. Not sexy but works for me. I don't like going out with a lot of gadgets. File,hatchet,stick,wedges,gas,oil,three-way.  And saw.  Cant hook. Axe.  Helmet,gloves,water,folding chair,radio.  Sandwiches,snacks,soft drinks,spare saw,extra glasses,change of clothes. Simple.
HM126

John Mc

btulloh - I hear you on not wanting to carry a bunch of gadgets. I have enough to haul around as it is.

However, it was not wanting to carry extra things that prompted me to attach the wire, which has worked well for me so far, I just would like to improve the attachment method.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

btulloh

I like the wire idea if it could be refined a little bit.  It's like the stick only doesn't require the marking step.  If it had a quick and easy way to attach/detach.  Could be the best of both worlds.  Some good thinkers on the forum here.  Maybe somebody will come up with the refinement.  I'm already thinking . . .  Maybe fasten a small cap to the bar that would friction-fit a piece of fiberglass rod, or dowel.  Just need to make sure it doesn't interfere with normal use.  It would also be nice to use either side of the saw, even if required a different stick. 

I can't eyeball worth a toot.  My length changes as the diameter changes, like someone else mentioned. If eyeballed my way down a log thinking how exact I was sawing, and then found out I was off by six inches from the big end to the small end.  So much for my eyeballin'.
HM126

btulloh

Do you leave the wire on or just attach it for bucking?  Seems like it would hinder normal work if left attached.  I think I'd just use it to mark and then go back and buck.
HM126

John Mc

btulloh - there are people already selling the fiberglass rod system you describe. One that I have seen includes a special bar nut which replaced the original, and has a hole to hold the fiberglass rod. Others have a magnetic base that you stick to the bar (on either side).

One of the things I like about the wire idea, is that it does not need to be removed. It folds back and is out of the way for other operations. It was always with me, nothing to remember to bring. As I described in a previous post, it works best cutting left to right, but you can use it right to left, it just takes a tad more thought.

If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Woodcutter_Mo

 I draw marks on the bar for measuring with a permanent marker or a paint pen.

I like the laser idea, I have one for a gun that I
may experiment with.   :)

Also like the wire idea, would work well as long as it didn't get caught on stuff.
-WoodMizer LT25
-592XP full wrap, 372XP, 550XP, 455 Rancher, RedMax GZ3500T
-Fixer-uppers/projects:
024AV, MS260, MS361, MS460, Shindaiwa 488, 394XPG

John Mc

Quote from: btulloh on August 26, 2017, 10:04:56 PM
Do you leave the wire on or just attach it for bucking?  Seems like it would hinder normal work if left attached.  I think I'd just use it to mark and then go back and buck.

It stays on all the time. If you look at the second picture in my original post, you'll see the wire almost in its stowed position. When fully stowed, it lays right up against the body of the saw. In that position, it's never bee in the way for other work. One of the reasons I like this system, is I don't have to make one trip down the log to mark, and another to buck. I just line up the wire and cut the first time I walk down the length of the log (or cut most of the way through, if it's lying on the ground, then once I get to a spot where I can cut all the way through, I do so, then roll the log section to finish the partial cuts now that they are out of the dirt).
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

HolmenTree

Quote from: John Mc on August 26, 2017, 02:38:20 PM
Quote from: HolmenTree on August 26, 2017, 12:46:31 PM
Lasers are relatively cheap these days. I bought this $10 laser/level/tape measure about 5 years ago.

I just watched this video about using the Stihl laser guide:
Stihl Laser Guide. Interesting idea, but not interesting enough to get me to spend $130+ on it (plus I'm sure I'd manage to catch it on something or hit it with something and break it).
I forgot that Stihl laser was not only for a felling gunsight but also for bucking cut to length.
That video was from 2011.
Great idea and for $130 I'd buy it!
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

John Mc

Quote from: Woodcutter_Mo on August 26, 2017, 10:18:42 PM
I draw marks on the bar for measuring with a permanent marker or a paint pen.

I use the bar when I'm using one of my other saws that doesn't have this gadget on it. It helps that I have a 16" bar. Still, it's a bit of twisting every time you want to check a length, which slows me down and seems to break the "flow".
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

thecfarm

Just a thinking. Mount a strong magnet on the handle,than the wire would stick on the magnet. Remove the wire when not needed.
That is a good idea you have. From the tip of my saw to a certain place on my saw is 22 inches. BUT that requires the saw to be turned each time. A bother,I like your way.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

John Mc

The friend just remembered another detail: The gadget was attached to the handle by a tough "rubber band" sort of thing about 1" wide. It had two holes with plastic pins that fit into it (like a belt or the head strap on a non-ratcheting chainsaw helmet, except the strap was more rubbery & elastic than the chainsaw helmet).
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

grouch

Quote from: John Mc on August 26, 2017, 10:34:07 PM
Quote from: Woodcutter_Mo on August 26, 2017, 10:18:42 PM
I draw marks on the bar for measuring with a permanent marker or a paint pen.

I use the bar when I'm using one of my other saws that doesn't have this gadget on it. It helps that I have a 16" bar. Still, it's a bit of twisting every time you want to check a length, which slows me down and seems to break the "flow".

How wide is the body of your saw? The saw has lots of measuring devices already built in, they are just cleverly disguised as handles, knobs and other paraphernalia.
Find something to do that interests you.

Woodcutter_Mo

Quote from: John Mc on August 26, 2017, 10:34:07 PM
Quote from: Woodcutter_Mo on August 26, 2017, 10:18:42 PM
I draw marks on the bar for measuring with a permanent marker or a paint pen.

I use the bar when I'm using one of my other saws that doesn't have this gadget on it. It helps that I have a 16" bar. Still, it's a bit of twisting every time you want to check a length, which slows me down and seems to break the "flow".

That is true about alot of twisting. In my case I don't measure every cut. I usually just measure a few cuts here and there to keep my eye trained. I can eyeball 18" cuts pretty good but for some reason if I try to consistently cut 16" I have a little trouble. Especially on larger diameter logs.
-WoodMizer LT25
-592XP full wrap, 372XP, 550XP, 455 Rancher, RedMax GZ3500T
-Fixer-uppers/projects:
024AV, MS260, MS361, MS460, Shindaiwa 488, 394XPG

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