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How to cut this fallen tree safely?

Started by rmallaire, August 18, 2017, 07:30:58 AM

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rmallaire

Hello everyone
Here are some of the pictures:
https://forestryforum.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=8042

For the past two years, I've had a fallen silver maple in my backyard. It was hung up in another tree and last year it still produced leaves.  This year it fell down towards the ground more and did not produce leaves. I want to buck it up for firewood before it starts to rot on the ground. it  It sits in a riparian-type habitat. When it fell over (conditions may have finally become too wet?), it took the root system up with it. 

I am comfortable with chainsaws and equipment but I do not want to make a mistake when cutting this tree as I bear towards the stump portion.   

I am unsure where the pressures in the tree are located, as the stump is likely wanting to rotate back into its original upright position. I am looking for advice on which way to cut this near the stump, as I'm concerned the rootball will likely swing up and fall back into its previously natural state?

teakwood

I would make an undercut on each side until you feel the bar getting pinched, then do the uppercut. be very aware how much the cut opens or closes right or left, there you can read where the tensions are. be careful
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

g_man

What I THINK I would do is cut a good notch in the top where you would expect the compression to be. Like a felling notch. Reach over the top and make a vertical cut half way thru on the far side. Stick a wedge straight down in the top of the vertical cut. ( In the notch ) Then cut the remaining wood from the bottom up standing back away from the stump and the falling butt. Like you said, be ready for the stump to tip up after the butt falls, but it might go any where or stay put after sitting 2 years.

Don't claim to be an expert but looking at the picture I am guessing that this is what I would do.

gg

Bert

Throw a chain around the root ball to keep it from tipping on you! Its either gonna sit back down in the whole or fall towards the tree when you cut it loose.
Saw you tomorrow!

mike_belben

Start at the crown and whittle your way back.  When one end if the trunk is floating in the air youll known that the loads are simple ones with no hidden tension. 

Its easier to pound a wedge into a a kerf before you pinch a bar than it is to get a pinched saw free.

Praise The Lord

Peter Drouin

I would start at the top and work my way to the stump too.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

tawilson

I had one like that and waited till winter when the ground was froze so the stump wouldn't move.
Tom
2017 LT40HDG35 WIDE
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rmallaire

Thanks for the replies everyone.  I didn't consider using a wedge but its a great idea which I will do. I will start at the crown cutting off all of the branches and work my way towards the stump as Mike_Belben and Peter Drouin suggested.  G_man, thank you for the advise on the uppercut, wedge then undercut.   Teakwood, thanks for mentioning watching the cut you're making to know if it is closing, and if forces are increasing. Tawilson, that's a good idea to wait until winter, if all else fails I will do that.  I am doing my own logging job with a tractor and a dozer and I was hoping to get that area cleaned up (where the fallen tree is) before winter. 


luvmexfood

Had a tree blow over years ago on the drive leading up to our cabin. Didn't have a chainsaw with me so a few days later I went back with a saw. Made a few cuts on the limbs to give me access to the trunk. Cut the trunk and all the sudden about 10 ft of the trunk stood back up. Let me tell you it went fast. Nothing slow about it. Lesson learned.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

TKehl

If there were no leaves this spring, there's a good chance most of the spring is gone from the roots. 

Leaning to read tension requires practice.  Practice often requires extracting a pinched bar, soooo... a second saw would come in real handy.  I never go out without 2 saws anymore, sometimes 3.   ::)

I would:

1.  Cut some of the upper branches to see if it gives any indications on tension.
2.  Throw several branches on the ground under the length of the trunk so that it keeps it out of the dirt a few inches when it comes down.  Keeps your blade out of the dirt later.
3.  I might cut a couple of the exposed side roots on the ball to reduce the spring factor and get an indication for how the rest of the tree will behave.
4.  Top down until there is an indication that it wants to go back up or down to 15' of trunk or so.
5.  It is possible (but unlikely) the ball could come the rest of the way over.  I'd drop a big section (say 10') of the trunk off 4-5' above the root ball.  If still stable, you'll be good to chunk it the rest of the way up.  Personally I'd leave a few feet on the stump and plan to grub it out to make a cool rustic table base since it's halfway out already. 

Lots of ifs that would change that plan (like the wisdom above) so be safe and ask more questions as you get into it.  Delays outrank injuries.
In the long run, you make your own luck – good, bad, or indifferent. Loretta Lynn

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