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Tools: Ryobi 16-1/4" beam saw

Started by dbarron, August 07, 2017, 08:57:18 PM

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dbarron

Hello, I am new here. I have been looking around the forum, trying to learn a little about timber framing. I have a tool question, anyone have any experience with the Ryobi 16-1/4" beam saw? I it a decent saw? I have one spotted for $250, I may be able to pick it up a little cheaper. Thanks!


                                        Best regards, Dbarron

Brad_bb

I wasn't even aware they made one.  Every timberframer I know has a Makita including me.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Don P

I was hoping someone had a more recent review. I used one on one job in the early '90's. Seemed fine, basically a Makita knock off.

dbarron

Thanks guys for your comments, I found a really nice Makita, I am going to pick it up today. It's a little more expensive ($400), but I think it will be a good investment. I am hoping to get started soon!

thecfarm

dbarron,welcome to the forum.
When you are a building,take us along with some pictures.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Don P

On a used one I would check the table, make sure the adjustment wing screws are good, that it can be squared to the blade front and rear and that it is the same distance from the edge of table to blade front and rear. In other words that it hasn't been dropped and tweaked (always set it down nicely, never drop it, I put saws and other delicate tools on the floor, at their lowest potential fall distance).  Beyond that it wouldn't be a bad idea to pull a brush and see how much wear they have and shine a light down to the commutator to make sure it is not too badly scored. Look and sniff in the end at the windings, I suspect mine are toasty looking but my saw is of that early 90's vintage and has seen lots of use with nothing more than a couple of sets of brushes and new carbide blades.

logman

In my opinion a 10 1/4" saw is a better investment than a 16".  I use my 10" saw almost every day and only use my 16" for certain things. 
LT40HD, 12' ext, 5105 JD tractor, Genie GTH5519 telehandler
M&K Timber Works

CMI80

I'm also going to be starting a timber frame cabin. I have the timbers cut and will be cutting the joinery this winter.
Are you guys using the Makita chain mortiser ?
How hard is it find a good used one ?

Bruno of NH

If it's an older Royobi it's worth the $200
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

Don P

Used Makita chain mortisers are pretty scarce. Check that the depth stop on the casting is not broken, easy to do with a through mortise if you aren't ready for it to grab as it punches through the bottom of the timber. It would be pretty easy to sell a used one.

Jim_Rogers

We have repaired or replaced a broken depth stop on a Makita.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

logman

Quote from: Jim_Rogers on August 11, 2017, 04:03:39 PM
We have repaired or replaced a broken depth stop on a Makita.

Jim Rogers

I always lower the stop all the way to the bottom when doing thru mortises.
LT40HD, 12' ext, 5105 JD tractor, Genie GTH5519 telehandler
M&K Timber Works

Jim_Rogers

I honestly have never plunged all the way through with my chain mortiser, so that I don't risk breaking my depth stop.
I would plunge half way from each side.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Don P

It doesn't matter where the punch thru happens, when the chain first penetrates completely through, the left, returning side of the chain sucks the head down. If you are still only pushing down at that point the head slams down. Logman has the right way to not damage the depth stop, make sure it is dropped out of the way. They get broken when someone forgets to do that, then plunges through without anticipating that action when the chain first goes through a timber. In other words in the first day or two of ownership of the new machine :-\. It is a really lousy depth stop design. How did you repair it?

Jim_Rogers

I'll have to search my files for a photo of the repair tonight, I'm on my way out to a on site milling job this morning.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

dbarron

I wanted to post a few pictures, but I haven't figured out how to post them. What file format should I use? jpeg's don't seem to work.

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: dbarron on August 16, 2017, 09:27:16 PM
I wanted to post a few pictures, but I haven't figured out how to post them. What file format should I use? jpeg's don't seem to work.

.jpg is the format to use.  It is a multi-step process.  You can just upload pictures into your gallery for later use or upload them when making a post.  The latter has a trick to it.  When you start your post, look on the top left for the "Forestry Forum Gallery" and click on that.  A second window will open.  Go to your gallery (menu item) and start uploading pictures.  You can make folders to keep things organized.

When you want to include a picture in a post, you need to select that picture in that other window (Gallery) and below the picture you will see a "Insert Image In Post" button.  That will place the link to your picture in your "posting" window wherever the cursor is currently located in your post that you are writing.

Clear as mud? (old saying)
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

dbarron

Thanks ljohnsaw, it seems the file I thought was a jpeg was actually a png file.
Thanks to everyone for all the information, I picked up a nice used Makita beam saw off craigslist...

I picked it up for $400, it seems to be in excellent condition, I don't think I did too bad on the deal. I have used it a few times now, to square up the ends of a few 5X9 white oak beams,  and to cut some half-lap joints. I think it will work well for my project!

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