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filing chains

Started by southdakotasolo, August 30, 2017, 02:04:39 PM

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southdakotasolo

have read a lot of thought's on chain filing. we always hand filed, dad was better than me but always cut well. my question is should you file to the line or not. the .325 chain seems to me to get real thin at that point. has anyone had them brk. off. hanging around somewhere in the shop I have a 1/4 chain that has about 1/16 inch left in the gullet and dad said too thin  so never used it. now then having read about using canola oil as lubricant how about using soy oil. now I will tell you from experience(4 inch hose on tanker pump broke while unloading at a plant one day) you can not wash it out of your cloth's. ruined a new pair of jeans and wrangler shirt. tried different degreaser's etc., think it set it in the cloth worse. left them at goodwill. thankfully the plant had shower's or probably would have had to shave all my hair off. lol may take a bottle and experiment with various mix's of atf, motor oil and bar oil, kerosene, lucas transmission oil's, marvel mystery oil, lot of oils to play with. the reason I am thinking soy oil is that it must have it own tackifier. might work so well it will freeze up the chain to the bar. anyone have advice about rim sprocket's. ordered one for the 250 as it appears that the bar is wearing on one side of the kerf. cked. the bar for straight and level on strait edge and nothing wrong there but it appears that the bar is off a little from strait on the mounting but that cks. out straight too. who knows with plastic. so decided to get the rim sprocket and see if it will float enough to run more centered in the bar.  thks to all with ideas       

Woodcutter_Mo

 When my chains get down far enough that I question them, I just save them for stump chains.

As far as the bar wearing uneven, are you sure your chains are the correct? Example: running a .050" chain on a .058" bar will anve enough slack to cause problems though you would probably notice problems cutting as well. It's also possible that the bar groove is warn enough to let the chain lay over a little and making it wear uneven.
-WoodMizer LT25
-592XP full wrap, 372XP, 550XP, 455 Rancher, RedMax GZ3500T
-Fixer-uppers/projects:
024AV, MS260, MS361, MS460, Shindaiwa 488, 394XPG

southdakotasolo

woodcutter-mo      caliper'd all six chains we have to make sure something didn't get in the wrong box at the factory. all ck. out at .063+or- .001 so fine there. the bar measures .074, so is this ok or not. asked in another post but got no real definitive answer. the chain flops over about 1/8 in. either way. bar oils great so no problem there. but is that too much flop. cked the stihl site and no real answer there. probably will just get a new bar. thks . sds 

thecfarm

I sharpen mine down as far as I can. When the chain stops pulling through the wood,I am done with it.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

HolmenTree

Quote from: southdakotasolo on August 30, 2017, 03:32:29 PM
woodcutter-mo      caliper'd all six chains we have to make sure something didn't get in the wrong box at the factory. all ck. out at .063+or- .001 so fine there. the bar measures .074, so is this ok or not. asked in another post but got no real definitive answer. the chain flops over about 1/8 in. either way. bar oils great so no problem there. but is that too much flop. cked the stihl site and no real answer there. probably will just get a new bar. thks . sds
You definitely have a well worn laminated bar on your MS250. Not much you can do with it but buy another bar or try and fit a ES solid body bar on it with a replaceable .325 tip.  Your saws a 250 right?

Making a living with a saw since age 16.

southdakotasolo

holmen  yes it's the 250 e/z start with the e/z chain adjust. been a good saw. other than the piston skirt wearing out and breaking a few pieces off . the flywheel broke its cast in place key so replaced that with a regular fly wheel and starter.  replaced piston and run again. the fuel system sucks. too many hoses. other than that it has been a good saw,only 13 years old, should have went 20, right. I blame the piston wear on the 50 to one mix. used stihl oil all its life. you been at this longer than me, what's your opinion.   thk's in advance sds   

Ada Shaker

Some of my bars are a little worn but still work ok.



I use this one for cutting around knots in lumber.
If it hangs to the left, your likely to be a Husqvarna man.
If it hangs to the right, your likely to be a Stihl man.
Anything else is an uncomfortable compromise.
                             AND
Walking with one foot on either side of a barbed wire fence can become extremely uncomfortable at times.

PNWRusty

Quote from: southdakotasolo on August 30, 2017, 11:07:10 PM
I blame the piston wear on the 50 to one mix.

Here is a good site with photos for piston failure analysis:

http://www.madsens1.com/saw_piston_fail.htm

You will note that running the design fuel mix (50:1) is not listed as one of the failure modes. Piston damage was just as common, probably more so, when we ran a 16:1 fuel/oil mix.

Woodcutter_Mo

Quote from: southdakotasolo on August 30, 2017, 03:32:29 PM
woodcutter-mo      caliper'd all six chains we have to make sure something didn't get in the wrong box at the factory. all ck. out at .063+or- .001 so fine there. the bar measures .074, so is this ok or not. asked in another post but got no real definitive answer. the chain flops over about 1/8 in. either way. bar oils great so no problem there. but is that too much flop. cked the stihl site and no real answer there. probably will just get a new bar. thks . sds

For comparison I just measured the .058" bar on my 455  and it measures .062", so about .004" over with several years of cutting firewood for myself and my dad. I can flop the chain about 1/16" either way at normal tension.

So sounds like your bar has pretty significant wear at about .011" over.
-WoodMizer LT25
-592XP full wrap, 372XP, 550XP, 455 Rancher, RedMax GZ3500T
-Fixer-uppers/projects:
024AV, MS260, MS361, MS460, Shindaiwa 488, 394XPG

HolmenTree

Quote from: southdakotasolo on August 30, 2017, 11:07:10 PM
holmen  yes it's the 250 e/z start with the e/z chain adjust. been a good saw. other than the piston skirt wearing out and breaking a few pieces off . the flywheel broke its cast in place key so replaced that with a regular fly wheel and starter.  replaced piston and run again. the fuel system sucks. too many hoses. other than that it has been a good saw,only 13 years old, should have went 20, right. I blame the piston wear on the 50 to one mix. used stihl oil all its life. you been at this longer than me, what's your opinion.   thk's in advance sds   
A customer of mine brought out his MS250 for me to look at. He complained it was too hard to start, so I guess it wasn't the Ezstart model.
I made a few cuts with it and was very impressed with the little saw. I found nothing wrong with it and told him he just had to man up and pull harder on the rope. I recommended wearing Stihl antivibe gloves.

I always ran 40:1 in all my saws since day one. Always used Stihl Premium (Castrol Super2 stroke) and when Stihl Ultra full synthetic became available I've been running that at 40:1
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

southdakotasolo

PNWRusty,woodcuttermo,holmen  what's a good bar for dirty wood. the chains for the 250 are all the green one's and no problem's so far with them. may take the rakers down to .030 see if they will cut a little better. would it be a good idea to enlarge the oil hole in the bar when I get it as this wore out bar throws oil when running but it does smoke if in a big branch. I assume this is a sign of not enough oil getting on the bar. the 311 on the 30 incher I cut down left oil on the wood. the 250 never has so I think it needs more oil. cked. the out put by putting the bar on with out the chain on and it comes out  the hole on the bar but it doesn't really look as  if it is pumping more like it is ozzeing out. changed the filter and no reaj improvement. so should replace the pump too. holmen, does some one make a 16 inch replaceable nose bar. thought that myself but so far no luck finding one. 18 incher's and few of them. don't really want to change the e/z tighten chain set up. but its bars  are open on the sprocket end and the rest I have seen are all closed. the reason my bl got the 250 was the craftsman 18 inch was always giving trouble so gave up on it. it has an 18 inch bar and it, with some minor mods will work on the 250, so I have an 18 incher but would like to use the 16 as we have 4 new chains for it. am cheap don't want to hang them up. same with the craftsman chain's , have 12 or 13 good chains from the remmies and homelites we ran for yr's. all are 1/4 pitch and will have to splice in some links as some are 16 but no big deal. and with a rim sprocket for the 250 I can get a rim for 1/4 pitch so it will be a great deal. oh did I mention I make scotch men look as if they waste money. thks again sds   

HolmenTree

Yes you're spending lots for a Scotsman southdakotasolo.  :D
1/4" chain is expensive. If you want to run a 16" ES bar on a 3005 bar mount MS250 you'll need to get a 16" ES 3003 mount .325 bar for a MS260 with a wire clip adapter. Stihl sells those too.
If you don't mind extra cost just buy a 16" quarter tip Cannon .063 carver bar for your MS250 and you can run any pitch you want.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

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