iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

MC on live edge slabs

Started by xlogger, July 23, 2017, 03:28:20 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

xlogger

Wanted to check how others check mc on slabs or any lumber that you only can get the meter (delmhorst j 2000) on top slab? I've got a load of 9/4 poplar in kiln now, its still dripping some. The top slab show around 8% this morning but I can't get the meter on any one below it. I'm not sure how to make sure the middle ones are close to that also without unloading the kiln. Would sticking in the end of the slab work?
Just checking to see how others might do this?
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Joey Grimes

I think if it is still dripping water you have slabs wetter than 8% I would let it run till it quits getting water .
94 woodmizer lt40 HD kabota 5200 ford 4000 94 international 4700 flatbed and lots of woodworking tools.

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

The ends do not work unless they have two coats of AnchorSeal from the start of drying.  The edge will work with 2" insulated needles like Delmhorst makes.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

xlogger

It was dripping very slow last night so I cut off the DH and ran the heat up to 150°. This not the first time I could not test lower slabs so I'll check all the slabs when I unload them and maybe get a better idea for the future.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

When you run the heat up, it is best to remove the dh unit, as the seals do not like the heat in the simple dh units.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

xlogger

I've got a Nyle, kind of hard removing it.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

YellowHammer

Quote from: xlogger on July 24, 2017, 05:00:25 AM
It was dripping very slow last night so I cut off the DH and ran the heat up to 150°. This not the first time I could not test lower slabs so I'll check all the slabs when I unload them and maybe get a better idea for the future.
That's the way, test the slabs as you unpack, as well as the same with 4/4.  Then get an idea of the drying pattern of or wet spots in your kiln.  All the boards should be within a certain range.  If not, try to make adjustments to the kiln baffling, airflow, or other to get them there for future loads.  Most times, the dryer boards are toward the top, so unsticker and test, and when you hit a unacceptable moisture level, put the remaining pack back and cook it some more.

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

xlogger

I took them out today and top one was 8°. The next 3 was between 17-22° so back into the kiln. It's dripping real slow, so I'll give it a few days and see how they do. Next time I stack heavy slabs I'm going to try loading them so I can my mm on middle ones.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Kbeitz

Next build... Lumber rotisserie...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Sounds like an air flow issue
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Thank You Sponsors!