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REALLY small logs with a swingblade

Started by Ianab, July 17, 2017, 04:57:36 AM

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Ianab

Topic came up a few days back about how to handle stupidly small logs with a swing blade mill.

Looking through the cellphone I found these of how I do it.





Now this is for logs the size of fence posts that you can pick up and screw to a 12x2 that's heavy enough to stay in place as you saw them. Drill and countersink some holes in a 1x1 and just screw that to the "log" and your deck.

It's NOT for production  :D. But I did make a nice little live edge shelf for Lil from that alder, and that was worth some brownie points. So if you want to saw (or resaw) something small, for whatever reason, it can be done. Once you get the "deck" set up, it only takes a minute to screw down a new "log", so if you have a hand full of logs, you can motor through them.  But as each board might be 1 bd ft, don't charge it out by the bd/ft rate  :D
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Savannahdan

Did you have much side movement from the sawhorses?  Glad you posted this because I was going to do something similar by first screwing down the larger 2X board to my bunks but one of my SILs took my last 2X for a job he was working on and hasn't replaced it.  Thanks for sharing.
Husqvarna 3120XP, Makita DCS7901 Chainsaw, 30" & 56" Granberg Chain Saw Mill, Logosol M8 Farmers Mill

MbfVA

 Very interesting.  Tell us why you used the sawhorses instead of simply placing the 2 x 12 across your bearers--did the extra height make it easier to deal with the small log?

One of the first things I sawed was a big 2 x 10 out of oak (an otherwise junk log I practiced on) , might be long enough to use, so I may try that.
www.ordinary.com (really)

Ianab

Just convenience. I'm set up up in the driveway at home to do those, not out in the field, so it was easier to just use the saw horses, have everything aligned and work at waist height, rather than ankle height.

If I'm out in the field, I would set up on top of a 1/2 sawn log, which is of course exactly aligned with the mill, even if the bunks are uneven to  correct taper.
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

runmca

When you use the 1/2 sawn log, do you still drill the 1x1 into that or do you leave an edge so the log won't roll sideways? Thanks for the pictures

Ianab

With stuff that small I'd probably screw it down. Last time we did that trick was with some small cedar logs, cutting 4x4s. They had enough weight to stay in place against the step in the log, and a wooden wedge to stop them rolling away.  The way the blade rotates it tends to try and spit the "log" out the front (away from you) if it's to light, hence the "end dogs" on those little pieces.

Sitting on top of a log you might get away with just the stop screwed to the far end, to stop everything getting pushed off the far end?
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

derhntr

I normally cut trees that size with 3 cuts with chainsaw. Then throw in firewood pile.  :D

Could not resist.
2006 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 with command control (I hate walking in sawdust)
US Army National Guard (RET) SFC

Ianab

Quote from: derhntr on July 19, 2017, 12:01:46 PM
I normally cut trees that size with 3 cuts with chainsaw. Then throw in firewood pile.  :D

Could not resist.

That's my usual method as well :D

Just showing how they can be sawn if you are determined enough. Something of sentimental value maybe?
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

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