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Author Topic: Where do I find the procedure for drive belt replacement on 06 LT40HDG28??  (Read 1142 times)

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Offline derhntr

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I was sawing tonight when the drive belt started squealing :o I pulled the cover and the V belt is split. I cant find what I have to do in the manual for replacement. A FF search gave no results. Google gave me a old 2014 post that was not much help. Youtube was no help either. I have the 28 HP gas motor. Anyone have link to a video or printed material? Or any tips of helpful information.

Thank you
2006 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 with command control (I hate walking in sawdust)
US Army National Guard (RET) SFC

Offline derhntr

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OK it was not that hard to get the belt off. 1. remove top and both side belt covers. 2. remove brake strap. 3. cycle the auto clutch to get clearance for brake strap bolts and clearance to get belt off. Lets hope putting it back together is as easy.
2006 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 with command control (I hate walking in sawdust)
US Army National Guard (RET) SFC

Offline John S

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I did mine (with advice from Marty Parsons) about 6 weeks ago.  Check drive belt tension when you are finished (mine is 7/16" deflection at 14 lbs.)
LT40HDG28

Offline paul case

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It may not be ideal but I have sawn several thousand feet with the belt worn down through the middle.

I just gotta use all of it up ya know. just keep it tight.

PC
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

Offline derhntr

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I have done a fair amount of wrenching in my life time but always like to have the manual handy for references. Sometime things only come apart a special way. I should have pulled covers before posting.   
2006 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 with command control (I hate walking in sawdust)
US Army National Guard (RET) SFC

Offline 4x4American

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I know of a pretty solid method that can be done in just two steps:


Step 1: Take old belt off.
Step 2: Put new belt on.






 ;D


lol lol


I just had to...I an curious as well cause it's something that I'm gonna have to do soon Ima figuring
Boy, back in my day..

Offline paul case

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Just like derhntr said, it is just that simple.

PC
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

Offline MartyParsons

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Hello
Remove cover under water bottle,under engine, on top of belt cover front of engine. Remove adjustment of linkage to shortest possible length.
Remove brake band top two 3/8 bolts bottom bolt. It is helpful to make location with marker, this is an adjustment point so this may not be the location when new belt is adjusted properly.
Remove drive belt. Reverse procedure ,engage drive with out engine running adjust belt tension with proper tools. Specs are found with procedure in the auto clutch manual.
Check throttle cable adjustment,brake adjustment and set as needed.
Ask more questions.
Marty
A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty. -Winston Churchill

Offline derhntr

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Thanks Marty.

Pretty much much the way I did it.
2006 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 with command control (I hate walking in sawdust)
US Army National Guard (RET) SFC

Offline Chuck White

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I replaced the drive belt on my mill back in '09 and when the replacement came on the UPS truck, it was two (2) belts, then a few years later the replacement was a double belt!

So..... if the belt is split down the middle, it can still be used!

NOTE:  The bolt on the inboard end of the top belt cover goes through the threaded hole on the mast and lines up between the two halves of the belt.  Suggest you put spacers (like a second nut) on the bolt before installing!  If this bolt goes full length through the hole, it is quite likely that it will split (separate) the two haves of the new one-piece belt!
~Chuck~
Retired USAF (1989), Retired School Bus Driver (2012), and now a Mobile Sawyer
1995 Wood-Mizer LT40HDG2425 Kohler - Shingle & LapSider
Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener, 4-foot Logrite cant hook.
Basic mechanical skills are all that's required to maintain the Wood-Mizer.
I LOVE MY SAWMILL

Offline Crossroads

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Although it is possible to run the belt after it has split, you shouldn't. The belt is worn out and riding to deep in the sheave, that's why the belt split. If you continue to run a worn out belt, it will wear the the sheave. Then when you do replace the belts, it will ride to deep in the worn out sheave and split the new belt. Personally, I wouldn't be afraid to finish the day or maybe even the week on a split belt, but I'd have a plan to replace it sooner than later.
2017 LT40 wide

Offline Chuck White

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Although it is possible to run the belt after it has split, you shouldn't. The belt is worn out and riding to deep in the sheave, that's why the belt split. If you continue to run a worn out belt, it will wear the the sheave. Then when you do replace the belts, it will ride to deep in the worn out sheave and split the new belt. Personally, I wouldn't be afraid to finish the day or maybe even the week on a split belt, but I'd have a plan to replace it sooner than later.

Not necessarily!  Like I mentioned in my earlier post, if the belt gets cut by that protruding bolt, the belt itself can still be new, and useable!

The drive belts used to come in matched sets of two (2) belts, then they started becoming available in the double belt variety!
~Chuck~
Retired USAF (1989), Retired School Bus Driver (2012), and now a Mobile Sawyer
1995 Wood-Mizer LT40HDG2425 Kohler - Shingle & LapSider
Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener, 4-foot Logrite cant hook.
Basic mechanical skills are all that's required to maintain the Wood-Mizer.
I LOVE MY SAWMILL

Offline Crossroads

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Although it is possible to run the belt after it has split, you shouldn't. The belt is worn out and riding to deep in the sheave, that's why the belt split. If you continue to run a worn out belt, it will wear the the sheave. Then when you do replace the belts, it will ride to deep in the worn out sheave and split the new belt. Personally, I wouldn't be afraid to finish the day or maybe even the week on a split belt, but I'd have a plan to replace it sooner than later.

Not necessarily!  Like I mentioned in my earlier post, if the belt gets cut by that protruding bolt, the belt itself can still be new, and useable!

The drive belts used to come in matched sets of two (2) belts, then they started becoming available in the double belt variety!
I think it's pretty obvious I was talking about belts that are separated from being worn out, hence the comment about riding to deep in the sheave.
2017 LT40 wide

Offline Ga Mtn Man

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A good while back I noticed a light-colored wear line had developed on the outside of my mills drive belt.  A little investigation revealed that it was caused by the same bolt !!Chuck!! is referring to.  My fix was to shorten the bolt but I'm perplexed as to why after all these years WM hasn't corrected this issue. ???   
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2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Offline John S

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Same situation here so I did grind down the length of that bolt.
LT40HDG28

Offline 4x4American

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I have the line in my belt too...never looked into it though, as I thought it was from a broken blade that found its way up to it...I'll have to check mine
Boy, back in my day..

Offline derhntr

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Got my new belt installed. However it is way to tight. Book says to adjust from bottom.WM tech video say to adjust from top. Which is right? Also unable to find a belt tension gage local. Looks like I will have to get one from WM.
2006 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 with command control (I hate walking in sawdust)
US Army National Guard (RET) SFC

Offline 4x4American

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Got my new belt installed. However it is way to tight. Book says to adjust from bottom.WM tech video say to adjust from top. Which is right? Also unable to find a belt tension gage local. Looks like I will have to get one from WM.


I had the same issue, I asked a WM tech the same question and he said it don't matter which end you adjust it from as long as you have the right tension and the brake takes a full load. 
Boy, back in my day..

Offline derhntr

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Thank You 4x4 8)
2006 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 with command control (I hate walking in sawdust)
US Army National Guard (RET) SFC

Offline derhntr

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Well I received my belt tension Gage yesterday from WM. I spent 4 hours trying to get proper tension 7/16 deflection at 14 LB. Belt was just to tight totally ran out of adjustment best I could get was 20 lb with 7/16 deflection. Turn buckle is totally bottomed out.

Today I called WM tech support. Tech said that 20 lbs was a good number to break belt in with. Just run it and re-check after 4 hr or if I get wavy cut before that.

Tech did say he has never seen turn buckle bottomed out before an normally new belts are to loose when first installed.

Still don't have break strap adjusted to my liking. Blade does not stop as quickly as I think it should or the way it did in past.

Will tinker with that again tomorrow.  Seemes to be real touchy a getting it set right. 

This was the first time I have ever had to use the tech support line. It was a pleasure working with the tech.
 
2006 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 with command control (I hate walking in sawdust)
US Army National Guard (RET) SFC