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Heart Pine Farm Table with Breadboard

Started by WDH, July 07, 2017, 03:33:09 PM

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WDH

Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

flatrock58

He wanted them 1 1/4".  I told him to cut them 1 3/4" and plane to 1 1/2".  We settled on 1 5/8".  Did you have problems with the rosin or did you set it in the kiln?
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WDH

Set it in the kiln.  1 & 5/8" rough off the mill is a good thickness for farm tables. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

WDH

Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Magicman

Hey Hey Hey, that's slick and to think that I saw it when it was only boards.  Someone is gonna be very happy!
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Stoneyacrefarm

Nice table!!
What do I have to do to be adopted into the family?  :D
It would go well in the new log cabin.
Work hard. Be rewarded.

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Now thats very pretty.....in my book.   8)
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

grouch

Beautiful table and work!

I've never heard of or seen that funnel trick before -- always worried about glue getting where it shouldn't. Have to try that one. Thanks!

I'm guessing the offset groove in the breadboard ends doesn't cause any trouble with expansion and contraction because the ledge it pushes against is equal above and below the groove. All the extra thickness is floating in space?
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Larry

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

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thecfarm

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caveman

Danny, that was a beautiful table you built a few years ago.  John and I are sitting on a lot of longleaf pine.  Quite a bit is heart pine.  The pic I sent you earlier today and that will be posted here today was of some boards sold by the local lumber store that we supplied.  The proprietors agreed that it was beautiful but when we dropped off our small load of cedar, spalted sweetgum, maple, and red oak this morning we left with the rest of our/their inventory of heart pine.  They spent an inordinate amount of time cleaning their planer after surfacing it for their customer.

How do you process this wood and finish to get the best results?  I assume you dry it and set the pitch but then what?  I would like to turn some of this into something decent and hate to see it go into pallets or fence boards.

 
Caveman

SwampDonkey

Yes, I missed it the first round to. It is a gorgeous table. Good and rugged to.

So that we get an idea of heft of the table, how many men to move it? ;)

You have some nice pine there Cavemen, never dealt with southern pine myself. But red pine is pretty heavy, we have a red pine pedestal table. Red pine is heavier than spruce.
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ellmoe

Quote from: caveman on May 07, 2020, 06:21:06 PM
  They spent an inordinate amount of time cleaning their planer after surfacing it for their customer.

How do you process this wood and finish to get the best results?  I assume you dry it and set the pitch but then what? 
Probably didn't get the lumber hot enough for long enough. That was my experience when I first dried heavy pitch heart pine.

Thirty plus years in the sawmill/millwork business. A sore back and arthritic fingers to prove it!

WDH

I dried and set the pitch at 150 degrees for 24 hours.  It was not too bad on the planer, but I did not plane but about 50 bf for the table, so it was relatively easy to clean the rollers and the planer bed after I was done.  I planed 300 bf once and it was a hair pulling experience because of the pitch gumming up the planer.

Your board in the pic is about as pitch soaked as it gets.  The good thing is that it will last forever.  The bad thing is that it is difficult to process because of the solid pitch. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Don P

Wow, that wood is halfway to being cast in amber :D. I've been planing a bunch of white pine lately. It's less common but there is some really pitchy fatwood near injuries. I've done lots of yellow as well over the years. If the pitch is set well it isn't bad. What I'm doing right now is miscuts off the sawmill. They get to dry a day or three and go through the planer green. The pitch is set to oh about 65° right now :D. That gums everything up.

When there is a lot of resin it takes more time at elevated temperature to evaporate all of the parts of the resin that can be volatilized up to that temperature. There is a whole range of different volatiles in pitch and you are boiling off different ones at different temps. When all the volatiles that can be driven off at a temperature have been boiled off the pitch is "set" to that temperature. It will not flow as long as the wood sees temperatures cooler than the setting temp. Remember millwork like a windowsill in the sun might get pretty warm in service. Your tea kettle that needs to be boiled dry is very full in that fat wood. A long time in the hot box wouldn't be a bad idea.

caveman

Mark and DonP, we ran that pine through the hot box twice for a total of over five days at temperatures above 150°. The floor of the hot box is still covered with the hardened resin that cooked out of those boards.  The other ones that we did not plane have hardened resin/amber balls all over their surfaces.

We cut a couple of really nice heart pine butt logs into 2x4's this morning to make a rack to stack dried and sterilized wood.  Thank you to all who have given us advise over the years.
Caveman

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