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Nyle power vent

Started by xlogger, July 04, 2017, 08:33:53 PM

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xlogger

Finally got around to ordering the power vents for my kiln. With all this hot weather the temp raises real fast in the kiln. Just something to make life a little easier.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Joey Grimes

Nice I like the power vent on our kiln .
94 woodmizer lt40 HD kabota 5200 ford 4000 94 international 4700 flatbed and lots of woodworking tools.

WDH

Does it keep the dry bulb temp at the set point?
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Dan_Shade

I made a mistake with mine once, and trashed a load of white oak:

I raised the temp of the kiln for the second phase of the cycle, but forgot to raise the vent temperature (mine is an older unit and the kiln and fan are set independently).

They work well, but be careful.
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

xlogger

Quote from: WDH on July 05, 2017, 07:47:23 AM
Does it keep the dry bulb temp at the set point?
That's what I'm told, maybe Stan will get in on this, he is the expert.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

K-Guy

Yes Ricky
The new controls have the power vent wired to it and the should maintain the temp within about a degree.
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

xlogger

Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

YellowHammer

I've had good luck with the power vents, (the set comes with one vent with a fan, the other completely passive) and they hold temp pretty well.  However, the passive side will stick closed every now and then, and needs to watched and oiled occasionally, or an overtemp will occur. Also, even though it's passive, it is slightly off balance, and doesn't open as much as it could for the airflow coming through it.  So I added some lead weight to the outside center tie bar, (which ties all the louvers together) to act as a counter balance, and have made the passive vent much more neutral, and it responds much better to the demanded airflow of the power exhaust vent. 

Having one kiln with manual vents, and another one with automatic, I'd go with the automatic every time.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

WDH

Stan,

Can I add the powered vent kit to my L53 purchased in October 2013?  The display on the control unit looks like it is set up for the powered vent. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

K-Guy

You tricked me Ricky.LOL

WDH posted" Can I add the powered vent kit to my L53 purchased in October 2013?  The display on the control unit looks like it is set up for the powered vent. "

Yes but if you have a unit with the temperature/Timer control, you have to add a thermostat for it.
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

xlogger

Quote from: K-Guy on July 07, 2017, 01:25:34 PM
You tricked me Ricky.LOL

WDH posted" Can I add the powered vent kit to my L53 purchased in October 2013?  The display on the control unit looks like it is set up for the powered vent. "

Yes but if you have a unit with the temperature/Timer control, you have to add a thermostat for it.
I know I did. I knew you would see this post and response. 8)
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

WDH

My unit has a dry and wet bulb temperature that is set.  No timer. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

K-Guy

Quote from: WDH on July 07, 2017, 03:59:24 PM
My unit has a dry and wet bulb temperature that is set.  No timer.

Then It's $300.00 plus shipping. :)
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

xlogger

Got it in today with only two phone calls to Stan. Took most of the day mainly because the vent hole we made when building the kiln was about ½" too small on the upper vent on the door. I had to take more than I wanted to take apart. Give it a quick test run and it seems to work fine. Stan also directed me on a better connection for running the heat and the DH at the same time. I can do it on my kiln (53 series) because I heat my kiln from the OWB. My heat strips are disconnected on the Nyle.

Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Furu

Pictures, especially of the output side. 
Where was it too small that you had to fix? 
More precisely what is the size that is required to fit the powered vent? 
I will probably eventually get the power vent but right know I have the standard and I wonder if it will fit the existing opening.

xlogger

I'll get a picture later for you but the power vent mounts on the inside of the kiln covering that vent. On my upper vent you need a opening at least 10 1/2" for that. When we built my kiln I made the holes to fit the vent supplied and had to take them out of the door and resize it.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

xlogger

Quote from: Furu on July 14, 2017, 07:06:30 PM
Pictures, especially of the output side. 
Where was it too small that you had to fix? 
More precisely what is the size that is required to fit the powered vent? 
I will probably eventually get the power vent but right know I have the standard and I wonder if it will fit the existing opening.


 
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Furu

If I remember correctly you have both a L-53 and a L-200 model.

I have the L-200.  When I talked to Stan he told me that the powered vent louvers on the intake side just bolt to the inside of the kiln and you leave the RV style vent in position.  On the exhaust side you remove the standard RV style vent and install the louvers on the outside and the powered fan on the inside. 
He said they bolt/screw on the same as the standard vent. 

The "standard vent" has screw holes on a 11 x11 square pattern with the flange edge being a bit larger and the "sleeve" of the vent body is 9.25 x 9.25 inches. 
I designed my kiln with an opening that is a form fit for the vent sleeve so it is made out of 2x8 with a 9.25 x9.25 opening.  My walls are 8 inch thick with R40 plus insulation.

Did you find that the exhaust vent would not attach on the frame dimensions of the standard vent thus you had to redesign?  Maybe I need to stop work before I finish the wall in that area if I will have to modify the framing to accept a different design if I do upgrade in the future.  I looked for template sizing for the powered vent and could find nothing.  When I asked Stan he said it just fit over the old opening.

You posted your picture as I was typing.
Thanks

It looks like that is a vent close to the floor.  Is that an L-53 design with one vent high the other low.  With the L-200 both are high according to the Nyle design schematic.
The model for mine is:   Model: L200PV-220V-w/o Ctrl                 Maybe it is different.

Since it appears that Stan is now on the list maybe he can clarify.

xlogger

I put my as you see inside. Glenn1 on here did the same. I don't feel like what you see in my picture should be outside. I only have a 53. You might want to make you vent at least 10" but I would probably go close to 11" if I did it again. But Stan is right the power vent just fits over the old vent. I made that hole the same size as the other one but it didn't make any difference.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

xlogger

As of yesterday I had a load of poplar in kiln for 2 days and it's keep the temp right on 120° like I set it. I wish I would've got it with the unit when I got it.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

xlogger

I notice yesterday during a heat cycle that my front vent was open. The vent control fan is off and is not running. This is the first time I've notice them open without power vent running. I open the front door to see if they were stuck and they shut as soon as I open the door and open again when I shut the front door. During normal running the DH I've not notice them open like this. Has anyone notice this before?
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

YellowHammer

This is smething I came across in my kiln build and it is not desirable, and I'm assuming you have the passive intake vent installed on the suction side of the plenum and the powered exhaust on the pressure side? 

If so then they should be reversed, with the auto exhaust vent on the suction side, and the intake vent on the pressure side. 

The internal,pressure will keep the instake vent closed until the motorized exhaust vent turns on and it will overcome the pressure balance and force the intake vent to open. 

Or just put duct tape over the intake vent when sterilizing. 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

I seem to be missing something. If one vent is open, it cannot exhaust air without having fresh air come into the kiln from somewhere. And fresh air cannot enter into a kiln unless a vent or leaks allow air to be exhausted.  So, it would seem that having one vent open is not an issue in a leaky kiln. The exception would be if we are drying the wood so fast that the vapor is creating pressure...something that does happen when drying southern pine at 230 F.

It is common for medium and large kilns to have fans that reverse direction every two hours. Do they also reverse the power vents?  It makes sense to me that the power vent should assist the natural venting that the circulating fans develop. So, the high pressure side is exhaust.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

YellowHammer

You are correct, the makeup air is coming in from the other vent, allowing airflow.

Both vents have the same model passive louvers except the power vent has its blower mounted in line with its passive louver.  The exhaust louvers open slightly to the outside, even when the exhaust blower is not running if they are on the pressure side.  So some air is always exhausted from the pressure side and thus the passive intake vent then opens slightly to refill the chamber.  So in effect, two partially open and very leaky vents in that configuration.

If they are reversed, to where the exhaust vent is on the low pressure side then the passive louvers will get pulled backward into their frame to the closed position, much like a check valve.  So since they are forced closed, so is the passive intake vent, which being mounted on the high pressure side, also gets held closed against its frame.  So both are relatively sealed. 

Both vents do leak however, by their design tolerances, and when I'm running a sterilization cycle in the winter, I will put tape over both the vents. 

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

I get it.  Thanks for making sense of all this indeed.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

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