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Well now I did it. The sawmill build has begun.

Started by Crusarius, July 04, 2017, 06:02:33 PM

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Darrel

Paint should be functional and there is no reason that one of its functions shouldn't be entertainment. :)
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

Crusarius

I really want to make a statement :)

Didn't another company use yellow for a while?

btulloh

HM126

Crusarius


grouch

If I saw something like that crawling out of my woods, it might be justification for buying a can of bug spray. I'd at least load the shotgun and dare it to move.
Find something to do that interests you.

Ox

K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Crusarius


grouch

Quote from: Ox on August 23, 2017, 09:36:47 AM
:D you crack me up grouch

Hey, now! You can't put that on me; there are warnings all over this place about wearing your helmet!
Find something to do that interests you.

Crusarius

ok. so for now we will pause on the color. I am trying to figure out the carriage. Most of the mills I have seen use 1x1 4 post design. I am thinking 2x6 2 post design.

Anybody have any thoughts? I would like to keep the carriage as light as possible. But still sturdy and not flex on me.

The 2 post design will also make access quite a bit nicer not having to go inside the frame for everything.

2x6x.188 that I have is 9.747 pounds per foot.
2x6x.120 6.332 pounds per foot
2x6x.095 5.045 pounds per foot
1x1x.120 1.436 pounds per foot
1x1x.095 1.169 pounds per foot.

Any of those sizes could be made very strong with proper bracing.

grouch

I've never seen one built on 1x1 posts (assuming inches).

My HF mill has 1 square post and 1 round post. The only flex it has is in the same plane as the blade; that is, the left and right sides of the carriage (facing the direction of the operator during a cut) may not always be in line during the cut. The left usually lags a fuzz behind the right. This doesn't hurt the precision of the cut.

Assume the track is level forward and back (X) as well as left and right (Y). The blade must be held level (parallel to the plane of the track) regardless of its height (Z) above the track.

The posts are rigidly attached to the carriage wheels. If the top of the posts can flex forward or back, that causes the blade to be on an intersecting plane with the track rather than parallel. If the top of the posts can flex side to side, that _may_ cause the blade to not be parallel to the plane of the track, depending on the head design.

If the carriage wheels on one side lead or lag the wheels on the other side, the blade can remain parallel to the plane of the track and will simply cut with one side or the other in the lead, like leaning a handsaw into a cut instead of square to the face of the board.

The connection between posts and carriage must be rigid so that the angle of the posts to the track never changes under load. The connection at the top of the posts must be rigid so that the posts stay parallel to each other at all times.

(I started to say the posts must be square to the track front to back, but sure as I do, somebody will make a frame based on equilateral triangles with the head riding up and down along a tube angled 30 degrees from level).
Find something to do that interests you.

Crusarius

The other thing I need to think about is what I will have the head riding on. is it just going to use the threaded rod? or will I have a square tube that it slides over and the threaded rod only raises and lowers.

The second option will be much more stable.

Crusarius

yay. I just had a piece of 1.25" wide metal banding crimped to a 158" length. Now I have a dummy sawblade without teeth. That will be nice since I already shredded my arm last night.

Ox

second option for sure - i wouldn't want an entire mill head hanging off of any type of threads...tube within a tube so it can slide. 
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Crusarius

yea. wondering if I need to get really fancy and do a bearing or just steel on steel or HDPE insert.

I am liking the insert idea to keep from wrecking the paint and having rust issues. Last thing I want is for the verticals to rust and make the head not move smoothly.

Ox

mine is steel on steel, worn off paint.  i just oil now and then - no problems.  many mills are this way.  if it was a problem i think they'd do it differently...  now if it was a commercial mill it would wear out.  but our little play mills?  not much of a problem!
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Crusarius

Last night I got 5 more minutes in the shop. I have been looking at the pillow block bearings since I got them wondering why they didn't seem right. I finally put the inner collar on a flat surface and it was clear as day. Apparently the bearing were not installed straight. There is enough misalignment that I don't think I can adjust it out.

I sent an email asking if there is anything we can do about it. Hopefully I will hear back from him today. This may delay my build :(

Kbeitz

The bearings are adjustable. A plastic hammer will move them...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Crusarius

oooh. thats nice to know. I thought I would have to put them in the press to straighten them out.

Ox

After you bolt them down you can stick the shaft in there and twist them around wherever they need to be also.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Larry

Called self aligning.  The reason is the bearings correct for any inaccuracy of the mounting system.  The twist is also how bearings are installed in the block.

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Crusarius

1 more hour then its time to go build a sawmill....

Darrel

And in the event that the bearings ever fail, you can just replace the bearing, no need to replace the block.
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

Crusarius


Crusarius

I just spent all day drilling and tapping holes. I did learn a very valuable lesson. when you like to weld hot, like I do, drill and tap the holes before you final weld the plate. That plate was quite hard to tap. Glad it was the 1/2 x 13 holes and not the 3/16.

I may have to start a new build thread for the actual build portion and keep this one for crazy ideas. And pink sawmills :)

Darrel

Quote from: Crusarius on August 26, 2017, 07:52:53 PM
I may have to start a new build thread for the actual build portion and keep this one for crazy ideas. And pink sawmills :)

You may be on to something here. I once heard from a reliable source that pink cars are the safest cars on the road as evidenced by the fact that fewer people are hurt in pink car crashes than any other color of car.

I'm sure that the same thing is true of pink sawmills!

:D :D :D :D :D
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

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