Franklin trasmission

Started by XMartin, June 19, 2017, 10:48:11 PM

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XMartin

I plan to change the bearings in this transmission.


This is the tag,

Can anyone help with any advice, on getting this thing apart and back together again with new bearings?  I suspect I need to remove another bearing before I get either shaft out.  The shafts with the gears on them are HEAVY.  I feel the need for complete dis-assembly because the housing has silver flakes that will be impossible to clean out otherwise.

coxy

I now nothing about franklin trannys I'm not going to try to help  ;D but there are lots of people here that can and will tell you how   sorry for not being any help

XMartin

Coxy,
Thank you for your kindness.
XM

bushmechanic

I have never worked on anything Franklin either. Looking at the second pic, if you remove the lower bearing from the shaft then it may drop down into the case enough to pull the upper shaft out through the top hole. Just an observation, I don't know for  sure.

woodmaker

XMartin,what model and year Franklin does that transmission come out of ?  I have heard that Franklin manuals left out a lot of the important specifications ,and if the one i have seen is any indication,that is certainly true.
franklin q80,builtrite 40,husky 372,sachs dolmar 123, dozers,excavators,loaders,tri-axle dump trucks ,autocar tractor with dump,flatbed and detachable trailers, and 8  f350 diesels

RHP Logging

In the second picture the little plate that was bolted on to the end comes off and you can use a wooden drift to pound that shaft through. Then you can remove the bearing and seal from other end and bearing from this end. The other end has a female shaft coupling for your hydraulic pump right? If so check the splines to make sure they are clean on male pump side and female shaft side. I've had mine strip out three times and you have to pull the tranny to replace. The pump runs the loader function if this is a forwarder. What's wrong with the tranny? The first pic shows pretty clean gears I think. Looks like the fluid got a little hot at times though. How do you know bearings are shot?
Buckin in the woods

lynde37avery

i had bearings done in my 1970 Franklin 130axl. it was like $850 total. i brought it to a heavy equipment/truck repair shop in Bernardston MA called Raymonds Repair. they got the bearings for it. so it can be done, the parts are out there. good luck.
Detroit WHAT?

XMartin

RHP,
Thanks for the advice, I started tapping here and there, last night, and did get the shaft drifted out.  You are also right about the transmission driving the hydraulics on this forwarder.  The previous owner told me the splines stripped out too.  He bought a pump that drives off the back of the engine to replace it.  The splines are pretty bad.  I want to change the bearings because the input shaft seemed to have a lot of movement.  The ball bearings all seem loose. The gears do look nice, but there are lots of little silver flakes in the case, something is wearing, it must be the bearings.

mike_belben

In a single countershaft trans with straight teeth, the shafts are gonna want to repel each other and each tooth tries to climb out of the root of the teeth its meshed with.  Skidder trans has a hard life by nature, and load on the bearings is the natural result with that configuration. Youre on the right path.
Praise The Lord

RHP Logging

Quote from: XMartin on June 22, 2017, 07:02:12 AM
RHP,
Thanks for the advice, I started tapping here and there, last night, and did get the shaft drifted out.  You are also right about the transmission driving the hydraulics on this forwarder.  The previous owner told me the splines stripped out too.  He bought a pump that drives off the back of the engine to replace it.  The splines are pretty bad.  I want to change the bearings because the input shaft seemed to have a lot of movement.  The ball bearings all seem loose. The gears do look nice, but there are lots of little silver flakes in the case, something is wearing, it must be the bearings.

No problem. I've got the same one and I've had it out many times. How much are you talking for flakes? Some is normal. If the splines are bad on the female end of the shaft then you're looking at a new shaft. I get mine from my dealer for 350 bucks a piece. They don't make the shaft anymore and what they do is weld a new coupler on and have it turned down. The pump male side shaft is replaceble. That probably runs around $50 plus a seal. Do that stuff before you put it back together. The pump that runs of the engine is mounted on the side and is runs the blade and steer function. I don't know where else a guy would rig another pump off the engine. The race and bearing set is separate. I've never been able to locate them through Napa or the like. There is a place called Bearings inc near me that can get just about any bearing or seal. I believe the bearings and race assembly run about $70 each side. Get new seals too. I put the bell housing back on the tranny with the one minute permatex sealant. That stuff works great on everything seals and oil related.
Buckin in the woods

Corley5

Detroits have accessory drives on the back of the engine.  That's where my blade/steering pump is.  I replaced it a year ago.  There's two spots to drive accessories.  When my transmission driven pump strips out I'll put a second one on the engine.
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

deerguy

Gents,
Having worked for 2 different major bearing manufacturers for more years than I like to count, I thought I'd add my 2 cents. Almost all bearings and seals can be purchased from local bearing houses such as Motion Industries, Napa ( kinda the same company - different divisions ). The exception is product made under licence and is considered dealer only. Cat is really good at this.
The important part is to match the p/n's off the bearings to the letter. Each number/letter in the designation is important, and dropping/changing them without knowing the specifics can have catastrophic results. Things like cage design, number of rolling elements and radial internal clearance are all examples of info in the p/n.
Please make sure they supply you with the right bearings !!!
And based on currency these days, my Canuck 2 cents ain't worth much anywhere in the world these days... :)
I knew she was a keeper when she told me to buy the old skidder !!!!!

XMartin

Quote from: Corley5 on June 22, 2017, 10:11:22 PM
Detroits have accessory drives on the back of the engine.  That's where my blade/steering pump is.  I replaced it a year ago.  There's two spots to drive accessories.  When my transmission driven pump strips out I'll put a second one on the engine.
Corly5,   That is what the previous owner did to this machine, it has a Detroit 453.

RHP, Would you happen to have a list of the part numbers you have used?  It would sure come in handy around here!

Corley5

My 132 has a 3-53.  Wasn't yours converted to the 4-53?
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

XMartin

Yes, Corley5
The previous owner told me it was originally a 353, and it had been converted to a 453. I bought the machine at a discount, with the understanding that the engine was sick.  Turned out it was terminal.  I had it professionally rebuilt. They told me that it had gotten water on top of two pistons, from the exhaust, and when it was started, it bent two connecting rods. They gave me one, (I will post a picture later), it is easy to see the bend. The sleeve is also broken, but I don't know how that happened, maybe dis-assembly? They also told me that the balance weights in the accessory drive were  for the 353 engine, but they changed them to the correct 453 ones.
I know that I would most likely not have noticed that if I had done the work myself.  I paid that shop more money than I planned, but I don't mind that because I think these people do good work. 

coxy

the sleeve got broke from the rod being bent went it went to the down stroke there is not much room in between the rod and sleeve even when its straight

XMartin

There were other issues, a push rod spring had escaped the ring holding it in the head, cracking the snap ring groove in the head.  The push rod was bent and the spring broken.  The cam shaft had some kind of scoring on a lobe. It did not run very well.  I can't wait to get it screaming the way it was meant to!

mike_belben

In my experience guide wear is the typical cause of pushrods getting munched.   
Praise The Lord