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Question about ignition module/coil problem

Started by woodworker9, June 14, 2017, 02:40:03 PM

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woodworker9

This is for my Husqvarna K750 concrete cutting saw, which is extremely similar to a chainsaw.

All of a sudden, my saw won't start.  Ran perfectly on Monday.  Wouldn't start on Tuesday.

OEM part is 3 times the price of replacement part. 

Simple question:  is it important to put an OEM part in here?  I wouldn't even ask, except the OEM part has to be ordered, and I'm being quoted 10 days to 2 weeks.

I can buy a "replacement" coil/module off ebay for 1/3 the price, and it'll be here in 3 to 4 days.  No OEM's available fast online.....I checked.

Husqvarna part number is 510 11 56-02      if it matters to the conversation.

Thanks for any helpful insight.  I've never changed one of these before.

Jeff

PS   I use this saw for my business, and while I don't "need" it everyday, I absolutely HAVE to have it with me every day in case I need it.  This is for concrete raising, and cutting control joints in stuck slabs.  I have to have a saw with me, and no saw for 2 weeks is a very bad thing.....check that....impossible.
03' LT40HD25 Kohler hydraulic w/ accuset
MS 441, MS 290, New Holland L185

dougand3

You're sure coil is bad?
I've never worked on a K750. Closest I've had is a 272xp. I've used 3 AM coils on those and they all work fine. If your job depends on it, may be better for comfort level to buy OEM. Me, I'd probably buy 2 AM coils and have a spare handy. I've seen AM coils for $12. OEM look to be pushing $100.
Changing coil should be easy - 2 screws (hex or Torx), business card to gap, attach kill wires, route plug wire.
Husky: 372xt, 272xp, 61, 55 (x3)...Poulan: 315, 4218 (x3), 2375, 2150, 2055, 2000 (x3)...Stihl 011AVT...Homelite XL...Saws come in broken, get fixed or parted, find new homes

Al_Smith

Husqvarna 510-11-56-02 and Partner #544 -04-75-02 are the same part,coil for K750 and K760 which are Partner designed Husqvarna saws .

An aftermarket coil is cheap ,so cheap were it I ,I would buy one if for nothing else to have a spare coil if my work required a concrete saw all the time .They're like 40 bucks,E-bay .
A chainsaw coil might work but most concrete saws have a limiting coil to keep the engine RPM's low enough so the blade speed is under 5000 RPM's .You don't want a blade to fly apart in your face,not good  :o

woodworker9

Thanks for the pointers.  I finally found an OEM coil and ordered it.  Be here Monday.

I'm just not a fan of aftermarket "stuff" and prefer to stick with the OEM parts.........
03' LT40HD25 Kohler hydraulic w/ accuset
MS 441, MS 290, New Holland L185

RPowers

Late to the party, but I just had the coil go out on my 3120xp I use for wide slab milling. Ran fine last use a couple months ago, this time nothing at all. I ordered the aftermarket "fit" for this saw for the reason you mentioned = cheap and available. That came in  but the plug wire from the coil was a good 6 inches too short, and once I rigged up an extension it would fire the saw once but not run it. No idea why. Two weeks and a $90 oem coil later and the saw runs and cuts great again. Cheap isn't always best.
2013 Woodmizer LT28G25 (sold 2016)
2015 Woodmizer LT50HDD47

woodworker9

This is precisely why I order OEM whenever I possibly can. 

Crazy week for me.  Drive belt on my Exmark lawn mower blows up with only 134 hours on the mower.  Order an OEM one from a dealer.  Arrives last Saturday, and I can tell right away it's not OEM.  Try to put it on, and it's 1" too short.  Online dealer tries to screw me over shipping me an aftermarket one, figuring I'm too stupid, or something, to know the difference.  After a not so nice phone call, he refunds my money immediately, and tells me to just keep the belt.....which doesn't fit anyway.  They're so cheap he didn't even want to pay to ship it back to himself.

Thank goodness for Paypal.  I'm guessing an online seller can get into some heat with accepting paypal if they do this sort of nonsense, but that's just a guess.

Sure hope my module arrives, and it'd better be green!
03' LT40HD25 Kohler hydraulic w/ accuset
MS 441, MS 290, New Holland L185

Al_Smith

A lot of times concrete and rail saws share parts with chainsaws .From what little bit of info I was able to glean that one doesn't . Odd ball 51 MM bore if I remember correctly .
Some of this stuff is a challenge to find parts for,how well I know .I was able to cross reference parts for two Makita concrete saws which are just Dolmars with blue plastic .
At the present time I have two Partner p100 chainsaws  which I think share parts with a Partner K1200 concrete  saw .Which now of days would be Husqvarna .I look at it like this,if it were easy everybody could do it . ;)

woodworker9

The new ignition module arrived today, as promised.   After about 10 minutes to remove the old one and install the new one, and put it all back together, my saw fired up on the first pull.

I was relieved that it was the problem, and not something more complicated.
03' LT40HD25 Kohler hydraulic w/ accuset
MS 441, MS 290, New Holland L185

Ada Shaker

Glad to hear you got it fired up and running.
I always carry a backup chain saw just in case of such incidences.
Nothing worse than being an hours drive from home with half a load of wood and no saw.
Not saying you should be carrying two of everything, that's ridiculous but if my business were reliant on a tool,
i'd sure be having a backup at home/depot, or
networking with others so that at times of need, your back is covered and so is theirs.
Once again good to hear your good to go.
If it hangs to the left, your likely to be a Husqvarna man.
If it hangs to the right, your likely to be a Stihl man.
Anything else is an uncomfortable compromise.
                             AND
Walking with one foot on either side of a barbed wire fence can become extremely uncomfortable at times.

joe_indi

I think a brief mention of one of the causes for coil burnout is important here.
I have seen several saws with this problem, and they were not limited to any particular brand.
What I noticed was that they all had the grounding wire stripped of insulation, constantly earthing on some metallic area, not enough to stop the saw, but enough to cause an erratic short circuit.
Being no electronic engineer with knowledge of the insides of an ignition coil, I cannot vouch for what this would cause inside a coil, but common sense says it would not be good.

Al_Smith

I think more times than not over heating would be the biggest cause of failure .It's not the actual coil that goes bad but rather the solid state trigger device encapsulated within the ignition module .The results are the same no spark .
Concrete saws would naturally  be worse with all that fine dust clogging up everything .--air hose ,use it often
To add to that I don't think the life of a concrete saw measured in hours is nearly as long as a chainsaw .

Al_Smith

More.Years ago I had a McCulloch PM 610 chainsaw ,horizontal cylinder .After a long run time when I shut it down to gas it  often times I'd have to wait 15-20 before it would start .Come to find out the bottom of the cylinder was clogged with chips .Didn't think of that .Couldn't get rid of the heat,didn't affect how it ran,when it ran though .
Then years later ,another horizontal cylinder McCulloch ,a 700 .Same thing and the cylinder was clear .It just needed a cool down run before it was shut down .It was 96 degrees that day .Incidentally  at the same time I was running a modified Stihl 038 Mag that never once failed to start,vertical cylinder .Better design for hot weather .

woodworker9

Well, I hate to back here about this problem, but yesterday, after only using the concrete saw 2 times since repairing it, it went dead again.

First start in the morning was very difficult, but after about 15 pulls, it slowly sputtered to life.  First time ever doing that.  I mean, it just barely, barely fired.

Shut it down, and 20 minutes later, needed it again.  NOTHING.  Opened it up, and checked for spark.  No spark at all.  Not even a whimper of a bit of arc.

Is it likely that my new OEM coil was/is a dud, and just get another one, or am I looking at something else as being the cause?

A new saw is $825.   A coil is $90.  2 coils is $180.   You get my drift.   I'm frugal as heck, though, and have had a recent run of bad luck with breakdowns that were expensive on other equipment.

What do you guys think?
03' LT40HD25 Kohler hydraulic w/ accuset
MS 441, MS 290, New Holland L185

joe_indi

Disconnect the switch wire from the coil and try again. It could be just a shorted switch or a short circuit of the switch wire and the earth wire.

woodworker9

My apologies for not responding faster.  I was out of town in a remote area for a couple of weeks, and we had no internet or cell service at all.

Joe,  I tried what you stated, and disconnected the only wire that goes to the ignition module on my saw. 

It made no difference.

I pulled the plug, connected it to the wire, and had my son pull the starter a few times while I watched.  No spark noticed at all.

Is it possible/probable that this brand new, OEM ignition module failed after 2 runs?  If so, that just torques my gord, so to speak.

I purchased this from a seller I found online from a search, who had it in stock.  Does Husqvarna warranty these modules, in your knowledge? 

I have purchased a brand new concrete saw, because I do not have time, or the patience, to deal with these sorts of breakdowns.  I don't need the saw often, but when I do, well......I need the danged thing to start and run.

I wish to figure out this problem, correct it, make sure it is fixed, and move it along to someone else.  I don't need 2 concrete saws.

Thanks for any advice.
03' LT40HD25 Kohler hydraulic w/ accuset
MS 441, MS 290, New Holland L185

joe_indi

woodworker9, it sounds silly but still I need to ask, did you check for spark with a different plug?
Have you fitted the new coil with more than recommended air gap?
Could you post a picture of the coil on your concrete saw?

woodworker9

Joe

Thanks for pointing out something obvious that I wouldn't have even thought of.  I guess I need to stop trusting brand new parts, because the spark plug in the saw was only 2 weeks old.  I changed the plug AGAIN, closed it up, and it fired right up.  I ran it good for about an hour today, and so far, it's fine.

A darned good thing, too, because now I've got a problem with my brand new K760.  I'm working on it, and I'll start another thread if I can't figure it out.....

Thanks for your help.  I'll be back if the "fix" is only temporary, like the last time.
03' LT40HD25 Kohler hydraulic w/ accuset
MS 441, MS 290, New Holland L185

Ox

I've had more problems with bad spark plugs these last few years than in all my life put together.  Something has changed and they aren't as reliable anymore.  It's one of the first things I do whenever I suspect a spark problem - I have an old Autolite plug tested and known to be good that has never been run in anything - I used it to check spark problems.  Then I bought an inline spark checker and I won't go back to anything again.  It checks that the coil is firing without pulling the plug.  It's easy and convenient.  If the checker fires off but the engine won't with a little ether then I change the plug and go from there.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Kbeitz

Just had that happen to my zero-turn. It would start uo and go 10 feet and quit.
First thing I was thinking was a gas problem. But nope it was electrical.  So I was
thinking safety switch. Nope. So I changer the whole wiring harness. Nope.
Never seen one start right up and run for about 10 feet and quit. I changed the plug
and it ran great.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ox

Classic example!  Spark plugs are becoming, as a whole, a little less reliable.  Maybe it's just for us lucky dudes in the northeast...
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

woodworker9

Quote from: Ox on August 31, 2017, 09:59:37 AM
Classic example!  Spark plugs are becoming, as a whole, a little less reliable.  Maybe it's just for us lucky dudes in the northeast...

Nope.....it's prevalent in the midwest, too.  I just had another "Champion" brand new spark plug fail after 2 weeks in a 13 hp Honda.  What a joke when the world can't make spark plugs anymore......

For me, it's not a brand thing, either, because the plug in concrete saw was a NGK.

I'm 53 years old, and have been running outdoor power equipment of all types daily for all of my teen and adult life.  This is the first hint of "brand new" frequent spark plug failure I've ever experienced.

It's a shame......
03' LT40HD25 Kohler hydraulic w/ accuset
MS 441, MS 290, New Holland L185

Ox

Hopefully the NGK was a fluke occurrence.  They've always been a good plug.  I used to love Autolites.  They made a popping problem on an old Farmall H disappear.  Then I had a brand new Autolite stop working in a Dodge minivan I did a tuneup on.  I'm sick of this crap.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

EbaYau

Hi...i am a new user here. In my case I have used three ampere coils on those and they all work fine. If your job depends on it, may be better for comfort level to buy OEM. I will buy two ampere coils and have a spare handy.

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