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Author Topic: Hand plane  (Read 696 times)

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Offline Leegej

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Hand plane
« on: June 08, 2017, 12:16:28 am »
Anyone here use hand tools for woodworking? I want to try my hand with hand tools and wondering what hand plane to purchase first. Could be a long time before I have the funds for a 2nd high end plane. I am currently working (slowly) on a dining room table.

Offline Kbeitz

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #1 on: June 08, 2017, 02:24:48 am »
Anyone here use hand tools for woodworking? I want to try my hand with hand tools and wondering what hand plane to purchase first. Could be a long time before I have the funds for a 2nd high end plane. I am currently working (slowly) on a dining room table.

If you don't have any I would say get a 12" one to start. There is a lot of
good ones out there. Biggest thing is getting it sharp and keeping it sharp.
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Offline Leegej

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #2 on: June 08, 2017, 07:01:42 am »
Was thinking of a low angle jack plane from lee valley or lie Nielsen maybe. Probably the lie Nielsen thought because lee valleys are back ordered until July, and the lie Nielsen seem to hold their value on eBay.

Offline Jemclimber

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #3 on: June 08, 2017, 08:38:24 am »
Veritas planes hold their value, Ebay usually commands very close to new price for used Lee Valley planes too. I recently bought a Veritas #5 jack and really like it. I especially like the very easy to adjust mouth. My next plane will be a Veritas #4 smooth plane.
 
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Offline Leegej

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #4 on: June 08, 2017, 09:13:35 am »
I was trying to decide between a veritas low angle jack, and the jack rabbet. I thought the fence would be handy to help with jointing since this will be the only plane I'll have for now. And the jack rabbet would come in handy with some of the timber frame ideas I've dreamed up. But I need something sooner than mid summer, and lee valley is back oardered...

Offline JV

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #5 on: June 08, 2017, 09:19:57 am »
A lot of these planes are based on the old Stanley planes even using their old numbers.  They can on occasion be found at flea markets and antique stores.  Some are quite collectible and are priced accordingly, however, sometimes you can find them cheap.  One thing though, most are not sharpened correctly.  There is a system called "scary sharp".  It uses a piece of plate glass, sandpaper, and a spray adhesive like 3M 90.  Sharp is a must.  I got hooked years ago and have way too many antique tools.  A smoother is a good place to start, but then you will need a shoulder plane and the list goes on.   ::)
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Offline Leegej

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #6 on: June 08, 2017, 09:42:14 am »
I picked up a Stanley 80 scraper and a card scraper, I also got Arkansas oil stones and a leather strip and have discovered scary sharp on my pocket knife and chisels! I've been watching eBay for a Stanley 112 that doesn't go for crazy dollars, I think the 112 would be a lot nicer for the 8' long hickory table I'm making. Getting plenty of little grain tear out putting the hickory through the thickness planet. Also picked up a Stanley 49 tongue and groove plane for putting the table rob together with room to float. Hand grooving hickory isn't a walk in the park, but it's not as bad as I expected with a scary sharp and polished blade.

Offline Dave Shepard

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #7 on: June 08, 2017, 09:48:00 am »
Having only one plane will be tricky, as different planes are sharpened differently. A No. 5 has a slightly rounded profile for heavier stock removal. A No. 4 has a nearly, but not completely, straight profile. You could get by with multiple irons sharpened for the intended purpose. Do you have sharpening equipment? That is more important then the brand of plane. I agree that a Lie-Nielsen is a beautiful tool, but if you are on a budget,  an old Stanley and a couple of hours tuning will give you a great tool also. I have several old Stanley and Sargeant planes that I have tuned up, and only one of them I had to buy for $35, the others came in boxes of junk I have acquired over the years.
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Offline Leegej

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #8 on: June 08, 2017, 10:05:41 am »
I've got the sharpening equipment, Arkansas stones. Money is always a consideration, but I also like to buy a tool once. So quality and hoe well it will hold its value are major considerations. I also tend to over analyze a bit, the research is half the fun!

Offline Leegej

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #9 on: June 08, 2017, 07:05:54 pm »
The bride took over the wood shop to finish up a bench she's making for a wedding present, so I found myself sitting on the porch with a cocktail enjoying the down time and beautiful day. Was surfing lie nielsens site and next thing I knew I have a low angle jack plane on the way! Wish I could say this is the first time alcohol has fueled an online purchase...

Offline woodworker9

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #10 on: June 08, 2017, 10:39:47 pm »
I am a planemaker, and I just posted a video on my YouTube channel about the very question you are asking.

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Offline Kbeitz

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #11 on: June 09, 2017, 06:00:09 am »
I bought one of these to sharpen all my chisels and plane blades.
I'll never go back to hand sharping again...

 

 
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Offline Dave Shepard

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #12 on: June 09, 2017, 08:53:04 am »
How do you set the camber on that?
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Offline Leegej

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #13 on: June 09, 2017, 12:44:54 pm »
Woodworker-I watched that video through the low angle jack plane. I ordered the lie Nielsen low and jack plus the extra iron at 50 degrees was it? The iron that slows you to scrape anyhow.

Kbeitz- Whats the damage on that sharpening rig? That looks a lot better than staring at stones for ages!

Offline Kbeitz

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #14 on: June 09, 2017, 04:53:45 pm »
Woodworker-I watched that video through the low angle jack plane. I ordered the lie Nielsen low and jack plus the extra iron at 50 degrees was it? The iron that slows you to scrape anyhow.

Kbeitz- Whats the damage on that sharpening rig? That looks a lot better than staring at stones for ages!

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Offline Kbeitz

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #15 on: June 09, 2017, 04:55:48 pm »
How do you set the camber on that?

There is different holding attachments that can be bought for this machine.
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Offline woodworker9

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #16 on: June 09, 2017, 05:18:09 pm »
You can grind the 2nd iron to any angle you want.  I keep mine at 50, which gives an effective cutting/planing angle at 62.5.  This is very effective on extremely difficult-to-plane gnarly wood, and effectively gives you another plane for the cost of the iron....approx. $45 if I remember correctly.

I also have the toothing plane iron, which is also great to have.
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Offline Leegej

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #17 on: June 09, 2017, 08:40:57 pm »
I don't intend on getting a toothed iron anytime soon, gotta figure out the learning curve first. I was curious how you sharpened toothed irons tho??

Offline woodworker9

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #18 on: June 10, 2017, 09:34:59 am »
Sharpen them the same way.  Pay equal attention to both the bevel and the back.  Truthfully, not as critical on a toothing plane, but I sharpen all my irons, chisels, etc....to the same level of mirror polish, bevel and back, for optimal performance and planing time between re-sharpening.
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Offline GrizG

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Re: Hand plane
« Reply #19 on: June 10, 2017, 12:39:07 pm »
If I were limited to one plane it would be a L-N No 5 with two irons, one sharpened as a smoother/jointer and the other as a jack. I have a number of L-N planes and the No 5 is the most versatile. For example, the No 4 smoother is too short to flatten and straighten and something like a No 7 is too long and heavy for anything but jointing and flattening large boards.  Block planes... not if I could only have one plane! Scrub planes are wonderful to have as are routers but certainly not critical.

As concerns my experience. I'm known not only for my handcut dovetails but also for my other hand tool skills. I give presentations on hand tool skills at woodworking shows... and have a box full of awards for my work.