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Thermostat question

Started by Spartan, June 07, 2017, 10:15:48 PM

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Spartan

So its been warmer here and in the 80's on the job.
My Detroit and trans are running warmer than than the old one did.  After putting in a reconditioned motor and rebuilding my converter.  Figures....

Its a timberjack 450, detroit 453, clark 28000 powershift.

Right now on a long heavy haul uphill its hitting 205 on the engine side and 220 on the trans.
I took the oil cooler out to see if it was plugged up, no.  It used to run cooler than that.

The trans cools down quick when not pulling, the motor slower.

So the thermostat I had in it I think is 185.  I don't have time to order a detroit 170.
So I have two generics, a 160, and a 180.  I am reluctant to put either in because one is only 5 degrees difference and the other seems too cold.

Anyone run a 160?
And... am I just paranoid with those numbers?  Maybe its fine, I'm just used to cooler.
Thanks
Brian.

treeslayer2003

the 160 is fine. nor5mally my trans runs about 10 degrees cooler than the engine.

snowstorm

205 is to warm unless its only for a short time.  i have a 28000 clark my book says 200 to 250

Spartan

thanks guys,  Ill throw the 160 in and see what happens.

central pa

We also have a 450 tj same engine and transmission both professional rebuild but the transmission heats up to quickly which pushes the engine temp to high still working on figuring out why
If anyone has any ideas would be greatly appreciated

Spartan

your brake isn't adjusted too tight is it?
Oil cooler plugged?

That stinks, I hate troubleshooting them.

Thermostat didn't really help btw, I had my doubts.

treeslayer2003

maybe a dumb question, but possible wrong filter? to tight? i am thinking its a restriction creating heat.

Gary_C

205 degrees is NOT too hot. Engines run better at higher temperatures. Any temperature that does not cause boiling is OK.
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

snowstorm

The old saying with a 671. If it gets over 200 degrees buy an extra head for it.

Spartan

My book says not to let the engine temp go over 200.

Today it was about 60 out.  engine was 165-170 working.  Trans was 195.


Quote from: treeslayer2003 on June 09, 2017, 10:19:54 AM
maybe a dumb question, but possible wrong filter? to tight? i am thinking its a restriction creating heat.

Do you have the remote filter? 
It needs to be a full flow design.  Mine takes a Wix #51403 or comparable.

I wouldn't think that would be the issue for you.  The oil comes out of the pump directly into the filter, then through the regulator valve.  After it hits 280psi it dumps the rest into your converter.
I would think you would have drive issues if it was a wrong filter and was resticting. 
Do you have drive issues?  Hows your oil level and oil look?

central pa

That filter idea is good have to check into that Monday
As far as the drive seem very sharp not sponge or sluggish .
Charge pressure is aaround  280 to 295
We just changed the return line  from the cooler to the Trans was a 3/4 and the specs  called for 1" can hardly believe it was that haven't run it since

central pa

Changing that line might have made a small difference not much
checked the filter I forgot the nnumber but it spec out to yours with a flow capacity of 20 to 30 gpm 
I was trying a couple of things today it runs the coolest at 3/4 rpm if I held it flat I could almost see the Guage go up is that maybe how your supposed to run it
Is there something like to much oil in the transmission it's right at the full mark or a little over

dgdrls

do the transmissions cool through the engine radiator like a car?
I think Central Pa is on to a common thread,
Trans loads are driving the temps up
Does the trans fluid smell burnt or hot?

Radiators clean, open and fully flowing?

D



treeslayer2003

Quote from: dgdrls on June 14, 2017, 08:02:42 PM
do the transmissions cool through the engine radiator like a car?
I think Central Pa is on to a common thread,
Trans loads are driving the temps up
Does the trans fluid smell burnt or hot?

Radiators clean, open and fully flowing?

D
the old clarks do. and yes you right, trans will drive up engine temp. thats why i find it strange when they say the trans runs alot higher than the engine.

Spartan

Its a remote cooler on the frame side in the engine bay.

Low oil is usually a culprit for higher temp, but also overfull could do that as it expands under heat it can get into the gears and foam and thats not great either.

central pa

Did you get yyours figured out spartan
I was still trying a couple of things on ours. Our skid road is about a half mile fairly flat with a short steep part at the back on the first drag going back through I kept the rpms almost maxed out till I got to the back the Trans temp was at 210. Then this afternoon I used the temp gun with the engine at 190 the Trans at 210 oil cooler input showed 210 output 198.
does anyone know is that what I should expect .
I'm beginning to think there might be an internal air leak

Spartan

Geez, I wouldn't be too worried about those numbers.  especially after a half mile skid.

No, I did not figure our mine yet.

Today was rough.  I was constantly stopping to cool it down.
Tomorrow is supposed to be 10 deg. cooler, so I will run it but only for a half a day.  I have to fall in the morning.  At the end of the day I will pull my water pump and check for blockage or corrosion,  doesn't seem to be anything else at this point so I will check that off my list.  I don't seem to be getting circulation in my reservoir with the t stat open.
We'll see.  the engine sat for a while and I did notice some corrosion in the hose port so its worth a shot.

A suction leak would show up in your oil, and your drive would suffer a bit.
Was the trans charge pump replaced?

timberlinetree

Most likely  not, but I  have had radiator cap problems on 2 engines this summer. Fixed it :-\. Good luck with it!
I've met Vets who have lived but still lost their lives... Thank a Vet

Family man and loving it :)

Spartan

my water pump was fine.

Never thought about a cap problem.

air1514

Check your fan belts. I couldn't figure out why my 353 was overheating on long pulls and it turned out being the fan belts were slipping a little. I was to the point of having the radiator recored. But after tighting the belts it's doing fine. Never gets hot now.

Spartan

I did check those, thanks for the idea.  They were all good.

central pa

Cheers I think we finally found the problem oil level in the transmission was too high.  Today it was 90 degrees an humid, uphill  both ways . The engine temp stayed at 195 Trans at 200 .
Thanks for all the ideas were to look especially spartan

Spartan

Glad you figured it out, and a simple fix to boot.

I figured a few things out about mine.  I put a 170 t stat in, and backed my governor down to 2500 load.  I noticed one day that if I ran the rpm in the 2300-2400 range that the trans oil did not heat up near as much.  My tach may be off, dunno it might be spinning faster than it reads and might not have had enough oil to cover it.  Not quite as snappy but still will pull good.  I washed the radiator fins out as well.  The warmest I have run it lately is air temp of 80 degrees.  Shorter runs but still steep climbs.  engine temps never got to 200 and the trans was usually around 200.

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