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backhoe from scratch and scrap

Started by grouch, June 06, 2017, 09:06:12 AM

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grouch

Quote from: rjwoelk on August 18, 2017, 10:28:56 AM
Grouch I love reading your stuff,  :D Good way to start the day.
Have to look you up some time in my trucking travels.

Thanks! If you're passing by Mammoth Cave, you're close enough to detour to here for rest and a cup of coffee. Last long truck that tried to get here had to back up for a couple of miles to turn around, though.  :D
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grouch

Frame and swing hinge stuff.


Having half of the main hinge bolted allows for shimming it when it wears. Bolts need bolt holes. The 1-1/4 inch diameter pin and the vise jaws keep everything aligned so I can bore two pieces together.


Top half of the swing hinge temporarily held together with 1/4-20 bolts.
You might notice some discoloration and dings in part of the 'roboduck'. It had to be persuaded with heat and a ball peen hammer to get the boom pin holes back in alignment after welding.


That's a 3/16 x 4 x 8 piece of rectangular tubing being cut in a 4-1/2 x 6 bandsaw. The two pieces are for the main frame of the backhoe.


Exceeding maximum capacity.


Turning 1 bite into 2 can sometimes double the listed capacity.


Close enough for this job and a lot easier than using a sawzall in this case.




Two pieces assembled and welded and almost ready for mounting.


I should know better than to show closeups of welds by now.


Note the weld fillets milled off in two places. The reason should become clear, later.

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grouch

More frame and swing.


Milling a bevel the hard way.


Two of three 5/8-11 grade 8 bolts in place.


The fillets pointed out before were too fat and interfered with the movement of this hinge.




Finishing up the last bolt-on piece.




Those are 1/4 x 3 x 3 inch square tubes, capped at each end by 1/4 x 3 inch flat bar. Swing hinge parts aligned and welded in the center.
(Random pieces of sheet metal seen propped up in these photos were used to prevent pets or stray humans from blinding themselves looking at the welding flash).




The two pieces of 1/4 x 2 x 2 inch square tubing nearest that pipe clamp holding the frame rails in place are what the swing cylinders will eventually push against.


Boom base (roboduck) hanging on the main frame.




Probably can't see it in this photo, but there is a line scored in the frame rail for aligning the 2 inch square tubes. The red magnet just helped hold things square until the clamp could be tightened and diagonal measurements taken to confirm squareness before welding.


The top of the top hinge and the bottom of the bottom hinge are held on only with those bolts. They can be removed if necessary to put in any shims needed to compensate for wear.
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grouch

Dogbone.


Freehand cutting a chunk that started out as one side of a 1/2 x 4 x 8 angle.




I was wearing 2 pairs of glasses while cutting these things. Didn't quite see it this well, though.




I cut 4 of these parts but only used 2 of them as intended. The other 2 came in handy for changing the stabilizer cylinder mounts, later.
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Kbeitz

I have a 12" metal cutting band saw a plasma cutter and a large chop saw.
But as I get older I find myself cutting more and more steel with my Dewalt
angle grinder with a 6" cut off wheel. This year I used 100 cutoff wheels already.
It just seems faster and easier .
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

grouch

Those cut-off wheels produce dust. I screwed up my respiratory system some years ago and can't deal very well with abrasive type dust. Plasma and bandsaw are my weapons of choice now.
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rjwoelk

Quote from: grouch on August 18, 2017, 06:59:01 PM
Quote from: rjwoelk on August 18, 2017, 10:28:56 AM
Grouch I love reading your stuff,  :D Good way to start the day.
Have to look you up some time in my trucking travels.

Thanks! If you're passing by Mammoth Cave, you're close enough to detour to here for rest and a cup of coffee. Last long truck that tried to get here had to back up for a couple of miles to turn around, though.  :D


well you know the song "Give me 40 acres and I'll turn this rig around."   Had to back up half a mile once that little wooden bridge just looked good engough to cross with a horse and buggy.
Lt15 palax wood processor,3020 JD 7120 CIH 36x72 hay shed for workshop coop tractor with a duetz for power plant

Don_Papenburg

You might want to try anular bits for mag drills . They fit the 3/4" collet and make real nice one pass holes . Great for old worn Bridgeport like I have.
Frick saw mill  '58   820 John Deere power. Diamond T trucks

grouch

Quote from: Don_Papenburg on August 21, 2017, 12:21:27 AM
You might want to try anular bits for mag drills . They fit the 3/4" collet and make real nice one pass holes . Great for old worn Bridgeport like I have.

Thanks, I'll look into that. I think 3/4" is the largest useable collet I have.
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grouch

Boom holes.


Adding a little thickness to the end of the boom that will carry the dipper.


Those are not pits in the weld bead; for some reason I took this picture before knocking the slag off.  ::)


Adding 2 inch OD DOM tubing for the mid-boom pivots.


The end of the boom all welded up. That's all 6011.


If I let go, the pin falls out. Welding warpage defeated!


Same for the other pin. You can see the inside of the DOM tubes on the left. It took just a light pass with a brake cylinder hone in the upper one in the photo to let the pins fall through easily.
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grouch

Boom stuff.




Ok, I was shocked at how these things stayed aligned with all that welding and that's the only reason for the last 2 photos.


Boom and dipper cylinders in place.






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grouch

Cutting flat from angle.


Needed some 1/2 inch flat bars but only had angle. The table that came with the bandsaw was a little flimsy square of sheet metal. I replaced that with a heftier chunk, but it was too small for this cut.


The fillet was milled flat before bringing this to the bandsaw. Washers were used to keep the kerf from closing on the blade.


That took longer than torch or plasma, but I needed to minimize waste.
The 1 inch thick piece is there just to make it easier to slide the angle across the table.


Good enough for my use.
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grouch

Dipper drilling.


This setup is the envy of all machine shops everywhere.
The random pieces of sheet metal propped up on the left are left over from previous weld operations -- they keep pets from watching the arc.


This is the bucket end of the dipper and needs two holes for pivots.


The bucket will pivot here. 2 inch O.D. DOM tubing with 3/8 inch wall and a bored 1-1/4 inch I.D.
That's a 2 inch hole saw and that particular brand was consistent and durable throughout this project. (I have no association with that manufacturer).


Center punched for the bucket linkage pivot.


The idea is to have the 2 inch DOM barely clear the inside of the rectangular tubing.


The cobbled together drill guide worked well for this.






Didn't trust that guide more than measuring and marking, so the holes got drilled from each side.
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Magicman

Don't knock dat Blue Cup over because from thence comes your strength.   :D

Your project continues to be fascinating and looks good.   smiley_thumbsup
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

grouch

Oh, man, that cup does show up in a lot of pictures! Kinda tells on me. :)
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grouch

Dipper DOMs.


They fit the holes at least.













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grouch

Revise and extend the first parts.


With the main frame of the backhoe about done, it was time to make a place to put it. I didn't know how I was going to mount it, way back when I built the subframe rails, so those rails were unfinished at the rear. It was time to clean 'em up and add some stuff.
To the left in the photo, the ear muffs are laying on what will be the lower half of the backhoe mount for one subframe rail. It's cut from 1/2 inch thick 4 x 8 angle.


Sometimes you can't avoid a grinder.


1/2 inch 4 x 8 angle welded to the rail.


Closer look at this first pass.


This has nothing to do with the subframe; it's one of the dogbone pieces of the bucket linkage. It is chronologically in order even if it's not logically in order. That's the way I work sometimes. :)

That's a rotary index table I bought from Grizzly, with a custom made milled, drilled and tapped disc brake rotor mounted on top of it. The dogbone is clamped to the rotor.


\
This is a revision of the front loader posts (a.k.a., towers). After using the loader for digging, I discovered that it was damaging the holes that were factory-threaded in the side of the bell housing. I had built boxes on the sides of the posts almost halfway up, and these were bolted to the bell housing.

My solution was to cut off those boxes and brace the posts to the subframe.


I used the come-along to preload the post, leaning it forward as far as the 1/2-13 gr 8 bolts in the base would allow. That determined where to put the mounts for that 1/4 inch wall 2 x 2 square tubing brace.


Paint ground off for welding the brace mount bracket.

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grouch

Continued revising and extending the first parts.


More welding of the mount.




Wrapping around the corner.


It's probable that I didn't need to fill all that space to tie the two pieces of 1/2 x 4 x 8 angle together, but I don't know any better.


I thought I would need to add a PTO powered hydraulic pump and therefore would need a reservoir. The subframe seemed like a good one. This turned out to not be needed, but the hole and bung will be a good inspection hole.




Some short pieces of pipe make the holes for the through bolts leak-proof.










And repeat for the other hole.
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grouch

Blasting.


(Has the earth tilted?)
The subframe rails are awkward (a.k.a., PITA) to take off and put on, so this thing gets sandblasted and painted before going back on the tractor. The media used is that black stuff made from coal slag. The hanging curtain is neoprene rubber.


Fancy adjustable height hanger system.


That's bare metal, not primer.


It starts out as an 80 grit media and gets into all the little spaces, including your personal spaces.


Top of the blasting booth, showing grommets, S-hooks and the 1/2 inch EMT (electrical metallic tubing) loop that the curtain hangs from.
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grouch

Priming.


Bare, blasted part hanging from ladders.


Note the extreme measures taken to keep dust, bugs and other contaminants from getting into the paint. The exhaust fan was used to try to make sure the weeds got more paint than me.


Those bolts are screwed in until they are flush on the other side, in order to keep paint out of the threads in the hole.


Fins like a '58 DeSoto.


This is the socket into which will fit the backhoe main frame rail.
Primer is a two part epoxy: EPX-900 with EPX-901 catalyst.
All painting was done while wearing a forced fresh air hood.

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grouch

Base coat.


Conditions have to be right for painting. The epoxy primer has a 3 day window for top coating, after which, you have to sand the tough stuff.


Not quite a clean room, eh? This is the aftermath of the base coat spray.
Foreground left - the portable air tank is just a portable shelf. Foreground right - the fresh air hood which receives air pumped from 50 feet away with a HEPA filter on the intake. The isocyanates in modern paint are not to be taken lightly, as they can crawl up exposed hair -- beard, etc. -- to get to your organs. Not shown are the tyvek painter's suit with booties and nitrile gloves. No skin was exposed while painting.


It's red.


Weld spatters need paint protection, too.


This paint came with fewer bugs per quart than some others.


The hanging part heeded the warning label (right) on the ladder and did not fall during painting.


The famous HF "purple gun" -- one of the jewels to be found amongst the junk. That thinner to the left is an aggressive cleaner; if it won't clean it, you need a new one. Fresh air from elsewhere is needed during use.


The formula for the Shopline paint used.
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grouch

Clear coat.


Same setup as before.


Clear coat is PPG's cheap Shopline brand.


Runs and drips are decorative.


Lots of decorations here.


Slick is not needed.


There's that bug again.


I may have been a bit off in my paint matching.
(The red paint was left over from some years before).


Barely fits.

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Peter Drouin

Man, that's a lot of work! Do you have an idea how many hrs you have in it all so far?
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

grouch

Quote from: Peter Drouin on August 24, 2017, 06:19:16 AM
Man, that's a lot of work! Do you have an idea how many hrs you have in it all so far?

Not a clue. :)
It's spread out over such a long period of time with so many other things constantly pushing it off the front burner, that I don't think there's any way to calculate the time involved.
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grouch

2nd subframe rail.


The second subframe rail gets the same treatment as the first.


Chain and come-along used to avoid mashing fingers.


That particular grinder is no longer made by Skil. It wore out its own brushes, the brushes from a few dead portable drills, the brushes (including the spare sets) from a couple of very cheap HF grinders and is currently running on brushes from another dead HF grinder. The thing won't die. It's gone through tens of grinder disks (I bought them in 10-packs throughout the project). Skil sells junk that is identical to the lowest rated HF grinders, now.


Pipes for the holes that go through the frame rail.


Mounting bracket for the 45 degree brace.


Matching bracket on the post.


The fin at the rear -- it's the lower portion of the backhoe rail receiver.


A 45 degree brace where the rail turns to attach to the front of the tractor. This one had to be mostly cut away, later, to provide clearance for replacing the starter.


Using a splitting wedge to try to unwarp after welding.


That band of discoloration comes from the weld on the other side of that 1/2 inch x 4 x 8 and from heating with a torch to unwarp it.

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