iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Replacement polycarbonate windows for equipment

Started by Justify008, July 01, 2017, 05:53:41 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Justify008

So I almost got my new to me kobelco sk60 excavator up and running. The previous owners have smashed and replaced with plexiglass every window on the cab. The problem with plexiglass is it's now all scratched and hazed so you can't see out of them. My skidsteer has a polycarbonate I think front door and I was in it one time when a 6 inch maple snapped and hit the door it was like slow motion I watched the door flex and return to normal no scratch no crack nothing. Does anybody know of a place I can get sheets of it or custom size pieces. I found some websites online I'll probably start calling after the holiday. Just curious if anyone else has done something similar.

Riwaka

Quality Lexan is not the cheapest window material. You might need to replace the window seals as well if changing to new lexan sheets and have metal repairs as well.
It may be possible to polish the existing lexan windows  to make them clear again.
https://youtu.be/brrzj5jejsI

As in the vid comments section - use a can of clear coat or clear film as a protector.

If doing a lot of tree work with the excavator add a  front wire mesh screen.
e.g  http://www.paladinattachments.com/Product-Details/250/Front-Window-Guard-(Excavator)#.WVgswIiGOUk

The forestry cabs are designed for  example - 12 mm thick margard from the computer cad level and often have metal bars inside the cab to stop the margard window being pushed in.
http://articles.sae.org/11797/  (Sabic Margard)

In my region - the place to start is the certifying engineer who is going to inspect the cab after it comes out of the engineering workshop and gives final approval before the inspection plate goes on the cab/ rops (paper work signed off) before the machine can go to a tree/ forestry work site.

bushmechanic

Plexiglass is crap for windows you need Lexan and Marguard Lexan is the best, anything else is a waste of money.

Gary_C

I have tried every cleaner on the market and none of it really works. Also polycarbonate is plexiglass is Lexan. It's all the same which is basically polycarbonate. Lexan is a trade name.

Check out car and home glass repair shops. There are some that carry polycarbonate and even will cut and drill to your blanks.

For machine guarding you need the heavier stuff.
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

snowstorm

after you price lexan you will be buying glass. and thats all you need. i put a lexan bottom windshield in my cat exc. i had some 1/2" that had to be cut down to 1/4" to fit in the grove .lexan with marguard is what you want to spend . and it should be bolted in. if not buy glass and save 2k

ETHURSTON

Marguard is a lexan trade name. It has a hard coating on the outside to make much  more resistant to scratching. There are many other polycarbonate brands out there with the same coating on them. The hard coat is best for any forest machine and/or a window that has a wiper.

pdxh20

BTW,

Acrylic = Plexiglass, and scratches can be easily buffed out but can it be shattered, inexpensive.

Polycarbonate = Lexan, Marguard, etc. scratches can't be buffed out but is nearly unbreakable, very expensive.

Tempered (safety) glass, must be cut to shape and then tempered, may shatter, but into "safe" pieces, very expensive.

Both types: only drill holes with bits sharpened to a long taper point, regular drills will shatter at nearly every hole.

From many years of using windows in offshore marine manufacturing...
'56 American crawler crane, Komatsu mini-ex, multiple Stihl saws, '75 IH S-8 cable skidder, 2000 F450 30' bucket truck, '95 Chev 4 x 4 2500 p/u, '05 Sprinter SHC 2500 van

tule peak timber

Pd, May I ask more about your marine background ?  thanks Rob
persistence personified - never let up , never let down

1270d

We just cut all new windows for one of our forwarders.   The product is makrolon marguard. 1/2 inch thick polycarbonate.   I traced the windows and cut them to rough size with a skill saw with a trim blade.   Then clamped the old window to the new piece and ran a router along to finish sizing.   As mentioned before we ground a drill bit at a long angle (maybe 60 degrees)to prevent chipping around the holes.   This worked well.

Thank You Sponsors!