What size wood splitter to get?

[woodworker9]

For decades, my wood splitter has been my strong back and sharp axe.  I'm 53 now, and after having spinal fusion surgery 4 years ago, it's time to start thinking about a firewood splitter.

I heat my workshop with wood, and am planning a cabin build in the near future that will also have a woodstove for heat, so split wood volume is about to go up.

I'm using hardwoods like maple, oak, ash, elm, etc.....for firewood.  I see all sorts of used hydraulic splitters rated by "22 ton, 27, ton, 35 ton, etc....."

I'm NOT going into the firewood business, but also don't want to get something undersized that won't work well.

What size range splitter, rated in tons, should I be considering?   

Thanks for your input.

[upnut]

For just homeowner use I would say a 22 ton is plenty, just take your axe-splitting experience and apply hydraulic power. Everything in this picture was split with a 22 ton TSC special, just takes time...

If you want to speed things up and bust up anything any which way, get a bigger machine. Be aware that a bigger, heavier machine will be more difficult to move around by hand. If time is of the essence, look at rated cycle times and figure knotty, gnarly pieces will take longer on smaller machines. Good Luck!

Scott B.

[Gary_C]

It's your knowledge of how to split wood that is most important, not how many tons of force you can apply.

It's like a wise old man told me about 4 wheel drive pickups. He said you can get stuck a lot farther from the main road with a 4 wheel drive pickup than you can with a two wheel drive.

[red]

Woodmizer has an interesting design , Timberwolf has the log lift even on homeowner splitters, there are flywheel design non hydraulic Super Splitter and the best for last Log Rite has  a design in progress designed for bad backs.

[woodworker9]

Thanks for the information and input, fella's. 

I'm sure the Woodmizer is a heckuva nice processor/splitter, but I'm looking to spend a whole lot less than 5 grand or so, give or take.  I have my budget eye set on spending $500 to $1000 (max) on a decent used splitter that is going to get used less than a dozen times a year for 4 to 6 hours at a time.  I just don't want to buy something too small that, after I get it home, find out that it won't split the wood I have for firewood, which is random hardwood that I either cut myself off my property or pick up at the local wood dump.

There are quite a few "homemade" splitters for sale within 50 miles of me, as well as some brands that I recognize from Farm and Fleet, Tractor's Supply, Home Depot, etc.....and I'm guessing that while perhaps not as pretty, these "homemade" versions are probably more stoutly made.  I will have to just go check 1 or 2 out to go see, and have trailer with me, ready to load.

[upnut]

I really like the looks of the Yardmax splitter, sold here at Family Farm and Home. It comes with two log cradles and four-way wedge as standard equipment, has a beefier tongue, and integral hydraulic filter inside the reservoir. And it lists $100.00 less than the basic no frills 22 ton from TSC. Here's a link:http://yardmax.com/product/gas-powered-log-splitter-full-beam/


Scott B.

[Magicman]

Much depends upon the species and number/size of the knots in your rounds.  I bought this year old 27 ton splitter LINK from a rental company for $900.  It has served me well for 6 years and with no indication of ever wearing out.  I always use non-ethanol gasoline and always "run it out" before quitting for the season.

I would think that now would be the perfect time to contact rental companies to buy units that they plan to replace.

[Ron Scott]

I've had a 22 Ton Husky from Tractor Supply for 15 years now and use it similar to your planned use which is basically home use 4-6 times per year. I literally bury it in wood and have had no problems all this time except for needing to replace one hydraulic hose which had rotted out. The machine has been left outside all these years with only a tarp over it during the winter.


 

[woodworker9]

Good feedback, again.  Thanks to all.  Some folks think their used splitters are worth 80% to 90% of new cost, so I'll just keep my eye open for the right deal.  Until then, the axe is providing a good workout, and isn't breaking anything on my body......yet.

[Al_Smith]

Keep in mind most companies embellish a little bit on  tonnage ratings .For example at 3000 PSI a 3 inch cylinder is around 10.5 tons,3.5 inch 14,4 inch 16.5 and 5 inch 29

To get 22 tons from a 4 inch it would take 3500 psi,a 5 inch for 35 tons also 3500 psi .They are factory set at 3000 or less  plus the hydraulic hose is rated for 3000 .Incidently unless they have changed Timberwolf rates their 5 inch models at 22 tons . They are honest,I'm not so sure about some of the others .

[thecfarm]

One of those at tractor supply,like Ron's or HomeDepot,Lowe's will be fine for you.
I have a 26 ton and does all I need.

[hedgerow]

I would keep a eye on craigs list and garage sales. usually a good used one comes along for a good price if someone is moving. It's a good time of the year to buy splitters.

[Greyhound]

For your needs, you absolutely don't need anything more than the generic (Speeco or Dirty Hands) 22-ish ton machine from your favorite big-box store or online site.  Look for one for $900 or less on sale.  FWIW, I spent a little more and got an Echo/Bearcat 22 ton.  It splits everything I've ever fed it.  It was nearly 2X the price for a Subaru/Robin engine vs. a Chinese Honda clone.  Probably not worth it in retrospect.   

[North River Energy]

Tonnage numbers serve as a distraction from the poor design of 'dime-store' splitters.
They speak mostly to the rate at which fuel becomes noise.

Generally speaking, as the number goes up, the rate of production goes down, given the nature of hydraulic systems, and the part where they use a moving wedge with one split per stroke.

All of the cheaper splitters are a variation on this theme, with little thought given to operator comfort/ ergonomic efficiency.

With the'Yardmax' as a convenient example, you'll notice that the wheels are in the way of easy access to the splitting chamber, and the operator will have to 'reach over' to operate the control valve while positioning the block for splitting and/or dealing with the split sections.

'Leaning forward',  while manipulating awkward weight with poor/obstructed footing, is a recipe for physical harm.

If you have not already done so, spend a few hours re-researching 'log splitters/wood splitters'  on the Utoob/Vimeo, (both here and abroad) and study the posture and movements of the operator. Most will look awkward, others will appear to move with ease.

With this consideration,

I'm 53 now, and after having spinal fusion surgery 4 years ago...

you should aim for the latter, cost notwithstanding.

Otherwise buy in your firewood. You'll find the tonnage rating to be poor comfort in the face of physical impairment.

At the very least, rent one for a day and see how you feel the next morning. Ideally, you want to become weary of splitting, not from splitting.

[BBTom]

Excellent post North River,  and one reason the "super split" type splitters are getting so popular.

[coxy]

our cub was back wards so we just turned the hydro cylinder up side down now the control is on the same side as the motor much nicer to use its 22t and I have split some nasty wood with no trouble have had it about 15-16 years put a bigger gpm pump on it as it was slower than turtle snot and 3 motors first was to lazy to put oil in it 2 was a misshape with mr john deere  the 3rd is on its way out due to not checking the OIL again a few times have tried to fire that guy but he wont go  ;D

[btulloh]

I had to replace one recently and didn't like the price (or look) of the new models.  I kept and eye out and found one that was probably 15 years old, but low mileage at a good price.  It would qualify as a 22 ton, which in the past would have seemed to small, but I got it 'cause the price was right and so was the splitter.  Turns out the 22 ton (nominal) is just fine if I leave out the big crotches and forks.  Turns out it's the best thing that ever happened to me because now I don't waste time trying to make firewood out of the gnarly stuff, and it doesn't stack well anyway. 

The best part of the older unit was that it was simpler and laid out better than the new stuff.  It won't go vertical, but that's is just fine with me.  But that's just me.

[Al_Smith]

All this talk about tonnage brings up a story .I was given a little bitty splitter with go kart tires on the back and a 4" beam with a three inch cylinder,no engine .It orginaly  had a 5 HP gas engine I replaced it with electric which was only 2.8 HP by amperage draw .Single stage pump .
It was surprising what that little toy thing would split ,knife edge,not wedge .It would go right through 36" oak rounds and never falter .Of course it wasn't fast but it certainly beat an axe .I doubt seriously if it produced 8 tons of pressure if that .
  So it's more than just tonnage because the cutter plays a very important role .My home built which is 5 inch cylinder,16 GPM pump and 11 HP Briggs has 5 inches of knife before it ever hits the wedge part .I don't run it at full throttle and it will cross cut a 12 inch piece of oak--knife edge .Speed isn't everything either ,unless you're 19 years old and trying to wear yourself out .

[upnut]

I think btulloh brought up a good point, the horizontal only units are more ergonomic friendly by their inherit design, the axle can be placed differently because the unit doesn't have to accommodate the beam tilting vertical. There are very few horizontal only units on the market, but they are worth a look. I like the Iron and Oak, have used a 30 ton Honda powered unit, impressed by the quality and workmanship of the build and design. They have a smaller unit that would fit the OP's requirements, here's a link:http://www.woodsplitterdirect.com/p/15-ton-iron-oak-log-splitter/

Scott B.

[woodworker9]

I have been looking at craigslist, and there are some reasonably decent deals that I've found on very lightly used splitters.

Question I have now is this.....I've noticed that most splitters push the log into the wedge/splitter.  Some, like a Troybilt model that appears to be almost like new and was only homeowner used for 2 years, has the wedge attached to the hydraulic cylinder, pushing against a flat at the far side.

Does it matter???

[nativewolf]

Tonnage numbers serve as a distraction from the poor design of 'dime-store' splitters.
They speak mostly to the rate at which fuel becomes noise.

Generally speaking, as the number goes up, the rate of production goes down, given the nature of hydraulic systems, and the part where they use a moving wedge with one split per stroke.

All of the cheaper splitters are a variation on this theme, with little thought given to operator comfort/ ergonomic efficiency.

With the'Yardmax' as a convenient example, you'll notice that the wheels are in the way of easy access to the splitting chamber, and the operator will have to 'reach over' to operate the control valve while positioning the block for splitting and/or dealing with the split sections.

'Leaning forward',  while manipulating awkward weight with poor/obstructed footing, is a recipe for physical harm.

If you have not already done so, spend a few hours re-researching 'log splitters/wood splitters'  on the Utoob/Vimeo, (both here and abroad) and study the posture and movements of the operator. Most will look awkward, others will appear to move with ease.

With this consideration,

I'm 53 now, and after having spinal fusion surgery 4 years ago...

you should aim for the latter, cost notwithstanding.

Otherwise buy in your firewood. You'll find the tonnage rating to be poor comfort in the face of physical impairment.

At the very least, rent one for a day and see how you feel the next morning. Ideally, you want to become weary of splitting, not from splitting.

Like your insight.  Knowing this what models would you suggest?

[thecfarm]

Depends. Mine tip down,the flat part is on the ground,the wedge moves into the wood. I have split some wood more than 2 feet across this way. Would be hard if the wedge was on the ground.

[upnut]

I have been looking at craigslist, and there are some reasonably decent deals that I've found on very lightly used splitters.

Question I have now is this.....I've noticed that most splitters push the log into the wedge/splitter.  Some, like a Troybilt model that appears to be almost like new and was only homeowner used for 2 years, has the wedge attached to the hydraulic cylinder, pushing against a flat at the far side.

Does it matter???

woodworker9- The fixed wedge splitters are horizontal only, the wedge on the cylinder splitters are horizontal/vertical....ScottB.

[btulloh]

On the smaller splitters without the bells and whistles, it's easy to rig up some things to make life easier.  A little wood catcher on the sides, a table or deck to feed rounds from the opposite side, etc.  It all depends on your setup.  I find horizontal works better for me instead of wrestling big rounds onto the end plate of a vertical unit.  Some like vertical though, so it's personal preference.  I just don't care for all the bending over. A lot of times I feed rounds from the bucket of the FEL.  (Takes a bit of precision parking to get it in the right spot.) 

If I found a good deal on a any decent splitter, I'd find a way to make it work for me.  My firewood needs are relatively small.  I think this time of year is a good time to buy splitters.  Grills in January, splitters in June.   ;D

[TimRB]

Some like vertical though, so it's personal preference.  I just don't care for all the bending over.

I split vertical so I don't end up lifting that wood again.  The first thing I do when getting set up is pick out a good-sized piece to use as a stool and place it in front of the splitter.  That way I can sit the entire time.  If I have a helper to feed me the wood (a rarity) it's downright easy.  After four or five years of doing it this way I learned not to shut everything down before splitting the piece of wood I had been sitting on.

Tim