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Author Topic: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)  (Read 6280 times)

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Offline Ga Mtn Man

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #60 on: July 13, 2017, 05:58:23 pm »
You do some first-class fab word D6c.  What are you using to cut out the parts?
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Offline Crossroads

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #61 on: July 13, 2017, 11:16:06 pm »
Looking good!
2017 LT40 wide

Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #62 on: July 14, 2017, 08:57:48 am »
You do some first-class fab word D6c.  What are you using to cut out the parts?

I have a some equipment in the corner of my shop...lathe, bridgeport, drill press, vertical saw, & surface grinder.  It's been king of nice to do a little machine work on this project.  I don't get a chance to keep my skills up like I used to and it's amazing how rusty you get after a while.

Offline Magicman

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #63 on: July 17, 2017, 06:51:02 am »
Heads up thinking there on the roller placement.I've been sawing a lot of 8' logs and the front toe roller doesn't catch the log.
D6c has that covered by mounting both of his toe boards on the inside.  The rest of us have to remember to always load short (8') logs "butt to the front".   ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

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Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #64 on: July 17, 2017, 05:13:49 pm »
I'm down to figuring out how I want to modify the side supports....lengthening the arms and adding rollers.
With raising the bed 2" the supports are a little short at about 7 1/4" above the rails.

How tall is WM building them these days?  Any thoughts on how tall I should make them?
I made a couple of slip-in extensions a while back that added 6" so if I use them they'd be around 12 1/4"

 

 


Since the supports are square tubing, I was thinking of adding a single roller on the top instead of the 2-roller arrangement I seen WM using.  Any reason why one roller won't work?

Here's what I had in mind.....
 

 


I've got all the linkage for the side supports and toe boards put together.
 

 
In case it looks like everything has gone exactly to plan...it didn't.  I made a error in measuring the center to center length of the side support cylinder.  Had it about an inch shorter than it actually is, which made the mounting bracket too long.
Not a disaster.....just had to cut an inch or so out of the middle of the bracket and weld it back together.
 

  

  

 
 Squirt a little paint on it and it'll never show.....



Offline Ga Mtn Man

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #65 on: July 17, 2017, 06:57:41 pm »
They are 11" above the bed to the tip.  Longer would be better but I'm sure you're aware that the ones on your mill aren't built as stout as newer mills, so that should be a consideration when going long.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #66 on: July 17, 2017, 07:54:40 pm »
They are 11" above the bed to the tip.  Longer would be better but I'm sure you're aware that the ones on your mill aren't built as stout as newer mills, so that should be a consideration when going long.

Thanks....I'll probably stick to about that height.  The adjustment brackets aren't real strong and I may end up having to build heavier ones if I can't keep it in adjustment.
Spent half the afternoon adjusting the side supports.  Kind of a tedious job getting them all straight & square.  Had to weld up the end of one of the pipes to get it to line up with the others.  It had been cut a little short on the end that mounts to the main frame tube.

The pipes that the side supports pivot on look to be just sch. 40 pipe and aren't very round.  It always caused a problem with getting the tension set right.  Too loose in one spot & too tight in another.
I put the supports in the mill and "bored" the outside of the pipe to make them truly round on the end.  MUCH better now....nice even tension all the way up & down.   :)

Offline Chuck White

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #67 on: July 17, 2017, 08:33:33 pm »
On my mill, with the sawhead height scale set on 11" the blade will "just" clear the uprights
~Chuck~
Retired USAF (1989), Retired School Bus Driver (2012), and now a Mobile Sawyer
1995 Wood-Mizer LT40HDG2425 Kohler - Shingle & LapSider
Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener, 4-foot Logrite cant hook.
Basic mechanical skills are all that's required to maintain the Wood-Mizer.
I LOVE MY SAWMILL

Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #68 on: July 23, 2017, 05:23:03 pm »
I'm going to call Phase II of this project complete...(adding toe boards, side stop linkage, and cylinders)
I finished up modifying the side supports and assembled all of the components (at least temporarily)

 

 

Made the side stops about 11" to top of the roller with the front support being just a touch taller than the rest to make it less likely that I'll cut into them....at least not All of them.

 

 

In the 2nd photo you can see I put blocks on the rails so the short stops are in line with the side supports.  I think newer machines are already like this.  It was necessary because the stop on the hydraulic clamp is designed in that position.  I could have modified the hyd. clamp but decided to see if this easier solution works ok.

 

 

Next up will be starting work on the hydraulics.  I've got the pump, 6-section stack valve, & hyd filter.  I need to start designing an enclosure with enough room to house the components and all the hoses etc.  I'm going to leave room for a 7th valve in case I decide to add a log lift later.   I spent part of today sorting out what hydraulic fittings and hose ends I'll need plus got a rough measurement of how much hose it will take.


Offline Magicman

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #69 on: July 23, 2017, 10:25:55 pm »
That is first class fabrication. 

Get a couple of larger pieces of square tubing ~18" long that will slip over your side supports.  Use these when you are turning (too) large logs or logs with irregular flutes.  Slip them on, turn the log, and then remove them.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Offline paul case

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #70 on: July 23, 2017, 10:59:11 pm »
I dont know why but neither of my mills have the ''cant dogs'' on the inner bed rails. I think they thought they wernt necessary  since the back of the clamp would catch a cant there. However on short logs they would be nice. You may have a ''better than new one'' when you are done.
That is first class fabrication. 

My thoughts exactly.

PC
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Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

Offline Chuck White

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #71 on: July 24, 2017, 07:25:36 am »
No idea why, but I guess they didn't put them on any of the two inner bed rails, just the main two!

I've thought about making a cant dog for each of the inner rails, but that's still "just a thought"!

Would definitely be nice when sawing short stuff!
~Chuck~
Retired USAF (1989), Retired School Bus Driver (2012), and now a Mobile Sawyer
1995 Wood-Mizer LT40HDG2425 Kohler - Shingle & LapSider
Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener, 4-foot Logrite cant hook.
Basic mechanical skills are all that's required to maintain the Wood-Mizer.
I LOVE MY SAWMILL

Offline Crossroads

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #72 on: July 24, 2017, 01:25:56 pm »
That will be a dream to run when you finish it, keep up the good
Work!
2017 LT40 wide

Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #73 on: September 24, 2017, 10:48:48 am »
Finally found time to do a little work on the hydraulic part of this project.  There is sheet metal shop nearby that does nice work with really nice laser cutting machine.  I designed up an enclosure for the valves & pump etc. and sent them an electronic file.
They cut out a flat blank and bent up the box and cover for me.

 

  

 

They couldn't completely fold up the box because of the depth but used the laser to rip a line along the bend line so it would be easy for me to fold up the ends....worked really well.  The laser cut rips were amazingly thin...less than .010" wide.

 

 

I clamped it in the hyd. press and bent it up by hand ,finished with a little rubber hammer work, and welded it together.

 

 
 

  

 

Added stiffeners, mounted it to the frame, and started getting the components in place.

 

  

 

Still have to make a cut out for the hyd. levers and an opening for the hoses to enter the main frame tube.

Offline Crossroads

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #74 on: September 27, 2017, 12:15:19 am »
You've done some nice work since the last time I checked in. I decided to upgrade in a big way last week and ordered a new LT40, if all goes well, I'll be picking it up tomorrow and be home in time to saw a 10'x12x12 cedar beam for a customer.
2017 LT40 wide

Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #75 on: September 27, 2017, 09:37:59 am »
Crossroads,
Congrats on getting a new LT-40...That will be a nice machine. 
It's interesting hearing about what others are sawing.  So much different in other parts of the country.  In the midwest the only cedar we have is eastern red cedar and very few would come close to yielding a 10' 12x12. 

Offline Carson-saws

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #76 on: September 27, 2017, 09:51:17 am »
VERY nice work Sir!  What gauge is that drive chain?
Let the Forest be salvation long before it needs to be

Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #77 on: September 27, 2017, 12:49:56 pm »
VERY nice work Sir!  What gauge is that drive chain?

If you mean the feed chain for the carriage I think it's just a #35 chain.  It's part of the factory setup....kind of light but it's never given a problem.  It used to have a loop of chain that ran full length of the mill, but there was an update to change it to a single stationary length of chain.  I think it was a safety issue and the update was to eliminate the moving chain.
The vertical adjustment uses double 35 chains and I did have one of those break once.  Good thing it has two or the head would drop.

Offline Crossroads

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #78 on: September 27, 2017, 06:07:49 pm »
Crossroads,
Congrats on getting a new LT-40...That will be a nice machine. 
It's interesting hearing about what others are sawing.  So much different in other parts of the country.  In the midwest the only cedar we have is eastern red cedar and very few would come close to yielding a 10' 12x12.
Thank you. I didn't get it today so, I had to cut the beam with the lt30. The cedar on my place is all incense cedar that someone planted along the highway about 40 years ago. There are about 80 of them that range from 12-36" dia. On the stump, but they're not very tall. I'm lucky to get 5 12' logs out of them. The interesting part is that those trees are what got me started with the sawmill a few years ago. I started with an old mobile dimension that was a loaner and a headache. Then I bought  the lt30. Got tired of cleaning up the mess on my place so, I went mobile. Now I've outgrown the lt30 and decided to step up to the LT40. All because there are a few trees on my place lol
2017 LT40 wide

Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #79 on: October 13, 2017, 07:50:11 pm »
Things have been moving along on the mill project.....Got the plumbing & wiring done in the hydraulic enclosure.  I ran all the hoses through the frame tube to get the routing worked out and cut them to length.  I pulled them out again and used my brothers hyd. hose machine to crimp all the ends.  Saves a ton of money over having them built at a hydraulic shop.  Getting the hoses threaded back through the frame once the ends were on turned out to be a bear....took about a day of fighting them to finally get them in.

 

 

The original battery box was sized for a long narrow tractor battery and since it was a manual mill there wasn't any fuse box.  I decided to rebuild the box to fit a group 31 battery and also mount a small box for a 225A mega fuse.  Found the box and fuse holder on ebay pretty reasonable.  Got some sheet stock and bent up the box, welded up the corners and made hangers similar to the way the original was made.

 

  

  

  

  

 

Space was tight on the width of the battery box.  I ended up sliding the axle assembly to the right about 3/4" in order to have enough room between the battery box and the fender bracket.

I reworked the battery & fuse box wiring.  I also had to do some rewiring in the carriage feed control box.  There were a couple of wires that were pretty well cooked and the insulation had stuck to other wires.  Fortunately nothing seems to have shorted and it still works like it should.  I up-sized the wires that had melted to hopefully prevent it from doing it again...not sure what the cause was.

 

  

 

With these last few pieces done I was able to function check the hydraulics.  Other than one small leak at a hyd. cylinder fitting it seems to work like it's supposed to.  There are still a few things to finish up before a full sawing test.
I'm going to add a guide on the drive belts to keep the pulley from dragging on the belts when the blade is disengaged.
There are still a few pieces that need a coat of primer.  I don't plan on painting the mill until I get a few hours on it and work out any bugs.
Also, for now I haven't added an alternator to the motor.  It will most likely be necessary but I thought I'd test it out a little to see it will come close to keeping the battery charged as is.
The whole mill will have to be gone over and adjustments made to be sure everything is aligned properly.
Hopefully in the next week or two I'll be able to make a little sawdust.

Here's a like to a short video of my function check...