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Author Topic: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)  (Read 4681 times)

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Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #20 on: May 21, 2017, 12:36:49 pm »
I'm curious. Why did you conform to the curved sides of the rectangular tubing instead of forcing it to flatten, or simply filling with weld?

I'm not an expert on welding but what I was trying minimize any stress added to the main frame tube due to weld shrink.  I welded the turner mounts about 2" top & bottom (both sides), leaving the center unwelded.  Because the tube is curved out it left quite a gap top and bottom that I wanted to tighten up.  Filling the gap with weld would be easy enough but I was concerned the weld shrink would pull quite a bit and put pressure on the tube and possibly cause a little warp.  The main tube is 4 x 8" but only 3/16" wall.  It's amazing sometimes how much a weld will "pull" a piece of steel when it cools.

Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #21 on: May 21, 2017, 12:40:46 pm »
Nice workmanship! Just wondering why cut the frame to fit cylinder. Unless you needed wider clamp opening. Cutting end off cylinder would quicker. Am I missing the the reason/

You'r right, it would have been much easier to shorten the 2" horizontal shaft on the log clamp.  Probably 90% of the time it would have plenty of stroke to hold the logs....just figured since it was there I'd use all the stroke it had.

Offline pineywoods

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #22 on: May 21, 2017, 03:17:31 pm »
Beautiful Beautiful job. When I bought my lt40 manual mill, I looked into doing the same thing you have done. Decided it was beyond my expertise and build a much simpler system that required no welding on the mill..But I still covet that 2 plane clamp...
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
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Offline grouch

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #23 on: May 21, 2017, 04:02:25 pm »

I'm not an expert on welding but what I was trying minimize any stress added to the main frame tube due to weld shrink.  I welded the turner mounts about 2" top & bottom (both sides), leaving the center unwelded.  Because the tube is curved out it left quite a gap top and bottom that I wanted to tighten up.  Filling the gap with weld would be easy enough but I was concerned the weld shrink would pull quite a bit and put pressure on the tube and possibly cause a little warp.  The main tube is 4 x 8" but only 3/16" wall.  It's amazing sometimes how much a weld will "pull" a piece of steel when it cools.

Makes sense. You can bring down a building with welds.

I probably would've tried clamping that sucker and making it flatten out, ending up with stress and troubles elsewhere. :D  Things I build don't have to run down the highway at speed.

Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #24 on: May 22, 2017, 05:14:47 pm »
Today I worked at mounting the power strip and electrical contacts.
First got the strip in place.
 

 


This older mill didn't have the mount for the positive contact so I had to extend the bottom of the carriage to create a place to mount it.
 

 


Squirted a little paint on it and bolted up the + contact....
 

 


The negative contact took a little more work.  There have been enough changes in the framework that the factory bracket won't work (or not real well) so I made up a replacement.

Factory bracket...

 


Replacement bracket: Flat plate with supporting legs.  Ended up moving the mounting holes for spring bolts inward so the springs would apply a decent about of pressure on the contact.  As you can tell I'm going to have to do a bit of polishing up on the bottom guide rail to get it to make a good connection.  Sure would be nice if it was made out of stainless.....or was at least painted from the factory.
 

 


I also added a front end carriage stop....probably not that necessary but I didn't like the way the first thing that was hitting was the cam follower that guides the chain up around the carriage drive sprocket.....Would hate to break it off.
 

 



From the discussion above about occasionally needing hydraulic power part way through a log......it occurs to me that it would be a simple matter to add one, or even two, more power strips down the length of the frame to have power towards the far end.  Would be easy enough to braze/solder the strips together.

I don't really see much of a safety issue with doing that.  I was figuring on installing a momentary switch at the hydraulic controls that you have to hold down to get power to the pump.....as soon as you release the switch, the pump would stop.

Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #25 on: May 22, 2017, 05:17:42 pm »
Now I think I'll turn my attention to building a pair of roller toe boards.  Probably would be ahead to just buy them from WM, but where's the fun in that?

Can anyone tell me how far above the bed rails the rollers are in the full up position?

Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #26 on: May 22, 2017, 05:31:00 pm »
One think I forgot to mention back up the thread.....when building closed tube frames, like the mods I was doing on this mill, it's always a good idea to drill a drain hole in the bottom of the closed frame tubes.  It's amazing how water can find its way in a tiny pinhole or around a bolt, fill the tube with water, and then freeze and swell it up.

The axle framework on this mill is made of 2 x 2 that's fully closed, except for where the mounting bolts go through.  Both tubes are swelled on one end and cracked in a couple of places.

Offline slider

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #27 on: May 22, 2017, 07:37:30 pm »
Nice work D6c.You will love the roller toe boards when you start using them.
al glenn

Offline 47sawdust

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #28 on: May 23, 2017, 05:52:16 am »
Nice work.I added the toe rollers to my mill(manual LT30),very handy to have.If someone doesn't chime in sooner I will get some measurements after work today.
 Your mill should be called the born again Mizer.No offense intended to anyone for using the phrase out of context
 Had a little time....top of rail to top of roller is 4".
 Keep up the great work and thanks for taking us along.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #29 on: May 23, 2017, 09:01:32 am »
Nice work.I added the toe rollers to my mill(manual LT30),very handy to have.If someone doesn't chime in sooner I will get some measurements after work today.
 Your mill should be called the born again Mizer.No offense intended to anyone for using the phrase out of context
 Had a little time....top of rail to top of roller is 4".
 Keep up the great work and thanks for taking us along.

Thanks for the measurement....a little taller than I was guessing.

Offline Ga Mtn Man

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #30 on: May 23, 2017, 02:56:11 pm »
And even at that height, sometimes not tall enough.  The taller the better.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Offline 50 Acre Jim

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #31 on: June 11, 2017, 07:31:34 am »
Nice job D6C and thank you for sharing with us.  Obviously it takes a lot of time to document all this, adding pictures, etc.  One question, why did you start with an old mill?  Couldn't you have just fabricated one out of a paper clip or something? 
Constantly reinventing the wheel...

Offline Crossroads

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #32 on: June 12, 2017, 04:41:07 am »
Very nice work! Your gonna love turning log with a 6" lever versus a 6' lever ;) I built the pineywoods log turner/clamp and powered backstops and love it. I need to beef up the clamps for the backstops though, it's seems they weren't designed to hold up to hydraulics. Also, I went with the gas engine. I extended the tongue by 3' and set the engine on it at a 45* angle then used an expired scba air tank for the hydraulic tank. The engine runs at an idle until I need power, then simply rev it up and do my thing.

Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #33 on: June 12, 2017, 08:06:56 pm »
Nice job D6C and thank you for sharing with us.  Obviously it takes a lot of time to document all this, adding pictures, etc.  One question, why did you start with an old mill?  Couldn't you have just fabricated one out of a paper clip or something?

Kind of feels like I started from scratch...

Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #34 on: June 12, 2017, 08:29:42 pm »
Very nice work! Your gonna love turning log with a 6" lever versus a 6' lever ;) I built the pineywoods log turner/clamp and powered backstops and love it. I need to beef up the clamps for the backstops though, it's seems they weren't designed to hold up to hydraulics. Also, I went with the gas engine. I extended the tongue by 3' and set the engine on it at a 45* angle then used an expired scba air tank for the hydraulic tank. The engine runs at an idle until I need power, then simply rev it up and do my thing. (Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

Looks good Crossroads.  I've been wondering how my old style backstops are going to hold up....might have to do some mods on them if they give trouble.

Got the hyd. cylinders for the backstops and toe boards today.
 I've done some CAD work to design the linkage for the backstops.  I'm only powering two of them for now until I prove it out.  If needed, I may power the other two later, but since they swing in the opposite direction I can't just hook them to the linkage.  I've sort of worked out a chain & sprocket arrangement that would drive the 2nd pair off the first...it has the chain running around opposite sides so the rotation is reversed.  Timing is critical since when the adjacent stops swing down they will hit each other unless one leads the other a little.
Toe boards are partially designed too, except for the mounting bracket.  Had to wait until I got the cylinders to be sure of the dimensions.

Work on the mill has been set aside for a while because I'm working on getting a new  tractor mounted pasture sprayer set up, but I'm already having to modify it a little bit to make it work like I want.  I'm also adding GPS mapping & a sprayer controller to the tractor so I'm having to figure that out.  Might be a steep learning curve.


Offline Crossroads

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #35 on: June 13, 2017, 10:49:27 pm »
I extended the backstops 2" to compensate for the 2" I raised the bed. I also notched the top 1" at a 45* then bent the front edge back so the logs would slide off better. The actual backstops are plenty strong, it's the upside down V shaped piece that adjusts the friction on the inside end of the tube that seems flex. With the hydraulics on them, there is no Ned for the friction to hold the stops up so, my plan is the build a new bracket with a piece of pipe to sleeve the end of the stop. I'm curious how close you can cut to the bed, now that you put the 2" lift kit on. I ended up notching the rails where the adjustment set crew is under the sliding guide roller arm. Even at that the bottom of the roller bracket hits the rails at about 1 7/8".

Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #36 on: June 14, 2017, 09:08:23 am »
I extended the backstops 2" to compensate for the 2" I raised the bed. I also notched the top 1" at a 45* then bent the front edge back so the logs would slide off better. The actual backstops are plenty strong, it's the upside down V shaped piece that adjusts the friction on the inside end of the tube that seems flex. With the hydraulics on them, there is no Ned for the friction to hold the stops up so, my plan is the build a new bracket with a piece of pipe to sleeve the end of the stop. I'm curious how close you can cut to the bed, now that you put the 2" lift kit on. I ended up notching the rails where the adjustment set crew is under the sliding guide roller arm. Even at that the bottom of the roller bracket hits the rails at about 1 7/8".

I made a couple of slide in extensions for the stops but I plan on making a more permanent modification.  Possibly putting an angle on like you did or maybe some rollers similar to what WM does now.
Not sure what the difference is between your guide clearance and mine....with the 2" I raised the rails I'm now able to cut down to 1" thick.  The first thing that would hit is the blade guard on the movable guide.

Offline Crossroads

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #37 on: June 15, 2017, 06:46:52 pm »
That little round low spot that I'm pointing at it the first place that hits in mine. The blade is loose in the picture, but the head is set at 2"

Offline D6c

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #38 on: June 16, 2017, 09:06:29 am »
Looks like your guard hangs down quite a bit more than the one on mine.  The first thing to hit on mine is the strap that mounts the movable blade guard right under the roller.  I would think you could either modify your guard or see if you can get one more like what I have.  ('87 LT-40 Manual)

 

 

Offline Crossroads

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Re: LT40 Mods...Phase I complete (pics)
« Reply #39 on: June 16, 2017, 09:58:00 am »
I'll get a picture from the other side. It looks like the movable arm is completely different. Mine is square tube that slides inside of another square tube like a trailer hitch receiver.