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My cheap diesel drip

Started by Mt406, May 17, 2017, 10:17:43 AM

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Mt406

I know there is some debate on diesel drip.
I had to do some thing 80 percent of my wood is dead standing bug kill pine.
lots of pitch sticking to blade causing trouble and clean up time before sharping.
Water and pinesol works but not as well. For blade heating but to much make saw dust swell add to friction heat build up.
Some times working on remote sites I don't have access to more water than the 5 I carry.

Parts list

Tank and shut off valve  5$ at small engine repair
4 ft    5/16 fuel line don't remember cost
needle valve and hose barb compression fitting 12-15$
Inline filter 2$
12 inch coper tubing I had in tool box and old hose clamps
felt pad came form old horse blanket

One drip every 5-6 seconds is all it takes. I mix mine 50-50 diesel to bar oil.




  

  

 

Ox

Well done.  For these dead, pitchy pines nothing beats diesel or kerosene.  You can save your bar oil - it don't seem to make a bit of difference in my experience.  :)
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

OlJarhead

Heat is a problem for me on dry wood but I don't have a sap problem.  I use Pine-Sol and Dishliquid in water and pour it on but I hear what you are saying about remote milling.  I can get away with pouring the water on in places I have lots of water access but sometimes all I have is the 10 gallons I carry.

Not sure I'd try Diesel but some day it helps with the heat
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

grouch

I use the same mix -- 50/50 diesel and bar oil -- dripping on the blade as it exits.

Now a scientific analysis of what works best. I am on my 4th blade. OlJarhead probably goes through that many before lunch. Therefore, ergo, hence, ipso facto, the only logical conclusion is that my way must be the One True Way. You can't argue with science and numbers.
Find something to do that interests you.

KirkD

Thinking out loud here... Anyone ever tried spray on Silicone or Teflon on the blade to reduce friction?
Wood-mizer LT40HD-G24 Year 1989

Joed

I cut a lot of white pine. I spray WD40 on the blade if I see it is starting to build up pitch. Doesn't take much and the blade cleans on the next cut.
Valley Big Green Monster

Kbeitz

Quote from: KirkD on May 17, 2017, 05:01:05 PM
Thinking out loud here... Anyone ever tried spray on Silicone or Teflon on the blade to reduce friction?

I think that would make the blade slip right off the wheel.
You don't ever want to use that stuff around anything your ever going to paint.
It might also mess with wood working stain and varnish type stuff.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

OlJarhead

Quote from: grouch on May 17, 2017, 04:56:38 PM
I use the same mix -- 50/50 diesel and bar oil -- dripping on the blade as it exits.

Now a scientific analysis of what works best. I am on my 4th blade. OlJarhead probably goes through that many before lunch. Therefore, ergo, hence, ipso facto, the only logical conclusion is that my way must be the One True Way. You can't argue with science and numbers.

How many BF per band?  And yes I can go through 4 in a half day but usually that means I'm around 1600-2000bf so far ;)
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

thecfarm

Looks good. I don't use any felt,just a drip. I use 2 shut offs,one to adjust the flow,I can leave that one alone when I get it just the way I went and one to turn the drip off and on.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

grouch

Quote from: OlJarhead on May 17, 2017, 05:43:13 PM
Quote from: grouch on May 17, 2017, 04:56:38 PM
I use the same mix -- 50/50 diesel and bar oil -- dripping on the blade as it exits.

Now a scientific analysis of what works best. I am on my 4th blade. OlJarhead probably goes through that many before lunch. Therefore, ergo, hence, ipso facto, the only logical conclusion is that my way must be the One True Way. You can't argue with science and numbers.

How many BF per band?  And yes I can go through 4 in a half day but usually that means I'm around 1600-2000bf so far ;)

Lemme see... easier to count trees than board feet. There was the skinny poplar tree and the mimosa and a gum and the red elm and the maple and another maple and a red oak. Oh and another gum in there somewhere along with part of a white oak. Can I count wavy boards as more BF? Might have pushed the first blade a tad too long.

4th blade as in 4th ever.  ;D

But the numbers! They say my method uses fewer blades!
Find something to do that interests you.

bandmiller2

I have quit using diesel or kero, they go in the engine. When I change hydraulic oil or ATF I save them let sit anything unsavory settles to the bottom. Don't use engine drain oil that has bad products of combustion and can stain. Best applied with a wick no drippage or loss. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

OlJarhead

Quote from: grouch on May 17, 2017, 07:16:26 PM


4th blade as in 4th ever.  ;D

But the numbers! They say my method uses fewer blades!

Ever?  LOL and no wavy don't count! Well, maybe ;)

I've done 4 hrs on one band milling about a dozen fir logs up....but those were small tops.  Can't count logs because a dozen of the logs I did last weekend would make about 3600bf but a dozen of the ones I did last summer in Republic would make about 600bf  -- so I don't count logs anymore at all.  Don't scale them either.

On a side note I did about 125bf of Walnut in a short log just a bit ago.  Started on a 10 degree (cause it was there) and it went dull fast so I swapped it with a 4 degree and it made nice lumber to the end (probably dulled the 10 in the first 40bf)....

Must have hit something and that was an old dry log too but the 4 didn't care and I cut back on lube with it too....seems more lube in those means more mess and more heat sometimes....funny that
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

grouch

Quote from: OlJarhead on May 17, 2017, 09:31:16 PM

Must have hit something and that was an old dry log too but the 4 didn't care and I cut back on lube with it too....seems more lube in those means more mess and more heat sometimes....funny that

Dry log chips suck up water, get big and get in the way?

I have an U.W.A.G. that under some conditions the lube helps trap sawdust in the gullets (by swelling and gluing the particles together?) and that leads to excess heat. It's the reason I moved my drip to the exit side of the blade -- it cools, cleans the blade and wheels, but is too dispersed by the time the blade comes back around to the log to clog the gullets. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Find something to do that interests you.

Sixacresand

To apply diesel occasionally, I use a shop oil pump mounted near the head elevation control lever.  Then connected a neoprene tube, which its end is zip tied next to stock lube applicator. 

These posts about milling dry logs have been interesting, especially concerning blade heat.  Mine got so hot last week, even with water lube wide open, I could see smoke from the wheel belt.  I immediately shut down, let cool, retension the blade.   I think if I had been lubing with diesel at the time it may have blazed up.  I Was using a brand new wm 4 degree blade.  I am going to replace both wheel belts because they smell burnt.
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

Kbeitz

I'm new to bandsaw milling. But on most circler saw's if the blade runs hot
it's time to add more set to the blade. Would not that help a band blade?
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

kensfarm

Kbeitz I would say increasing the set would help if that was the reason the band was heating up.. in general they are saying that on dry logs the water is causing the sawdust to swell and stick in the gullets and the diesel/oil drip doesn't cause that to happen.

MT406 nice job.. and a nice looking mill too.  Instead of felt I've been trying square cut pieces from the scotch brite sponges w/ a "scrubby" side.. can't say it helps more or less.. just testing w/ something different.

Kbeitz

More set more space in the gullets for more chips... Right?
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Mt406

Kbeitz

I think you can get to much set and spill chips out the gullet onto the body of band creating friction heat.
If you get to much water there the chip will swell adding to the problem.
Last month I had a resaw job some old DF beams some of the hardest and pitchy stuff I have sawn.
I tried some of the blades I sharpened I still green with sharping I think I over set some of the blades.
If you push to hard the saw dust would spill out the gullet and would be ejected across the full with of blade.
Slow down it would move to the front of blade. But then you wernt loading the blade to get bigger chips.
Being that it was realy pitchy it was sticky when hot add to much water it turned to a sticky paste.
The diesel kept it for sticking to blade. But the blade would get hot lose temper and off on walk about it would go.
I didn't think a blade could turn that sharp.

That's my theory I still have a lot to learn when it comes to sharpening

Scott     

MbfVA

 New to this, but I'm wondering what the difference in the effect on the wood is going to be from diesel fuel, oil of any type other than something designed for wood, and silicone spray called for a foul by another poster?  Chemically, they're all kind of no go for wood that is to receive any sort of finish, aren't they?   Maybe there some sort of magic to this that I don't know about?

We have beautiful oak floors in our historic restaurant building, and I know that in order to refinish those floors, we would have to sand the living daylights out of them.  They have received many coats of wax and other kinds of polish, organic chemical based, that is, over the 31 years we've owned this place.   Polyurethane just will not stick to a floor w any trace of wax, come hell or high water.
www.ordinary.com (really)

Mt406

You only use a drip every 5-6 seconds, I have used it on my pine trim in my house and haven't had any finishing problem's
Most of my wood is ranch utility.
so far no complaints on any that go in any construction.
There is no real hard wood here in 4 years I have only cut one Ash log about 8in and 6 ft long.
And its still sitting here called the guy 3 times.
It also leaves the bands clean oiled and ready to sharpen.

Scott 

justallan1

I like the set-up you have MT406, but would add another valve so you have one for flow and one to shut it off. (I did only see one, right?)
For pine, and especially for fire killed pine, I use pinesol, a little dish liquid and water. In the cold weather I trade out the water for sub zero windshield washer fluid so it doesn't freeze when I'm not using it. Right now is a great time to stock up on the winter grade washer fluid.
Although I have zero experience using any kind of silicon spray or teflon, my first thought on using it would be what it would cost me.
My thoughts on sawing dry stuff is to keep a fresh band on the mill and don't wait until it takes 3 men and an ox to push the saw through the log. I feel on dry pine and utility poles that the sawdust is lots finer and to much coolant just causes it to ball up, therefore causing heating issues. I run a slow drip and add some when I see pitch buildup on the band.

Mt406

I have 2 valves on mine one is a needle valve about a foot above the blade.
I am going to move the one under the tank over near the engage lever .
were it is now its behind control box when at the bottom of log.

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