WM Lap sider?

[OlJarhead]

Thinking of picking up a lap siding attachment.  I've had a couple customers ask about doing lap siding and for the cost I'm thinking it might be worth it.

Thoughts?

[PC-Urban-Sawyer]

An ARKY Resaw jig (see https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,11160.msg154508.html#msg154508 would make lap siding and would be very economical and cost effective...

[WLC]

Here is another option for you to at least look at.  http://bevelsider.aksawmill.com/wp/

And a youtube video of it in action: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJ7lHfRUPkM

[OlJarhead]

Twice the cost of the WM option though

[GAB]

Twice the cost of the WM option though

I watched the video and was upset that they stopped where they did.
To me the left over, or bottom piece, using the SLR is very thick especially when cutting shingles.
I was hoping in the video that they would go as far down as they could.
Gerald

[Chuck White]

I have a WM SLR, but haven't used it yet!

I've read in the manual that the bottom piece will be 2" thick

I'm planning on using the SLR later this Summer to cut lap siding for the siding on my front porch!

Small project and good place to play with the "learning curve"!

[WV Sawmiller]

Erik,

   Be sure to verify the specs to ensure it will do what you need. If I remember correctly 12' is the max length and you have to cut the cants first then load them separately so think about how are you going to do that. Good luck.

[GAB]

I have a WM SLR, but haven't used it yet!

I've read in the manual that the bottom piece will be 2" thick

I'm planning on using the SLR later this Summer to cut lap siding for the siding on my front porch!

Small project and good place to play with the "learning curve"!

Mr. White:
I have used mine and the block clamps when you hit one with the blade it is just like hitting a log stop.  That blade is done for the day.
If you start at the top of you block, and depending on the thickness of your material, the last piece could be thicker than 2".
I did not find it in the directions but you need to use two different thickness drops when cutting tapered material.  In my case I was using 5/32" and 17/32".
Good luck and I do suggest you not be in a hurry and get lots of patience at the pharmacy.
Gerald
Gerald

[78NHTFY]

Oljarhead...my 2 cents + pics
Got some good advice here on clapboards last year & happy to share my results (have a manual LT40).  I cut about 40 beveled claps 3/8" thick at bottom from 6 1/2" cants, all from white pine.  Just used a U-shaped iron shim on each end while cutting: shim, cut, loosen log clamp, remove shims, tighten log clamp, cut.....  Took awhile and managed 10 - 15 claps per cant.  Then, (I think it was recommendation of T.Rogers), simply cut non-tapered 3/8" claps: dropped blade 1/2" each time and cut.  Why?  Much faster and easier.  The real benefit, as you can see in the pics below, virtually no wibble wobbles in the non-tapered 3/8" claps.  I stickered both sets of claps and air dried for 4 months.  The tapered claps cannot be pressed down on the tapered edge with stickers, whereas the non-tapered claps can be.  Probably lost 25 - 30% of the tapered  claps to the wibble wobbles.  I will be using the straight claps on my house (new addition) and the good tapered ones will be used to replace old claps on another building.  The finish on all claps is rough sawn, so I used my random orbital sander to smooth the face surface (too much work!) to match the existing building.  When I make more, I will add 1/16" to the cut thickness and run the claps through my planer for a smooth finish.  Moral of the story?  Spend zero money on an attachment.  You make a better product and it's faster/easier.  And your customer be happier as he will have fewer losses after they are stickered & dry.  This is just my experience with white pine.  Other wood may be different.  My bro who's a builder says the non-tapered claps can also be nailed above the 4" line which hides nails & makes for a better look.  And, almost forgot, you end up with a 1" board at the bottom, good for a trim board.  8)All the best, Rob.


 .  Side view = nice and flat.  ;D

 ; claps are stained brown; used old left over semi transparent stain for the back.

  the tapered clapboards: many are badly warped.   

[porcupine]

I have a WM SLR, but haven't used it yet!

I've read in the manual that the bottom piece will be 2" thick

I'm planning on using the SLR later this Summer to cut lap siding for the siding on my front porch!

Small project and good place to play with the "learning curve"!

Mr. White:
I have used mine and the block clamps when you hit one with the blade it is just like hitting a log stop.  That blade is done for the day.
If you start at the top of you block, and depending on the thickness of your material, the last piece could be thicker than 2".
I did not find it in the directions but you need to use two different thickness drops when cutting tapered material.  In my case I was using 5/32" and 17/32".
Good luck and I do suggest you not be in a hurry and get lots of patience at the pharmacy.
Gerald
Gerald

I have had mine (SLR) for 4 years, used it once...I agree with Gerald but would add - count to 10 before you start getting upset on how it use it effectively.
It's leaning up against the wall in the mill house taunting me. "Want to try round 2?"

[OlJarhead]

Hmmmm....first take is 'not now'.

Second is 'use them green' -- then no problem with the issue of stickering ;)  Just cut them over and account for shrinkage.

But I like just making them thinner and that's what I've done with live edge siding.

[paul case]

I wonder why you couldnt clamp something like a wedge to the toe roller and tilt the cant and let it down flat with that. The roller misses by like 3/8 on a cant anyway. It might be a little difficult to stop in the same spot every time but I bet you could get real good at it.

Just thinkin out loud again!

PC

[Dave Shepard]

 I've been using full thickness clapboards like a Dutch barn. Looks great, easy to saw. Couldn't find the pic.

[Peter Drouin]

I have used mine to make 6" clapboard with it. I make the cants ahead, then put them on. Start down till I get an inch to the pith, then flip it come down till I get to 2" and stop. I have a 2x6 with the pith. When I cut them with the pith in them, I find they make good wood to start the wood stove.  ;D 

[red]

I had one and it was difficult to move. To heavy for just me .

[Kbeitz]

Something like that looks so easy to build. I would tale a length of 8"
channel iron and make center pivots. Then drill screw holes to screw
the log fast to it. Hook a 12volt actuator to it to flip from side to side.
Ready to go...

[Darrel]

I have one and have used it.  More work than it is worth. It may be ok for shingles haven't tried that yet.

Making tapered siding is much easier without the SLR. in 9 easy steps.

1. Make cant of appropriate size.
2. Raise cant with toe boards.
3. Place 1/2" shim under outboard edge of cant
4. Lower head 3/8"
5. Make cut
6. Remove shim
7. Lower head 7/8"
8. Make cut
9. Repeat

Note, you can use different size shims and different thickness of head drops to meet your needs.

[Chuck White]

Couldn't tell from the pics or videos, but wondering, when they're being nailed on, which side of the clap-board do you put against the building, the 90° edge or the other edge?

[woodweasel]

   Got a brand new wm lapsider leaning against the wall in my shop, as well as a lathe mizer  still on a pallet. One day I will try them out. ;D ;D

[petefrom bearswamp]

Chuck if memory serves you have had that thing since 2011.
Before that I had it since 2001 I never used it.
It came with the mill you now have.
Never had a call for tapered lap siding only Adirondack also known as brainstorm siding.
I like the 3/8 idea if I ever get an order.

[red]

Like most things , when all else fails read the directions.  Woodmizer had sent me a pdf file of the instructions.  Then everything just fell into place.

[campwags]

I have the Timber King lap siding jig and have yet to use it.  I was told at an open house how some guys just place a long piece of wood under one edge and make a cut then remove the stick and make the next cut.   ???

[Chuck White]

Sounds good Pete!

Still hanging on the wall in the back of my garage!