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Blades, rusty

Started by Tony, April 25, 2017, 07:48:35 PM

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Tony

     Had some blades returned today from the fellow who sharpens my blades due to rust,  ::) never had this problem before.  Do ya'll use any spray/wipe on stuff when you take the blade off the mill to prevent rust?  ??? ??? Sometimes my blades will sit a couple of months or more before taking them to him. ::) ::)

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TK1600, John Deere 4600 W\frontendloader, Woodmaster718 planer\moulder, Stihl MS461 Stihl 036 & 021 & Echo CS-370
"You cannot invade the mainland United States.  There would be a rifle behind each blade of grass."  Adm. Isoroku Yamamotto ( Japanese

Kbeitz

I have gotten rusty blades from the junkyard. Never had a problem with them.
They shine up real fast.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

cutterboy

I spray mine with WD40 if I'm not going to use them for a while. Works good.
To underestimate old men and old machines is the folly of youth. Frank C.

boscojmb

I try to keep my blades clean, but I end up forgetting blades at the the mill once and a while and they end up spending the night outside in the rain.

Other than ending up with brown, stained gloves, the rust does not effect the sharpening process (Cats Claw sharpener).

I have never seen a performance change in rusty vs clean blades and the rust wears off after the first cut.

I suspect if the blades stayed outside for months they may be unusable.

I hope this helps.
John B.

Log-Master LM4

Ox

He returned them because they were rusty?  Hmmm.  If I only sharpened shiny blades I wouldn't have anything to sharpen hardly!  :laugh:  Rust don't hurt a sharpener.  I'm not sure what the problem is here.

I had a problem last year.  I sharpened a bunch of blades and left them hanging in the shop.  They rusted up over the winter of course and the next spring I didn't get hardly any use out of them at all.  The rust got to the tooth tips and wore off almost immediately with the first cut leaving a dull tooth.  It sucked having to resharpen around 10 blades without even 100 bf on them. 

I now spray down the blades when I'm done with them with a 50/50 mix of ATF and kerosene through a regular Zep hand spray bottle you find in Lowes.  It's cheap to make and is my all purpose penetrating oil and rust preventative and saves me lots of money and works perfectly for every application and you only need to use 1 thing.  I call it Panther Pith*  ;)

I'm guessing if you did this and brought the slightly oily blades to your sharpener he'd reject them due to the oily residue.  Some people are just too........dainty.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Chuck White

I sharpen my own blades, and when I finish sharpening them, I wipe them down with a rag dipped in ATF.

Some think that running a rusty blade through a couple of logs will remove all the rust, well, not on my mill.  I sharpened some rusty blades for a friend, then put one on my mill and sawed two good sized logs just to see if they would be clean when finished, and the blades are still rusty when they finish sawing for the day, not as bad though but still rusty!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

YellowHammer

As Ox says, I've seen rusting of a sharp bands degrading the chisel edge and corners of the teeth causing premature dulling.   

However, I don't know why someone wouldn't sharpen a moderately rusty band, I've done it, and I didn't notice any problems.  As a matter of fact, I sharpened a few of them so I could use them, and at the same time take the rust off in the logs while sawing.  The rusty areas under the set didn't really clean up, but the main body of the band would come out OK. 

At the Resharp in Ga, they have a rig with a bunch of motorized wire wheels that scrub every band before it gets sharpened. 

I use an oil/water emulsion (cotton picker spindle cleaner) for band lube and don't have to worry about rust anymore.  The bands come off the mill looking brand new and lightly coated in oil.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

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