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How to cut wedges

Started by Bigsticks, April 18, 2017, 05:21:54 PM

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Bigsticks

Hello men, I hope you are all doing well, it's hot already isn't it. I need some advice as to how one would go about producing wedges for a steel company, measuring 2.5"x5.5"x6.5". The steel ppl use them so the steel utility poles don't role off the dunnage I cut for them, but for the life of me I can't decide the best approach. They need 1800 every other month, so if I need to buy a vertical band saw and diagonally cut squares, I will. Is this the only way??
Browning Sawmill~Woodmizer LT50 super hydraulic

Joe Hillmann

If you wanted to do it on the sawmill.  I would cut boards  that are 2 1/2 by 5 1/2 and the length of the log.  Then I would cut the boards to 6 1/2 length then build a sled that fits on the mill that holds the block so one end is 2 1/2 above the other.  Make the sled so it can hold maybe 20 blocks at a time.  It would only take about 50 8 foot long boards and about 45 passes cutting the angles with the mill to make 1800 wedges.

WV Sawmiller

   I thought this was a case of someone forgetting to lower the toeboard again. I think most of us have made some real long wedges that way.

   I worked summers in a paper mill and we used them (wooden wedges) to brace rolls of paper shipped on their sides. We also had to have a notch on the squared end so we could nail them to the floor of the truck or box car. We'd also nail a short 2X4 against them to help make sure they stayed in place.

   Joe's suggestion sounded reasonable to me. I like the idea of making 2.5" X 5.5" boards then cutting to 6.5" lengths. Then just cut them in half diagonally on the mill or with a chop saw or radial arm saw or such. No matter how you do it that last cut is going to be the hardest. Good luck.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Kbeitz

Tilted coal shoot made out of wood.
Every time you cut the end off it would slide down ready for the next cut.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

red

Long wedges are known as Diving Boards
Honor the Fallen Thank the Living

fishfighter

Years ago, I worked at a steel mill making pipes. Wedges were used, but we cut them on a big chop saw that had a bracket made. It was a home made shop saw. Taking a 6x6 that was 8', one would cut blocks that were around 6" long. Then once one had a bunch, there was another slot to were one would drop the block in place and cut it at a 45 angle. Sure as hell was not safe at all. :o Saw many blocks fly. :o

Larry

I remembered watching a video of a Cooks re-saw making shingles.  I think the same method might work for making your wedges.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMrd4AHf7cE

Yes, you could also do it on a vertical bandsaw.  A jig to hold the block and stock feeder would speed production.  With a demand for 1,800 blocks I would really explore the re-saw method first.

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Bigsticks

I wish I was a smarter man, in the fact that I can not figure out how to post photos. I've watched the tutorial and tried, but it always seems to assume that I know a step that I do not! I have a Morgan double head resaw I bought last month, but I'm waiting on Alabama power to bring 3 phase to mill, the resaw has 2 40hp motors, and the beast has 4" wide band blades! I'm exited about running it. I thank you for your suggestions, today I go to try them out. Will get back to you on how she goes!
Browning Sawmill~Woodmizer LT50 super hydraulic

Magicman

The pictures are in your Gallery so you have done most of the steps already.  When making a reply scroll down and click the blue line that says Click here......

Now wait for the uploader to load and then click on "My Gallery" which will bring up your pictures.  Now click on the chosen picture and then scroll down and click "Insert image in post", and then OK.

The picture's address will be copied into the reply.  Now click "Preview" (next to Post) and scroll up to view how your reply will look.  You can now scroll back down and make any changes that you want to make before actually making your post. 

Also remember the "Modify" button when viewing your actual post. (top right)  It allows you to go back and correct any mistakes that you see.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

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Revival Sawmill

Quote from: Joe Hillmann on April 18, 2017, 05:33:06 PM
If you wanted to do it on the sawmill.  I would cut boards  that are 2 1/2 by 5 1/2 and the length of the log.  Then I would cut the boards to 6 1/2 length then build a sled that fits on the mill that holds the block so one end is 2 1/2 above the other.  Make the sled so it can hold maybe 20 blocks at a time.  It would only take about 50 8 foot long boards and about 45 passes cutting the angles with the mill to make 1800 wedges.

Could you cut the board described (2.5x5.5"), then tilt it up 2.5" on one side, and rip the whole board on the mill so you end up with two wedges the correct profile but as long as the log?  Then you'd just need a chopsaw with a stop...?

D6c

Quote from: wooddust on April 19, 2017, 10:52:27 AM
Could you cut the board described (2.5x5.5"), then tilt it up 2.5" on one side, and rip the whole board on the mill so you end up with two wedges the correct profile but as long as the log?  Then you'd just need a chopsaw with a stop...?

This sounds like a pretty good solution.....just make an angled fixture to hold your 2.5" x 6.5" cant at 21° and saw it corner to corner....then chop saw to 5.5" pieces.

Joe Hillmann

Quote from: wooddust on April 19, 2017, 10:52:27 AM
Quote from: Joe Hillmann on April 18, 2017, 05:33:06 PM
If you wanted to do it on the sawmill.  I would cut boards  that are 2 1/2 by 5 1/2 and the length of the log.  Then I would cut the boards to 6 1/2 length then build a sled that fits on the mill that holds the block so one end is 2 1/2 above the other.  Make the sled so it can hold maybe 20 blocks at a time.  It would only take about 50 8 foot long boards and about 45 passes cutting the angles with the mill to make 1800 wedges.

Could you cut the board described (2.5x5.5"), then tilt it up 2.5" on one side, and rip the whole board on the mill so you end up with two wedges the correct profile but as long as the log?  Then you'd just need a chopsaw with a stop...?

Then the wedges would be cut across the grain and would be very easy to break.

D6c

Quote from: Joe Hillmann on April 19, 2017, 04:43:34 PM
Quote from: wooddust on April 19, 2017, 10:52:27 AM
Quote from: Joe Hillmann on April 18, 2017, 05:33:06 PM
If you wanted to do it on the sawmill.  I would cut boards  that are 2 1/2 by 5 1/2 and the length of the log.  Then I would cut the boards to 6 1/2 length then build a sled that fits on the mill that holds the block so one end is 2 1/2 above the other.  Make the sled so it can hold maybe 20 blocks at a time.  It would only take about 50 8 foot long boards and about 45 passes cutting the angles with the mill to make 1800 wedges.

Could you cut the board described (2.5x5.5"), then tilt it up 2.5" on one side, and rip the whole board on the mill so you end up with two wedges the correct profile but as long as the log?  Then you'd just need a chopsaw with a stop...?

Then the wedges would be cut across the grain and would be very easy to break.


....good point.

Revival Sawmill

Depends on which way the board was oriented in the log

Bert

A shingle mill is what you need. Around here (coal country) they are called wedge machines.
Saw you tomorrow!

WV Sawmiller

Bert,

   Very good catch. I have a neighbor about 1/4 mile away with a wedge mill and I used to sell him wedge blocks (cross cut sections off a log) and he sold the wedges to the mines. Has not been a market for them for many years and I sure wish there was as he was a good market for uppers and big limbs. My neighbor wanted soft wood like poplar, pine spruce, etc but others in the area would buy anything. Most of what I sold were 12" long but sometimes he had customers that wanted 15" or 16" wedges. I did not like that as made for heavy blocks. They would buy anything 6" in diameter and up.

   I had not thought about a mill like his making wedges for steel or paper mills but seems to reason they could. I guess I thought they had to be longer and thinner but that is just because that is what I had seen my neighbor cut. I think most he cut were a little over an inch thick.

   I have high hopes with recent changes in coal and other environmental regs that the mines will go back to work and my neighbor will go back to cutting wedge blocks and I'll have a market to salvage some tops instead of just using them for firewood (which I have plenty of) or burning in brush piles.

   I would bet if someone asked around he could find one of these old wedge mills that has been sitting around idle for a while available and in good shape at a good price. I know if I ever have any inquiries about wedges I will be talking to my neighbor and see if we can't work a deal with me providing the blanks and him cutting the final product.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Bigsticks

Cutting the wedge the hole length of the log from the 2.5"x5.5" would only produce one wedge the correct size no,? right in the taper to where it reaches the intended target size would it not? The way I saw that possibility, the remaining ends wouldn't be in tolerances. There isn't one specified, but I can't send out something way wacky!
Browning Sawmill~Woodmizer LT50 super hydraulic

Brad_S.





I no longer a mill professionally but when I did, I made this jig (like Joe Hillmann described above) to cut wedges. The ones I needed to cut were 4" wide, 12" long and needed to taper from 2" to zero. The first step was to turn a log into a 2x4's and then cut the resulting boards into 12 inch pieces.

The jig sits on the bed of the mill and gets clamped using the mill clamps. Two blanks would get set in each compartment side-by-side and a little crank  clamp would secure them. I would fill all the slots and then run my bandsaw down the jig at a predetermined height. It took a while to figure out the correct angle for the jig plates and the bandsaw height setting.

I don't know if this method would be adaptable to your shorter sections. For the quantity you were looking at, some sort of endless belt feed through a bandsaw or resaw might be in order.  I only had to make about 600 every couple of months and it was a task I never looked forward to.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." J. Lennon

WV Sawmiller

Brad,

   That's a real slick looking jig. Looks like a lot of thought went into designing it. I hope you got a lot of use out of it.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

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