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WM sharpener

Started by xlogger, April 12, 2017, 07:05:00 AM

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xlogger

I'm in the thinking process of getting a WM 250 sharpener. I've got a drag one now and not really happy with my results. Would like opinions on anyone who upgraded to one from a drag sharpener. I've pm Cuttingedge about wheels and fluid for it if I decide on one. I sharpen some blades last night and change the wheel on my drag to the white wheel to see if I get better results. If that don't work I'm ready for a change.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

EZ

I sharpen litely twice, and sometimes if the band needs it I'll run it again.

4x4American

Buy one of Richard's grinders and then tell me how you like it.  You can use mineral oil for lube on the cbn.
Boy, back in my day..

gmmills

    I have upgraded from a drag style WM blade sharpener to a CBN grinder many years ago. I will never consider going back to a vitrified wheel drag style sharpener. Glad to here you are aware of the alternative CBN wheel manufacturers. I have been using Rixsaw CBN wheels for over 3 years now. Great durability and over all wheel life. A very high quality product. Not sure if you know there is now more than one manufacturer offering a oil cooled full profile CBN wheel sharpener. Ironically, I just took delivery of a new CBN sharpener this week. A CBN sharpener makes maintaining the exact tooth profile extremely easy. 
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
WM LT70D62 Remote with Accuset
Sawing since 1995

Peter Drouin

A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

xlogger

After changing my wheel over to one of the white wheels my blades are doing better. So for now I'll save that $2000 ;D.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

JD Picket

Quote from: 4x4American on April 12, 2017, 07:53:27 PM
Buy one of Richard's grinders and then tell me how you like it.  You can use mineral oil for lube on the cbn.

I'm kinda new to all this so I don't know who Richard is. Right now I'm in the shopping phase of looking for a sharpener. Just trying to find out what all of my options are.

Thanks
JD

xlogger

Richard is Cutting edge on the forum.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

xlogger

Question for ones that have a cbn sharpener. With the new cover that wm has do you still get much oil mist? The area that I would use one is not very ventilated.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Percy

Quote from: xlogger on April 24, 2017, 08:12:06 AM
Question for ones that have a cbn sharpener. With the new cover that wm has do you still get much oil mist? The area that I would use one is not very ventilated.
I purchased aBM250 last year. Love it. I don't get much mist in my shack but I refuse to use that 150 dollars per pail oil that they say I should use. Been running Hydralic oil and it works great. Same wheel since I got it.
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

xlogger

I order it today and got the wheel from Richard. Looking forward to have sharper blades I hope.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Peter Drouin

Good for you, 8) 8) The WM sharpener works well, When you see how good a job it does, you will never use a rock wheel again, Unless you want to skip it over water to see how far you can go. ;D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

xlogger

it came in Friday now to put it up. I got a heavy built tv stand with drawers off craigslist to sit it on. 

 
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

terrifictimbersllc

I've had the BMS250 for over a year now. It is a superior machine. To the previous LTAGA shop series grinder. Never had a drag grinder but I expect to that also.  I really like it.  It is refreshing to get a tool so well thought out.

Once you set the pusher for a given profile all you need to adjust is the blade height to get the same grind each time.  Each "star" on the blade height adjustment knob is about 7 thousandths in height.  So if you measure blade widths with a caliper, you can just sort them and make a calculated slight adjustment with the wheel to go from one to the next making each setup very easy.

You won't want to use this machine in an unventilated space, imo. It should be very easy to rig dryer vent hose and small fan to exhaust it outside if you want to use it in a fixed location.  I have mine on a Craftsman tool cart and just push it over to the edge of the garage and sharpen with the door open.  The housing contains spray but a fine mist still makes it outside.

ps. don't turn on the power with the pump and grinder motor turned on and the grinder head set in the up position.  You will find out why for yourself soon enough.  ;D
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

xlogger

The area where I was going to use it at is near the back of my shop about 30 ft from garage door. I was hoping that a fan behind it pushing air away would be good enough. A tool cart might be a good idea if this dosen't work.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

terrifictimbersllc

I would think even a gentle air flow across the sharpener would move the mist away, that's what's happening at the garage door.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

xlogger

Any ideas where this parts go?  I didn't see anything about them in book.

 
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

4x4American

The one on the left is a blade template thing it tells you what profile blade you have.  Not sure about the one on the right, almost looks like some kinda shield or viewing window or something
Boy, back in my day..

Cutting Edge

xlogger,

The black component is for aligning the motor arbor and clamp to ensure they are 90 deg. to each other and to also make sure the clamp/wheel surface meet at the correct geometry so the blade is being ground square in the vertical plane.

All (3) of the preset bolts must make contact with the front surface of the clamp.  Once aligned you should be good to go for a long time.  It is nice to check from time to time though.   ;)
"Winning an argument isn't everything, as long as you are heard and understood" - W.S.


Cutting Edge Saw Service, LLC -
- Sharpening Services
- Portable/Custom Milling and Slabbing
- On-Site Sawmill Maintenance/Repair Services

Factory Direct Kasco WoodMaxx Blades
Ph- (304) 878-3343

xlogger

Thanks Richard, it looks like the motor is set at a 19° angle if I'm looking correct. I might give you call if that would ok.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

xlogger

Quote from: Peter Drouin on April 25, 2017, 06:28:43 AM
Good for you, 8) 8) The WM sharpener works well, When you see how good a job it does, you will never use a rock wheel again, Unless you want to skip it over water to see how far you can go. ;D
You might be right. I've sharpen and used about 5 blades now and they cut good. I've still got more to learn with it. I'm having trouble seeing the wheel coming down on the blade with the oiler housing attached to to wheel housing right in the way. Any tricks on that? I would think unscrewing the oiler housing would be a pain on each blade.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

xlogger

I've been using the new sharpener now for over a month and love it. Blades are sharper and last longer cutting. One thing I do when setting up the blade is mark a couple teeth with a paint pen just before they go into the wheel and watch them as they come out to make sure the blade is set just right under the wheel. If paint is off all of the grind I know it set right. Most of time I don't have to advance or back off setting.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Peter Drouin

I use ink to mark the blade to see how I'm doing. Just 5 or 6 teeth


 
And when I do grind, I like to leave a little bur on top of the tooth
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

terrifictimbersllc

Once the BMS250 is set to give a uniform, and certain depth of grind, for example 6 thousandths, the only adjustment needed is that of blade height.   Until one changes to a different profile wheel.

Blade height adjusted higher for a narrower band and lower for a wider band. Either band is exactly at the same place because of this blade height adjustment, to the sharpener any difference is adjusted out by the blade height knob.  One increment (e.g. "point"), on the star wheel height adjustment raises or lowers the blade by about 7 thousandths of an inch.   

On the other hand changing the "pusher" to push a little farther forward or not as far, results in getting a uniform grind, but at a different depth than before it was changed.

So, for a given depth of uniform grind,  the "pusher" adjustment is really the depth of grind adjustment, and the blade height adjustment is what controls whether there is too much back grind or face grind.  This is opposite what might seem to be from the description in the manual.

Another way to say it that once the BMS250 is dialed in for a uniform grind at a certain depth (making the band thinner by a certain desired amount say 6 thousandths), then if one sees (by use of layout dye) that the back of the tooth, or the face of the tooth is not ground completely (either still red), then one corrects this by either lowering or raising the blade, respectively, a little, NOT by changing the pusher setting.

Like Bibbyman and others in earlier posts on previous CBN grinders, I have taken to measuring width of band before sharpening with a digital caliper, and adjusting the blade height up or down depending on what the width of the previous band was. If they are the same no adjustment of blade height is necessary.  If the blade to be sharpened is thinner for example by 4 thousandths than the one before, then I raise it by about 1/2 of an increment on the star adjustment knob. I also paint 10 teeth each time and check that the grind is good after 2 or 3 teeth.  Red on the back of a tooth, raise the band a little more.  It is difficult to measure blade width exactly with a caliper because one has to measure the narrowest part of the gullet and also hold the caliper at exactly the same 90 degree angle to get it right.  If I sort blades roughly by width first then these adjustments are very minor and the entire setup time blade to blade is probably less than a minute, with pretty high success rate that the blade gets sharpened properly without further attention.

When using a digital caliper one can also check the actual depth of grind (before and after grinding, i.e. outgoing tooth vs. incoming tooth.  This changes when going back and forth between wheels because one has to change the pusher setting for the new wheel.

My comments apply only to the BMS250, not to the LTAGA shop series grinder.  The adjustments differ on the latter.

I hope this is useful to anyone operating the BMS250.  Took me a while to see these things and to appreciate how well designed the BMS250 is.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

terrifictimbersllc

Quote from: xlogger on May 09, 2017, 01:37:55 PM
Quote from: Peter Drouin on April 25, 2017, 06:28:43 AM
Good for you, 8) 8) The WM sharpener works well, When you see how good a job it does, you will never use a rock wheel again, Unless you want to skip it over water to see how far you can go. ;D
You might be right. I've sharpen and used about 5 blades now and they cut good. I've still got more to learn with it. I'm having trouble seeing the wheel coming down on the blade with the oiler housing attached to to wheel housing right in the way. Any tricks on that? I would think unscrewing the oiler housing would be a pain on each blade.
I use a bright little LED flashlight. I open the cover and look at the tooth from the left side down low.  There is a vantage point where the tooth can be seen. Best to flip off the advance and especially the oil before opening the cover.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

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