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Author Topic: WM sharpener  (Read 2821 times)

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Offline xlogger

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Re: WM sharpener
« Reply #20 on: May 09, 2017, 01:37:55 pm »
Good for you, 8) 8) The WM sharpener works well, When you see how good a job it does, you will never use a rock wheel again, Unless you want to skip it over water to see how far you can go. ;D
You might be right. I've sharpen and used about 5 blades now and they cut good. I've still got more to learn with it. I'm having trouble seeing the wheel coming down on the blade with the oiler housing attached to to wheel housing right in the way. Any tricks on that? I would think unscrewing the oiler housing would be a pain on each blade.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Offline xlogger

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Re: WM sharpener
« Reply #21 on: June 17, 2017, 06:59:28 pm »
I've been using the new sharpener now for over a month and love it. Blades are sharper and last longer cutting. One thing I do when setting up the blade is mark a couple teeth with a paint pen just before they go into the wheel and watch them as they come out to make sure the blade is set just right under the wheel. If paint is off all of the grind I know it set right. Most of time I don't have to advance or back off setting.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Online Peter Drouin

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Re: WM sharpener
« Reply #22 on: June 17, 2017, 10:52:29 pm »
I use ink to mark the blade to see how I'm doing. Just 5 or 6 teeth
 

 
And when I do grind, I like to leave a little bur on top of the tooth
2008 LT40 super,2008 edger, Cat telahandler, JD 5410 And can cut up to 45' long
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And a license NH soft wood grader.
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Offline terrifictimbersllc

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Re: WM sharpener
« Reply #23 on: June 18, 2017, 11:56:46 am »
Once the BMS250 is set to give a uniform, and certain depth of grind, for example 6 thousandths, the only adjustment needed is that of blade height.   Until one changes to a different profile wheel.

Blade height adjusted higher for a narrower band and lower for a wider band. Either band is exactly at the same place because of this blade height adjustment, to the sharpener any difference is adjusted out by the blade height knob.  One increment (e.g. "point"), on the star wheel height adjustment raises or lowers the blade by about 7 thousandths of an inch.   

On the other hand changing the "pusher" to push a little farther forward or not as far, results in getting a uniform grind, but at a different depth than before it was changed.

So, for a given depth of uniform grind,  the "pusher" adjustment is really the depth of grind adjustment, and the blade height adjustment is what controls whether there is too much back grind or face grind.  This is opposite what might seem to be from the description in the manual.

Another way to say it that once the BMS250 is dialed in for a uniform grind at a certain depth (making the band thinner by a certain desired amount say 6 thousandths), then if one sees (by use of layout dye) that the back of the tooth, or the face of the tooth is not ground completely (either still red), then one corrects this by either lowering or raising the blade, respectively, a little, NOT by changing the pusher setting.

Like Bibbyman and others in earlier posts on previous CBN grinders, I have taken to measuring width of band before sharpening with a digital caliper, and adjusting the blade height up or down depending on what the width of the previous band was. If they are the same no adjustment of blade height is necessary.  If the blade to be sharpened is thinner for example by 4 thousandths than the one before, then I raise it by about 1/2 of an increment on the star adjustment knob. I also paint 10 teeth each time and check that the grind is good after 2 or 3 teeth.  Red on the back of a tooth, raise the band a little more.  It is difficult to measure blade width exactly with a caliper because one has to measure the narrowest part of the gullet and also hold the caliper at exactly the same 90 degree angle to get it right.  If I sort blades roughly by width first then these adjustments are very minor and the entire setup time blade to blade is probably less than a minute, with pretty high success rate that the blade gets sharpened properly without further attention.

When using a digital caliper one can also check the actual depth of grind (before and after grinding, i.e. outgoing tooth vs. incoming tooth.  This changes when going back and forth between wheels because one has to change the pusher setting for the new wheel.

My comments apply only to the BMS250, not to the LTAGA shop series grinder.  The adjustments differ on the latter.

I hope this is useful to anyone operating the BMS250.  Took me a while to see these things and to appreciate how well designed the BMS250 is.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT   2001 WM LT40SHDD (42HP Kubota, Accuset2, FAO's, Lubemizer, debarker, hydraulics everywhere), Peterson WPF 10-30 with chain slabber. LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.

Offline terrifictimbersllc

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Re: WM sharpener
« Reply #24 on: June 18, 2017, 12:20:01 pm »
Good for you, 8) 8) The WM sharpener works well, When you see how good a job it does, you will never use a rock wheel again, Unless you want to skip it over water to see how far you can go. ;D
You might be right. I've sharpen and used about 5 blades now and they cut good. I've still got more to learn with it. I'm having trouble seeing the wheel coming down on the blade with the oiler housing attached to to wheel housing right in the way. Any tricks on that? I would think unscrewing the oiler housing would be a pain on each blade.
I use a bright little LED flashlight. I open the cover and look at the tooth from the left side down low.  There is a vantage point where the tooth can be seen. Best to flip off the advance and especially the oil before opening the cover.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT   2001 WM LT40SHDD (42HP Kubota, Accuset2, FAO's, Lubemizer, debarker, hydraulics everywhere), Peterson WPF 10-30 with chain slabber. LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.

Online Peter Drouin

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Re: WM sharpener
« Reply #25 on: June 18, 2017, 05:12:13 pm »
I also like to look at the face after I sharpen the blade while it goes by.
 

 
See all the light on the left, that's from 2 work lights. [Halogen] handing from the ceiling.
With that you can see it all.
Looking at the face of the tooth you will see the point of the tooth.

 
A better pix of the face, left, of the pencil.
 
2008 LT40 super,2008 edger, Cat telahandler, JD 5410 And can cut up to 45' long
http://www.forestryforum.com/sanbornton     NH Timberland Owners Association supporter.
And a license NH soft wood grader.
Sawing since 1987

Offline 4x4American

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Re: WM sharpener
« Reply #26 on: June 18, 2017, 05:42:32 pm »
One thing that the filer at the grade mill showed me to check how good you have it is you get the blade so it's on a long straight run then you take a little mirror and line it up so it's looking down the tips of all the teeth and they should all make a straight line or something like that.  I think he said he does like 7-8 passes on a blade with the grinder.  I asked him why they don't use a cbn and he said ahhh that stuff is for blades that need crazy accuracy he says ohh just the regular turn of the century old technology plunge grinders do a fine job he was going on an old boy rant lol
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Offline xlogger

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Re: WM sharpener
« Reply #27 on: June 18, 2017, 06:41:11 pm »

Thanks all for the help and advice. I know there is more to learn on the sharpener but I'm really happy with the results I've got. TTimbers, what you said does sound right, I'll remember that next time I think it needs adjusting.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Offline xlogger

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Re: WM sharpener
« Reply #28 on: November 11, 2017, 09:26:53 am »
i went down to sharpen a few blades this morning and decide on cleaning out metal. I did lift the pump motor up and check on it, couldn't see anything there. After cleaning the pump ran but would not pump oil thru the line. I added some oil just in case but still no luck. Anyone had this problem before?
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Offline Kbeitz

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Re: WM sharpener
« Reply #29 on: November 11, 2017, 11:58:07 am »
i went down to sharpen a few blades this morning and decide on cleaning out metal. I did lift the pump motor up and check on it, couldn't see anything there. After cleaning the pump ran but would not pump oil thru the line. I added some oil just in case but still no luck. Anyone had this problem before?

If it's a brush DC motor it could be running backward if wired wrong.
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Offline terrifictimbersllc

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Re: WM sharpener
« Reply #30 on: November 11, 2017, 12:53:30 pm »
The pump can lose its prime.  Either disconnect the hose from the pump and let it fill with oil, or figure a way to suck on the end of the hose to draw oil up through the pump.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT   2001 WM LT40SHDD (42HP Kubota, Accuset2, FAO's, Lubemizer, debarker, hydraulics everywhere), Peterson WPF 10-30 with chain slabber. LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.

Offline RIMwood

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Re: WM sharpener
« Reply #31 on: November 11, 2017, 02:36:51 pm »
How many times can a blade (1 1/4") be sharpened?
I have always sent my blades to WM to be sharpened. With shipping almost $10/blade, I would have to send out 450 blades to equal the cost of the sharpener and setter combo (Im guessing $4500 by the time shipping, wheel, oil, and what ever else). A few mentioned getting sharper longer lasting blades with this setup. Im sure I would sharpen more often if I had my own sharpener, no more pushing through the last cuts trying to get a few more cuts on the blade before I had to send it out. Just curious, how many sharpening do you folks do in a year?

Offline xlogger

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Re: WM sharpener
« Reply #32 on: November 11, 2017, 04:30:04 pm »
I walk by it on the way in today and look at it again. Cut it on and it work fine :o
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Offline terrifictimbersllc

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Re: WM sharpener
« Reply #33 on: November 11, 2017, 07:34:50 pm »
From the amount of metal I remove maybe 8-12 times. Most of mine break or hit metal and get trashed usually before they lose 0.1" in width.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT   2001 WM LT40SHDD (42HP Kubota, Accuset2, FAO's, Lubemizer, debarker, hydraulics everywhere), Peterson WPF 10-30 with chain slabber. LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.

Offline Chuck White

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Re: WM sharpener
« Reply #34 on: November 11, 2017, 09:25:53 pm »
I usually get 10-12 sharpenings per band, once in a while I'll get as many as 20!  Not necessarily a full-profile sharpening, just so the tooth is sharp and I don't get overly concerned with the gullet.  I saw mostly White Pine and Hemlock and average around 800 bf before I see a need to change the blade!

I bought my sharpener and setter in June of 2009 and by mid 2010 it had amortized out and I considered it paid off.  In reaching this point, I had sharpened 350 blades (mostly mine), that was guestimating a sharpening fee of $7.00 per band.
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