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Author Topic: Best blade on the Market !!  (Read 2919 times)

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Offline gmmills

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #20 on: April 12, 2017, 11:13:28 pm »
     I have been using WM double hard 7 deg turbo blades and Kasco 7 deg blades. In the next few weeks I will hopefully be using Kasco blades exclusively. The over all quality control of WM blades in the last 2 yrs has been extremely poor. It does not seem to be improving. Years ago WM blades were second to none. This can no longer be stated. The quality control of Kasco blades is very consistent.
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Offline Percy

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #21 on: April 13, 2017, 12:21:20 am »
Im a fan of the turbo tall tooth Woodmizer blades. Specifically the 13 degree and the 7 degree blades. You need a mill with hormones to run these but if you got the ponies, these are the blades IMO.
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Offline LeeB

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #22 on: April 13, 2017, 06:36:07 am »
Have not tried Kasco. I've used most of the others and always go back to WM. Got any samples?
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, Ford 851 tractor, JD 3032 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton and 2005 1 ton Dodge 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #23 on: April 14, 2017, 07:14:25 am »
Perhaps I lack sophistication but I have a hard time telling the difference between the half dozen brands I've tried. They have all given me good service. In A lineup I would choose Suffolk  Timberwolf. Most of them likely get their band stock from the same steel mill or at least the same specs. Its all in how well they are set and ground, of course after the first sharpening the ball is in my court. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline Sixacresand

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #24 on: April 14, 2017, 08:19:24 am »
I have only used WM and of them I prefer the 4d.  I tried a Kasco sample blade once  but hit a nail in the first pass, so I can not give an opinion on that brand.

Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #25 on: April 14, 2017, 10:54:58 am »
   WM and their resharp. I have tried 4,7, 10 and turbo 7 blades. I use the 10s in poplar but 4s in most everything else even pine and spruce to prevent wave at the knots. As I phase out my 7s I am replacing with 4s and may eventually just settle on 4s for everything. I'm not trying to break any speed records which seems to be the main reason for the blades with more angle.

   I like WM auto refill and auto replace to keep the same number of blades in my pool and replacements come at the discount/quantity purchase price.
Howard Green
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Offline kensfarm

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #26 on: April 15, 2017, 09:59:35 pm »
I've have been really happy using Cook's Super Sharp DuraTooth Blades 8 degree..  they stay sharp and can take being pushed.. extra tension.. no problem.  I like them even more because I have a new Cat's Claw sharpener and setter..  gloves are not optional.. man are they sharp. 

Offline Chuck White

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #27 on: April 16, 2017, 08:35:35 am »
You'll like that Cat Claw sharpener, Ken!

I usually use the Wood-Mizer 10 bands, but once in a while I'll resharpen one or two of them to 8 when I get into Spruce or certain of the hardwoods!

Making that adjustment on the Cat Claw sharpener only takes a couple of minutes!

I keep one blue rock profiled to 10, and one profiled to 8, and marked accordingly!
~Chuck~
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Basic mechanical skills are all that's required to maintain the Wood-Mizer.
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Offline kensfarm

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #28 on: April 16, 2017, 09:12:38 pm »
Thanks Chuck!  I had struggled w/ the shipping/sharpening cost vs buying a new blade.  I'd always buy a box of 20.. try to get the free shipping deals..  I had small fortune of once used blades so that was my Christmas/Bday present to myself.  Once I thought I knew what I was doing..  just sharpened 3 blades.. and on the 4th I forgot to tighten the blade down.  That sharpener will grind a tooth down to a nub as fast as it would sharpen it.. we live and learn.   ;D

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #29 on: April 17, 2017, 08:12:31 am »
Ken, there is a learning curve sharpening and setting bands. Every time you sharpen a band its putting money back in your pocket. You will find you won't run bands as long between sharpening's. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline Magicman

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #30 on: April 17, 2017, 08:27:27 am »
You will find you won't run bands as long between sharpening's. Frank C. 
So are you saying that if someone uses Resharp that they will run bands longer?  Duller?  Certainly not so for me because I change the band at the least sign of dullness.  Resharpening is a very small expense of sawing and the cost is recouped in the sawing fees just like fuel and traveling.
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Offline drobertson

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #31 on: April 17, 2017, 09:42:01 am »
I took it to mean one may pull it sooner as to keep the band in better sharpening condition? Not because bad performance .
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Offline Magicman

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #32 on: April 17, 2017, 10:32:01 am »
Is there a difference between "better sharpening condition" and "bad performance"? 

I realize that we are splitting hairs (old saying), because a blade is never sharper than when it is first installed.  Any blade that is not sharp is in the beginning stages of dull and the sawyer determines when not sharp is dull.

Blades are similar to us:  The moment that we begin to live, that moment also we begin to die.

My question/comment to bandmiller2 was directed toward economics since he replied to kensfarm's reply regarding the economics of resharpening.
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Offline Deese

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #33 on: April 17, 2017, 11:35:50 am »
I can see it from both perspectives...kinda. I'm not sure which direction is more economical, and I think it depends on the individual's situation.
If I sawed as much as MM does, then the LAST THING I would want to do is spend more time sharpening/setting bandsaw blades. UGH. JMO.

But I can see where sharpening your own blades can be beneficial in other situations. I run a low HP manual mill and do not have much experience with any other sawmill other than my 13hp mill, so I can only comment based on what I know. My little sawmill obviously doesn't have a debarker, and I've often wondered how much that would extend the life of my blade before becoming dull. A sharp blade will literally pull itself through the log for a while, then you find yourself slightly urging the carriage down the track, then there comes a time when although the blade is still cutting straight, you notice that you are pushing the blade through. That's when I know it is time to change blades. Since I've finally got my blade guides properly adjusted and everything aligned properly, I believe I could keep on sawing straight until the blade broke. I don't know how far I could actually push the blade before it failed. These are just my thoughts--with a hydraulic mill, you aren't pushing the carriage down the track, so you don't know that more force is required to push the blade through the log as the blade begins to "dull". Obviously MM is correct about the blade gradually becoming dull--never as sharp as when you first put it on the mill. I've often wondered how long I could push the blade on my mill before it is actually being pushed too far...I mean, the darn thing is usually still cutting straight when I pull it, but it's just not as "eager" go pull itself along. It's something that gradually happens, and because of this, I don't realize the difference until I slap a fresh blade on. Does this make sense to you guys?

The sharpener costs a lot of money, so I don't know which way is the most economical. It takes time to sharpen/set them.
Sawed 4 years with EZ Boardwalk Jr 13hp. 2004 LT40 Super 51HP, 1975 Case Tractor, Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener, Cooks Single Tooth Setter, Stihl MS 440, Stihl MS 250, 60" Logrite

Offline Chuck White

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #34 on: April 17, 2017, 11:39:53 am »
Ken, there is a learning curve sharpening and setting bands. Every time you sharpen a band its putting money back in your pocket. You will find you won't run bands as long between sharpening's. Frank C.

To add a little to what Frank is saying, here goes!

When you have your own sharpening equipment, you are not quite so pressed into getting all you can out of one sharpening, so therefore you pull the blade as soon as you see that it's slowing down in the cut!

If you send your blades out to be resharpened, you would seem to have the tendency to get all you can out of it before pulling it!

If the blade is pulled as soon as it shows signs of getting dull, it might only take a light pass on the sharpener and it may be as good as new!

Hope this clarifies things a little!
~Chuck~
Retired USAF (1989), Retired School Bus Driver (2012), and now a Mobile Sawyer
1995 Wood-Mizer LT40HDG2425 Kohler - Shingle & LapSider
Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener, 4-foot Logrite cant hook.
Basic mechanical skills are all that's required to maintain the Wood-Mizer.
I LOVE MY SAWMILL

Online ladylake

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #35 on: April 17, 2017, 11:55:22 am »


  One of my best customers used to have a mill that sawed for him that used resharp, he said that operator would leave the blade on the mill for 700bf no matter how it was sawing. I had to resaw quite a bit of his lumber if it was thicker, my customer said he had to throw some away as it wouldn't plane out to 3/4".  Steve
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Offline LeeB

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #36 on: April 17, 2017, 12:01:37 pm »


 A sharp blade will literally pull itself through the log for a while, then you find yourself slightly urging the carriage down the track, then there comes a time when although the blade is still cutting straight, you notice that you are pushing the blade through. That's when I know it is time to change blades. Since I've finally got my blade guides properly adjusted and everything aligned properly, I believe I could keep on sawing straight until the blade broke. I don't know how far I could actually push the blade before it failed. These are just my thoughts--with a hydraulic mill, you aren't pushing the carriage down the track, so you don't know that more force is required to push the blade through the log as the blade begins to "dull".

Actually not totally true. I tend to lean on the control console a little and slightly push as the mill saws along even though it has power feed. I can tell when the blade is dulling. You also learn how much to turn the speed control and you notice that you have to turn it more as the blade get's duller. Kinda like manual brakes and power brakes. You develop a feel for either one.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, Ford 851 tractor, JD 3032 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton and 2005 1 ton Dodge 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Offline Magicman

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #37 on: April 17, 2017, 12:47:27 pm »
When you have your own sharpening equipment, you are not quite so pressed into getting all you can out of one sharpening, so therefore you pull the blade as soon as you see that it's slowing down in the cut!

If you send your blades out to be resharpened, you would seem to have the tendency to get all you can out of it before pulling it! 
Absolutely not true, (at least in my case) but I can not speak for others.  Blade resharpening cost should never be a factor regarding changing blades.  If the blade is showing signs of dullness, either visually or lumber quality, then the blade needs changing.

As Steve pointed out, anyone that is set on getting maximum (and beyond) from each blade is sawing less than quality lumber.  He needs more than a blade change.  He needs a mentality change or he is out of business.

Without question (from me anyway) the economics heavily favor doing your own sharpening/setting.  Also, being able to fine tune the set for different species and sawing conditions weighs heavily toward self sharpening.

My personal business decision regarding resharpening is based on the fact that I consider and always have considered my business as part time and when I am not sawing, I am not resharpening, I am off.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Offline Deese

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #38 on: April 17, 2017, 12:49:23 pm »
LeeB, yes sir that makes sense. I was just thinking out loud, and I should have rephrased that statement in the form of a question since I have no experience with power feed. Assumptions can often times get us in a mess!  ::) :D
Sawed 4 years with EZ Boardwalk Jr 13hp. 2004 LT40 Super 51HP, 1975 Case Tractor, Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener, Cooks Single Tooth Setter, Stihl MS 440, Stihl MS 250, 60" Logrite

Offline Magicman

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Re: Best blade on the Market !!
« Reply #39 on: April 17, 2017, 12:59:20 pm »
Actually we each have our niche and sawing market.  I tend to answer questions and make statements that are true for me and may not fit some other sawyers experience with the same situation. 

This is the beauty of the Forestry Forum.  Glean what fits your situation, discard the chafe, and tuck the remainder away for future reference. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman