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Alaskan Sawmill - using a 20" bar on 36" width log

Started by DgoDrummer, April 01, 2017, 12:54:45 PM

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DgoDrummer

newbie sawyer here from Durango CO... I'm learning loads reading through these threads but have not seen the question addressed that I'm trying to answer.

First, the details: got several ponderosa pine sections to mill... all 12' long... 36" is the widest of about 5 sections of the 100'+ tree. My Timbery band sawmill will handle 24" max. I got an alaskan chain saw guide used from a buddy a long while back, though never used it. Got a Stihl MS290 (3.8HP/56cc) chainsaw w/ 20" bar, just ordered (3) WoodlandPRO ripping chains for it. Since my bar is only 20" (and I understand that I will actually get a bit less than that using the alaskan guide, right?)
Since I have only a few of these width logs to cut, and seeing I'll never haul these size longs again on my trailer (that was scary!), I do not want to buy a new chainsaw or hire someone to do it. I called around, No one rents a saw bigger than mine around my town, let alone w/ a ripping chain on it. So, I'd like to do this with my Stihl MS290.
I suppose I'm asking for advice, thoughts, and ideas on this proposed method, OR a better way to go about getting these logs down to 24"?

Idea 1:  (EDIT: duh, my alaskan mill will not allow this as it must attached to end of bar... ARRRG)
Make a cut from either side of the log to complete the slab cut (same level cut). Make first cut, shim on side of first cut; small shims that won't get in way of second cut on other side of log.
Am I asking for kickback or other issues trying this method, seeing as the end of the bar will be cutting inside log and not sticking out other side, as I push through log? Must the bar protrude through the log as I cut? I suppose this is the big question.

Idea 2: Could I make several diagonal cuts. Requiring more cuts. It's not like I have to have a perfectly flat cut on log, I just need it to fit in the bandsaw mill.


Idea 3: ideas I have not considered... from y'all

Jesper Jepsen

I would go with a vertical version of the alaskan, https://granberg.com/product/g555b-mini-mill/ and then make a cut with the Alaskan mill you got and then cut 90 degrees down until you can have it on the bandsaw mill

Jesper

DgoDrummer

Thanks for the idea Jesper. Have not seen one of those smaller units.
     I think after some weekend research, considering the small saw I have trying to do big saw cuts, and talking with a buddy who says I outta just have big saw for big logs anyways, that I'll start shopping for a bigger saw. it will solve this entire issue and allow me to handle large logs down the road. Even though the smaller ones are SOOO much easier to handle.

mad murdock

Welcome Dgodrummer, and FWIW, I have milled a bit with an Alaskan, on both my Husky 372XPW, and on an 075 Stihl.  The biggest cut I have done is about 24-26"wide, I have done more dimension milling with it rather than slabbing.  There is no substitute for cc's when it comes to trying to tackle larger cuts.  One thing I have told others that I have done which improved or reduced  the reliance on more cc's is changing the chain to Stihl's 63PMX ripping chain.  It takes a 1/4" kerf vs a 3/8" kerf of standard chain, and thus produces less waste, and also reduces the power needed to pull the chain through the cut.  Logosol uses this chain on all of their mill setups, and it is a good upgrade, IMO.  I saw a good 25-30% increase in feed rate over the 3/8" chain. I would strongly consider it, you will need to use a new drive sprocket and a new sprocket nose on your bar, if you do switch, as the picco chain is .365" pitch vs 3/8"x.375 on std 3/8" chain.  Also the gauge is .050". the difference in the pitch between .365" snd .375" is small enough that a new drive sprocket (rim), and new sprocket tip on the bar will allow the chain to wear in to the picco chain and you will have no issues.  I have milled thousands of board feet with mine and it has worked very well!
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

PineHill4488

I'm wrestling with similar issue 48" red oak at the butt cut, 36" Granberg  just not quite enough although my MS660 and 36" bar are. I'm quartering the log lengthwise and it will fit the bandsaw, toot suite.
Fall 2013 purchased Stihl MS 660 and an Alaskan 36" mill, am happy with the setup, hobbyist not a volume producer, have milled oak, hickory, yellow pine, and power poles.

sandsawmill14

when i have to saw big logs i just saw in 1/2 or 1/4 depending on how big the log is  :) i have sawn several 50"+ logs on our little b20   

  

  here is how i do it

i have a bigger saw and bar but with your saw just saw straight down the top and roll the log over and finish cut from the bottom side :)

you can always get a bigger saw later if you get enough trees that size to need it :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

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