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prepping new lumber for drying

Started by DDW_OR, March 25, 2017, 03:47:29 PM

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DDW_OR

since my setup is stationary I am thinking of making a board prepping machine consisting of a roller conveyor, then an air box, then a spray for Powder Post Beetle, then a second conveyor.

Air box to blow the sawdust off

Spray box that recycles the liquid through a filter to be re-sprayed.

Optic sensors to start and start cycle.
"let the machines do the work"

KirkD

Maybe spend some time in a drive through car was studying the last part where you rinse and the go through the blowers. Could set it up the same way only in reverse.
Wood-mizer LT40HD-G24 Year 1989

DDW_OR

so, strong blower box to remove sawdust
then spray box
then as the lumber is leaving a second blow box to remove excess water.
"let the machines do the work"

KirkD

Ya those blowers in a car wash lift the windshield wipers up. Maybe 4 of them. Two that blow up from the bottom and two from the top then A pause after it goes through the water and then the second set of blowers.
Wood-mizer LT40HD-G24 Year 1989

DDW_OR

first set = one blower ducted to blow on top and bottom
second set = also one blower that does not blow as hard, want to leave some chemicals.

maybe one blower ducted into 4 areas?
"let the machines do the work"

KirkD

Might be able to use the same blower just divert it to different ducts?
Wood-mizer LT40HD-G24 Year 1989

YellowHammer

Maybe just go through a dip tank on the roller conveyor?  It will rinse the sawdust off and thoroughly treat the wood.   
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Kbeitz

I have been to a high tech motorcycle car wash. They use hand a held blower
to dry the cycles off that will take you off your feet. I bet that would do the
job. I don't know where you would get one.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Don P

Really with borate the best way to get it in deep is to wet it down good and then dead pile it and let it soak in for awhile, I think the blower would be counterproductive. Borate also builds up on stuff pretty quick as far as maintenance is concerned. I imagine keeping rollers rolling might be a job, dunno.

DDW_OR

Quote from: Don P on March 26, 2017, 08:21:46 AM
Really with borate the best way to get it in deep is to wet it down good and then dead pile it and let it soak in for awhile, I think the blower would be counterproductive. Borate also builds up on stuff pretty quick as far as maintenance is concerned. I imagine keeping rollers rolling might be a job, dunno.
Thank you.
what is "dead pile"? is it stacking without stickers?



 
A = Blow box. used to remove sawdust before it is washed into box C
B = spray box
C = collection tank. there will be a re-circulation filter then pump back to box B.

maybe combine boxes B and C into one box?

Left conveyor will extend through box A
Box B will have no conveyor in it. Don P "Borate also builds up on stuff pretty quick "

"let the machines do the work"

Joe Hillmann

Are you going to be able to get enough air to remove the sawdust?  I think it may be cheaper and easier to make it work if you instead had a spinning nylon brush above and below the boards rather than trying to remove the dust with air.

Don P

Clean, run out under an overhead beam over a dip tank. From the beam have a hoist and a basket shaped like this ]. stack on the lower arms from the open side lowering each layer into the borate solution as you build a pile.  Lift out, roll the package down an overhead trolley on the overhead beam, set it down and fork it away. Best practice I believe is to wrap the stack in plastic for a week to let the borate diffuse in deeply, then break the dead pile down and sticker stack it for drying.

I've seen log home companies simply dip the stickered bundles in a tank using chains from the forks, then lift it out awhile later and put 4x4's on the top of the tank and rest the stack there to drip out, then take that stack away and repeat.

Kbeitz

I got some coal chute vibrators that would take the saw dust off most anything.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

YellowHammer

Quote from: Don P on March 26, 2017, 03:16:49 PM
I've seen ...... companies simply dip the stickered bundles in a tank using chains from the forks, then lift it out awhile later and put 4x4's on the top of the tank and rest the stack there to drip out, then take that stack away and repeat.

Me too, I've seen them dip the entire stack, not on an individual board basis. 

BTW, the best thing I did to remove sawdust, was to install a better band lubrication system.  It doesn't use as much fluid so more of the sawdust exits the cut, with some boards very clean of sawdust.

I also once attached a 24 inch wide floor sweep style broom head, bristles up, to the end of my drag back table.  As the board was returned by the mill, it passed over the broom head and the bottom side was swept clean.  This didn't work for the top, so I gave it up.   
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

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