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Sloppy yoke or runny eggs?

Started by sandersen, March 23, 2017, 11:00:51 AM

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sandersen

Update and Q:  My old 66 TJ is stripped nearly clean.  No motor, tranny, or TC.  The front axle is out and I just got the a-frame back from sandblasting and then the x-ray guy, where we sent it to trace out all the cracks before repair begins.  The rear axle is still bolted to the frame, but not connected of course.  Here's my Q:  Is there anything I should do to the rear ends while they are really accessible.  Last night I turned the yoke back and forth on the rear diff and there is about a half inch of play before it engages and the tires want to respond.  I checked the front diff the same way and no slack at all...the wheels want to move right away.  I'm of the mind set to tackle things when they are handy rather than rush through and have to pull parts out later.  I've never broke into TJ axles and diffs before, so I'm plowing new ground on this.  Tips/suggestions from the guys who know a lot more than me are always much appreciated, and helpful beyond all get out.  Thanks a ton.     
"Make every step count."

mike_belben

On normal ring and pinion axles there is a min backlash clearance spec so that either the drive side or coast side of the gear is engaged, one at a time.  Excess backlash would be from worn gears, incorrect carrier offset or incorrect pinion depth.. Or in your case perhaps all of them. 

Id pull the third member and inspect.  If the gearset is still serviceable then you should be able to get any needed shims from a a truck axle or roadranger shop and dial it in right.  Beware gear setup is a fussy job.
Praise The Lord

deerguy

Sanderson,

Tear it down !! I just finished rebuilding the rear axle in my 330 for what started out as a planetary issue. Once I pulled the diff and saw all the wear etc I was convinced I made the right call. The carrier bearing on the pinion shaft was worn in the casing so bad the pinion actually moved sideways in the teeth before the axle would move. If your locker is still good, the repair costs aren't bad at all. If you can repair it before you blow a gear, you are major dollars ahead, as the gear set is expensive. Mine had the TJ axles, and I got axle shaft, planetary etc out of a Cancar axle from a Treefarmer. Everything was identical except pinion shaft and diff casing.....

Good luck..!!

Deerguy
I knew she was a keeper when she told me to buy the old skidder !!!!!

Maine logger88

My 225 has a similar amount of play in it one thing to remember to is it's not all just in your ring and pinion it's gotta take up backlash in your planataries as well
79 TJ 225 81 JD 540B Husky and Jonsered saws

sandersen

An inspection certainly does make sense...I was just hoping to avoid tearing down anymore parts, but why put the rear ends back only to have problems later.  The rear one isn't so bad to pull, but the front being attached to the a frame?  That would suck to have to pull that again after all the new shims pins and new axle bolts are all tightened up.  Thanks for the advice fellas.  I'm in awful deep now, might as well swim to the deep end of the pool and go all the way.  Besides. it'll be a first for me to bust open the TJ pumpkins and dig in...it's all about the learnin. Thanks again for responding.
"Make every step count."

Neilo

That rear play is probably the No-spin

bushmechanic

Well it's always a man's own choice what he does. My dad always said if it ain't broke don't fix it, but on the other hand sometimes you can catch stuff ahead of time. In your case I wouldn't bother to take anything apart as the machine is for your own personal use. If you were going to put it to work, yes by all means make sure it is ready to go. The little bit of use your going to give it you may never have a hook with the diff's. I would check the oil and if there are no signs of damage.... give her hell!

Spartan

Quote from: Maine logger88 on March 23, 2017, 03:03:45 PM
My 225 has a similar amount of play in it one thing to remember to is it's not all just in your ring and pinion it's gotta take up backlash in your planataries as well

Yes, yes.
if you take the axles out, say you are inspecting the planetaries, the pinion slop is probably way less.  That is what I noticed as well.  Most of the play is in your no-spin and planetaries.  You can always drain the oil and look at the teeth on the ring gear from the drain hole with a flashlight, that might give you a better idea if you want to take the third member out or not.

teakwood

Here in the Forest Forum Family it's forbidden to have such a big rebuilt project and don't post any fotos!!! ;D
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

sandersen

Thanks fellas....I appreciate the input.  Im gonna give a peak as suggested by bushmechanic and spartan.  Then if things don't look good I'll be tearing out the third member but I'm hoping to avoid that for obvious reasons. I'll post some more photos of the project or as the little lady calls it the nightmare, asap.  I'm not sure they're gonna show anything new but I like to see photos too of other guys work.  Thanks again.  PS.  When I come in from the shop scratching my head and running for the manual, my wife says, "Run it by your logging buddies."  That's a pretty cool endorsement of the FF huh?
"Make every step count."

sandersen

Quote from: Neilo on March 24, 2017, 01:19:24 AM
That rear play is probably the No-spin

Neil's...meaning it's okay?
"Make every step count."

ohiowoodchuck

Like everybody else says. I think your getting the lash in your locker and the axle shafts etc. usually the lash is around .004 - .008 and a good way to check that is find a way to hold the pinion tight and rock the ring gear back and forth to check. Always set a dial indicator on the ring gear tooth.
Education is the best defense against the media.

Neilo

Yes, the No-spin has built in rotation movement between the dog clutches.

sandersen

Quote from: Neilo on March 24, 2017, 06:17:34 PM
Yes, the No-spin has built in rotation movement between the dog clutches.

Thank you sir!
"Make every step count."

Spartan

best way to get no slop is pull the axles.
Then you can turn the pinion by hand and feel the real lash.

sandersen

Quote from: Spartan on March 24, 2017, 06:40:04 PM
best way to get no slop is pull the axles.
Then you can turn the pinion by hand and feel the real lash.

Thanks!  I'm still learning about lash.
"Make every step count."

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