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Introduction...question

Started by Red Elk, March 14, 2017, 06:36:09 PM

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Red Elk

I'm new here. Name's Red. I've been reading up on the sawmill builds, framing, etc for a few weeks now. This place is wonderful.
I currently have several chainsaw mills, low budget, and a homemade bandsaw mill I got in a trade. I have built several structures over the years from wood, poles, timbers, but want to learn to do it the correct methods. My education is in engineering, and I like to build and fix stuff, hence the homemade mill. I figure I will learn my lessons, hopefully, then construct a bigger nicer mill in the future.

Along the way I am sure I will have lots of questions. I have been trying to use the search engine to answer what I can, and don't want to waste anyone's time with questions which probably have been asked already, but sometimes it is hard to find in the myriad of information on here. Ya'll are some pretty bright people, and it is humbling to read the threads.

My first question is to the track on the mill. I have notice a couple basic types of track used for under the rollers, which the carriage rides on. One is an inverted V, usually seems to be made from angle iron, welded to some other support structure. The other is angle iron as well, but mounted in the L perspective with the roller riding on the edge of the angle iron or on one edge of the "L".

Please explain to me which is better, the in's and out's of the two options. I am somewhat confused as to benefits and losses to each type.
Thanks in advance for all the info you so greatly share. As I can I will take some pictures of my mill/disaster and try to get them on for comments/recommendations.
re

Ox

Not sure if one's better over the other, but it seems to me that less sawdust will want to stay on the end of the "L" than on the larger flat surfaces of the "V".  Mine is the L and I've never had any problems with sawdust buildup or packing in the wheels or on the end of the L. 

Welcome to the forum - as you've already found out it's tops!
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

paul case

life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

POSTON WIDEHEAD

The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Kbeitz

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

slider

Welcome Red.
I can't answer your question but I would think that the v track would be easier to keep things tracking properly with less fabrication. Someone has been there and will chime in soon.
al glenn

drobertson

Welding structures really boil down to the cost of weight, but this has to be figured with many other factors , safety factors being real close to the top.  Flange and webbing play a big role in determining what weight you will need, and ultimately the cost of materials. Tubing is a common structure, as is channel iron, the desired strength and weight, as with fab methods will determine which may be the best. Controlling warp during the weld up is a bit critical.
Wishing you the best,  worst case is you had fun, best case it works, looking forward to seeing progress, 
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

samandothers

Just wanted to say hey and welcome!

Magicman

I too see it done both ways and without a thought.  You would want to eliminate any possibility of wet sawdust accumulating underneath either.

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

JRWoodchuck

I like Kbeitz used channel in the same idea as the L style seems to work well. I also used channel to support it underneath and if I were to do it again I would use rectangle tubing instead of channel. There is less lateral movement with tubing vs channel. Welcome! Where at in Idaho are you? I am in Baker City OR not to far from Idaho.
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

bandmiller2

Welcome Red, don't worry about wasting our time that what were here for, beats working. I have built A circular mill and a band mill using inverted "vee" and vee groove castor wheels. I feel you will get much longer life with that system as there is more contact area to carry the weight. I have never been troubled with sawdust as it just flakes off and never really builds up on the angle or wheels. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

wesdor

Welcome to the Forum Red. 
I can't add wisdom to your question but you have come to the right place for answers.

Darrel

Welcome Red, often times what is used boils down to what's available. I  have never built a mill but I have done my share of fabricating. I avoid buying materials if I have something that will work, and when I do buy steel I always check the scrapyard first and by what's there if it will work well and I can save a buck.
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

Jemclimber

A long time ago, before I knew about FF, I had a chainsaw mill and I made the tracks inverted "V".  I wished I had welded them in the "L" orientation because built up sawdust was a constant annoyance. I think "L" is easier to keep the sawdust off the track, but if you made good rail wipers on both sides of all your wheels, either orientation would be ok. 
One thing I would suggest is rollers on the underside to keep your head from tipping and or lifting.  My CSM would occasionally hit a foreign object, dull the cutters on one side and want to cut a curve sometimes lifting the head and eventually cause it to bind.
Show us some pictures of your creations, someone will probably learn something from you.

Welcome to the Forum!!!
lt15

Savannahdan

Husqvarna 3120XP, Makita DCS7901 Chainsaw, 30" & 56" Granberg Chain Saw Mill, Logosol M8 Farmers Mill

Czech_Made


FloridaMike

Welcome aboard... from another newbie!

Cook's Saw Mfg (a FF sponsor and a good place to shop for parts) provides this info on sawmill roller wheels:

Quote"3.5" V-Track roller wheels

CNC machined from solid round steel, these heavy duty V-track rollers have (2) 7/8" I.D. sealed bearings for smooth rolling and they require no greasing.  Weight capacity is 2,000 lbs. each.

There are two different styles to choose from:

1. V-track roller wheel with v-groove machined to ride on the 'rooftop' of 1x1 x 1/4" angle.  Used on our Hydraulic Mill

2. V-track roller wheel with v-groove machined to ride on the top of 1x1 x 1/4" angle positioned like an 'L'.  This is easier to push the head through the log on a manual mill.

Please choose the style you want from the drop down menu when ordering - Classified as either 'rooftop' or 'L type' "
Mike

thecfarm

Red,welcome to the forum.
This is a Thomas Bandsaw Mill.



 

The wheels ride on the "L" of the angle. I've never had trouble with sawdust. I did smash an acorn onto the track and that caused some problems,but no wipers,and never had trouble with sawdust.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

francismilker

Welcome to the forum!!!!!

I've had a mill in the past (home built) with the inverted V track and sawdust buildup was a constant problem. Even after installing some wipers to run in front of the roller wheels it was occasionally causing wavy cuts.

The WM I have now has the L type track and I've had no problem with buildup that the factory installed wipers don't take care of.
"whatsoever thy hands finds to do; do it with thy might" Ecc. 9:10

WM LT-10supergo, MF-271 w/FEL, Honda 500 Foreman, Husq 550, Stihl 026, and lots of baling wire!

Chuck White

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Red!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

kelLOGg

You can see the "L" track that Cook uses on the MP32. I use "floating" wipers made of plywood to keep the sawdust off. If there is any wear it is easily adjusted for by moving the cutting depth scale. I had the mill for 15 years.
Bob


Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Red Elk

Here are a couple pictures of what I am starting with...

  

 

Red Elk


Red Elk


Red Elk


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