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Changing my sawmill setup

Started by Deese, March 07, 2017, 11:30:56 AM

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Deese

I am searching for some good, practical suggestions on what I have attempted to describe below.

I am changing my sawmill setup to minimize the need for a tractor to unload/load logs. It's a 10 minute drive (on the old Massey) to my setup and this is becoming a real problem. Here are a few pictures for you to see how I was currently set up:


  

  

 
I took the sawmill off the elevated platform, repositioned it on blocks closer to the ground, and added the 10' track extension this past Saturday. Now capable of sawing up to 22' length. I forgot to take pics of the mill with the extension added. The elevated log deck will be removed and from now on, the logs will be on the ground. Back the trailer into position, lift the end of the logs with a winch, and pull forward. Logs will land on 4x4's for easier maneuvering with LOGRITE cant hooks.

People are going to want 20'+ beams. It is just a matter of time and they are going to be heavy. So, I've got to figure out a simple and inexpensive way to remove heavy beams from the mill onto a trailer without the use of a FEL. I'm thinking of rolling the beam (using cant hooks) off the opposite side of the mill onto some 4x4's, then somehow lift it with pulleys to be loaded onto a trailer. My brother's JD has forks, but again, my goal is to be as self sufficient as possible. Buying a forklift is not an option for me at this point.

Any practical suggestions on the best way to do this?

EDIT: The attached pictures are not current. The trees on the offloading side of the mill have been removed, so there is plenty of space to do whatever is needed in that area.

2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Rougespear

Can a modified drag-back feature be made to work?  Ie: pull the timber off the end of the mill, perhaps up an inclined roller conveyor?
Custom built Cook's-style hydraulic bandmill.

mad murdock

One of the primary reasons I chose the mill I did when I upgraded from a CSM(which I still have the Granberg mk III), was the consideration of not having to handle logs and such so much. This led me to the swingblade option, which is the easiest way to ditch the need for a FEL, Band mills have their place, IMO, but a swing blade offers so much more, IMO, worth the thought.  Milling without having to turn a log is a mighty fine notion! 8)
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

ChugiakTinkerer

I'd look into having some toe rollers and a 10' length of box roller track and just roll the beams straight off the end of the mill onto the trailer.  Something like this from Global Industrial has a capacity of 620 lbs per foot.

Edit: I see that's pretty much what Rougespear suggested.  If it's too much incline then the toe rollers can be raised higher (assuming you planned for that) to get the beam level with the end of the trailer.  A 22' beam of 8x8 would likely weigh what, around 600 lbs?  A few scissor jack toe rollers could raise it up enough to where you could roll it off the end onto the conveyor track.  Seems like it could work without too much investment in time or equipment.
Woodland Mills HM130

Deese

Thanks fellas for your input. The toe rollers would be perfect if the track were higher off the ground (as shown in pics). However, the track is only a few inches off the ground. I'm thinking of some type of simple I Beam trolley setup. Maybe just one I Beam that overhangs part of the track, lift the wooden beam off the sawbed with a heavy duty strap (strapping in the center) and chain hoist, rotate the beam perpendicular to the I Beam support posts, push it until hanging over trailer, rotate beam parallel to trailer, lower onto trailer.

That should work, right?

EDIT: It won't work that way unless the I Beam was secured from above to allow the trolley so roll down the length of the I Beam.    smiley_dizzy
I found some good photos on the forum and I think I've got a game plan.
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Gearbox

Think about this a 16 ft. beam raised up 8 inches in the center will be [ what ] at the end ? 16 to 20 inches . Enough to fit the trailer under . A roller clamped to the back of the trailer at deck high . Stab it with your Log Rite and roll it on .
A bunch of chainsaws a BT6870 processer , TC 5 International track skidder and not near enough time

nativewolf

Quote from: mad murdock on March 07, 2017, 12:07:29 PM
One of the primary reasons I chose the mill I did when I upgraded from a CSM(which I still have the Granberg mk III), was the consideration of not having to handle logs and such so much. This led me to the swingblade option, which is the easiest way to ditch the need for a FEL, Band mills have their place, IMO, but a swing blade offers so much more, IMO, worth the thought.  Milling without having to turn a log is a mighty fine notion! 8)

How is the new mill?  You promised some pictures of it cutting, when do we get to see some chips flying?  I've been thinking about them so very curious about your next few months cutting.
Liking Walnut

47sawdust

One of the reasons I went to the trouble of adding hyd.to my Lt30 was for the hyd. toe rollers for ease of handling large timbers by myself.The rollers and outfeed roller table were a big improvement.
By lowering your mill you may have gained in one area(log loading)but you may have hindered the ability to add some toe rollers.Forum member Larry has pictures in his gallery of toe rollers he made that used a boat winch to raise and lower.I built a set for my previous mill and they worked well.i will try to find the link for you.
A further thought is to build two additional bunks with a built in roller that could be lever actuated with a cam and detents to hold the roller in the desired position.Your lowered mill position would not hinder this operation.Just some backyard engineering to keep you out of trouble.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

Ljohnsaw

I haven't completed it yet but I'm making a trolley that rides on my mill track (similar to the head) with a electric winch (or a hand crank).  Lift the log or beam, run it down to the end of the track.  Half the beam would be hanging over your trailer.  Have some rollers on the trailer, drop the beam and re-pick at the far end and slide it the rest of the way on.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

mad murdock


[/quote]

How is the new mill?  You promised some pictures of it cutting, when do we get to see some chips flying?  I've been thinking about them so very curious about your next few months cutting.
[/quote]
We have been inundated with snow, cold, rain and also my 8-5 M-F work getting in the way.  I have the mill assembled and am working through some saw issues, as I am using my 075 to power the mill.  Havent gotten any chips cut yet, if the 075 wont cooperate, I will just get a 395XP and put on it. Plenty of power, and actually a bit more than the 075 according to specs.  I will post some pics as soon as I get it throwing chips, should be within the next week, I hope ???
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

ChugiakTinkerer

A winch on the trailer pulling the beam off the end of the mill should have no problems pulling the beam up an inclined conveyer track.  Especially if you have a toe roller or two.  With the mill bed sitting on the ground you could raise the end of the beam with a jack and insert a roller underneath that rests on the mill.  It would probably take a little backyard engineering and may be no easier than the trolley that ljohnsaw is building.  What is the height difference from mill bed to trailer bed?
Woodland Mills HM130

paul case

I used a hand crank winch with a pulley up and behind the mill to pull the ties off the back end. It worked good and I didnt try to lift the whole cant but just one end of it. That keeps it from swinging around without my help. smiley_swinging_board I guess that way if you put your pulley far enough and high enough that it would load them in someones trailer as well.
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

kelLOGg

I added 4 rollers to aid in moving heavy lumber to a trailer. I generally I work alone so I tried to make it easier on me. It's not a complete solution but I rarely have to lift as much as I once did.

I pick up the beam w/ the onboard winch loader and slip rollers under it. A 4th roller is height-adjustable to match the level on the trailer. I can either push by hand or use the sawhead. See pics.



 

 

 
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Kbeitz

I really love you'r little railroad track railing. I wonder where
someone could buy track like that ?
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

kelLOGg

Quote from: Kbeitz on March 08, 2017, 12:53:56 AM
I really love you'r little railroad track railing. I wonder where
someone could buy track like that ?

Are you referring to the track the rollers roll on? If so, it's just 1 x 1 x 1/4 angle iron tack welded to the main beams.
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Kbeitz

Quote from: kelLOGg on March 08, 2017, 06:50:27 AM
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 08, 2017, 12:53:56 AM
I really love you'r little railroad track railing. I wonder where
someone could buy track like that ?

Are you referring to the track the rollers roll on? If so, it's just 1 x 1 x 1/4 angle iron tack welded to the main beams.

In your first picture it looks like small RR- track. The top
of the track looks like 1/2 flat.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

fishfighter

Quote from: ljohnsaw on March 07, 2017, 04:53:34 PM
I haven't completed it yet but I'm making a trolley that rides on my mill track (similar to the head) with a electric winch (or a hand crank).  Lift the log or beam, run it down to the end of the track.  Half the beam would be hanging over your trailer.  Have some rollers on the trailer, drop the beam and re-pick at the far end and slide it the rest of the way on.

Some really great ideas in this thread. I was planning on installing a Ibeam/trolley system overhead.

Well, it looks like this is better idea. :D Once I get the saw mill shed close to finish, I was planning on added extra track. Heck, I might add 15' extra and add two trolley lifts and also a Ibeam overhead to help flip/move logs.

Wudman

Quote from: Deese on March 07, 2017, 02:04:57 PM
Thanks fellas for your input. The toe rollers would be perfect if the track were higher off the ground (as shown in pics). However, the track is only a few inches off the ground. I'm thinking of some type of simple I Beam trolley setup. Maybe just one I Beam that overhangs part of the track, lift the wooden beam off the sawbed with a heavy duty strap (strapping in the center) and chain hoist, rotate the beam perpendicular to the I Beam support posts, push it until hanging over trailer, rotate beam parallel to trailer, lower onto trailer.

That should work, right?

EDIT: It won't work that way unless the I Beam was secured from above to allow the trolley so roll down the length of the I Beam.    smiley_dizzy
I found some good photos on the forum and I think I've got a game plan.

If you want to go with the toe board roller idea, you could always lower your trailer to bed height.  Excavate a hole for the trailer to drop in at the end of your sawmill.  You can slide off the end of the mill onto the trailer.  Be sure to allow for drainage so you don't have a swamp to deal with.  I think some roller conveyors would be your easiest option.  You can handle some fairly large beams once you get them on wheels.

Wudman
"You may tear down statues and burn buildings but you can't kill the spirit of patriots and when they've had enough this madness will end."
Charlie Daniels
July 4, 2020 (2 days before his death)

47sawdust

Kellogg,
I think your idea is great.Simple and effective.You must have been a good teacher.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

Deese

Thanks everyone for the tips. Very thought provoking. I like several of the ideas and all seem like they would work.
A friend of mine has some heavy 10" wide H Beams that I can have for free. Just a few miles down the road. I am thinking I may take him up on his offer and try to make use of them. Going to look at them this weekend.

Also, I want to do some sawing at night after work. That's the only way I can catch up. Got around 60 logs on the ground and more on the way. All of these are to be sawn into 2x's, so lighting is more important than moving beams at this current time.

My setup is around 200' from the closest power source.
I just want something quick and easy to set up to begin with, and maybe run a trench later on down the road.

So, would 200' of regular duty (13-Amp) extension cord power 2 or 3 LED work lights? How many lumens should I aim for?
Thinking of mounting them high in the few trees that are still surrounding the mill.
I found some 5000 lumen work lights for around $90 each.  :P
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

alanh

I can`t help you on the 110v needs, I haven`t run power into my sawmill shed yet but I have to add, I put a 15" double row led 12v light on top of my utv for plowing, forgot where I got it but they are available relatively cheap these days, I think its around 10k lumens.... man-o-man does it light up some acreage, I point it where i want, leave the utv idling...works great

alanh

maybe mount one on a tractor, or 12v battery with a solar panel or a wire off the mill alternator

Deese

2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

alanh

It does work really well, really simple design, too, the way its shaped and with the wheel guards its really almost impossible for it to get hung up on anything,  over and around rocks, stumps , trees...

ChugiakTinkerer

The voltage drop will depend on how much current the lights draw.  If each light unit uses 60 watts, the combined power is 120 watts which results in a current draw of 1 amp.  Calculating voltage drop on 200' of AWG 14 copper wire suggests a drop of 1 volt.  According to the internet, you want to stay under 3% voltage drop, which is 3.6 volts.

The old halogen work lights take about ten times the power and would result in a pretty significant voltage drop.  With LED lights you could probably even go to 16 gauge (light duty) power cord.
Woodland Mills HM130

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