Help with Walnut Logs

[D6c]

My brother started clearing a small patch of bottom ground next to a creek that has been in timber forever.  A few years ago he sold the larger trees to a logger but is now clearing the rest.

There are a number of small/med size black walnuts that he's set aside....about 15 so far.  There are still a few to take down so I'm guessing there will be around 35 logs (not necessarily long lengths)  Haven't put a scale on them but I'm guessing they run from 10-18" sizes.
So far they're just whole trees laying down with root ball attached. (taken out with an excavator)  I just ordered more Anchorseal and will wait to saw out the logs until I get it.

He hasn't decided if he'll be better of selling them as-is (full tree), cutting out the logs and selling, or letting me saw them for lumber.
If he lets me do it I'm not sure what kind of arrangement to make with him.....buy the logs (have no idea on value), saw them for hire, etc.
I don't think he's interested in owning the lumber himself.....he actually gave a bunch away a few years ago that my dad had sawed up, just to get it out of his way.

I'd like to saw them, but would like advice on how to preserve as much value in the logs as possible.
* Length to cut the logs?
* Time frame for sawing into lumber...how long can the logs lay?
* Best sawing method...just plain saw or something else?
* Thickness....1" boards or a mix of thicknesses?
* Initial air drying....stack w/stickers, tie tight with straps, and cover outside w/top overhang?
* What would you make stickers from?....Don't have a lot of dry wood around to make them out of.

I'm open to any advice.....don't want to make a bad mistake and loose a lot of the quality.

[GAB]

If it was may material I would saw some into bowl blanks.  When I saw bowl blanks I take a 1-1/2" board out of the middle of the log and then remove the pith from it.  This gives me quarter sawn material.
Also, live edge slabs seem to be popular today.  Saw some thicker stuff for table legs.
If you saw for flooring saw at least 1-1/16" or 1-1/8" thick.
You might want to try and presell it before sawing.  I do not know what your market is.
Just some ideas I'm sure others will have some suggestions also.
Gerald

[D6c]

If it was may material I would saw some into bowl blanks.  When I saw bowl blanks I take a 1-1/2" board out of the middle of the log and then remove the pith from it.  This gives me quarter sawn material.
Also, live edge slabs seem to be popular today.  Saw some thicker stuff for table legs.
If you saw for flooring saw at least 1-1/16" or 1-1/8" thick.
You might want to try and presell it before sawing.  I do not know what your market is.
Just some ideas I'm sure others will have some suggestions also.
Gerald

Thanks,
Hadn't thought about bowl blanks....definitely table legs (4 x 4 or so) from smaller logs.
Why so thick on flooring?....Just to be sure it will clean up to thickness after jointing?

I don't have any "market" to speak of as I'm just getting started.

[Brad_bb]

I pay about $1/BF Doyle scale for walnut logs.

How you cut them depends on use.  I make timber framing members.  So If the log is 12' or better I'll cut an 8x8 or 10x10 timber from the middle.  Outside of that I'll cut 4x8 x5ft. for brace stock.  I try to make 6x6 out of logs that are just bigger than that(8-9"dia).  It depends on what is needed too.  I recently needed walnut stair treads 4x12 x 6ft.  When cutting this stuff, I usually get some boards from the outside of the log, outside of this material I'm cutting.  If I have 4 inches or less outside of what I'm cutting, I'll cut 5/4 or 8/4.  Often the very outside of the log I'll get some 4/4 pieces that may have wane or bark, those I get some sticker material out of.

[TKehl]

The Walnut heartwood is good for a long time.  The sapwood may rot off after a few years.  IE, you have some time.

Thoughts:

1.  Since the root balls are up, you are maybe halfway to some highly figured wood (gunstocks and turning esp.).  I've been reading on here about the basics and have been trying to come up with a good method to cut them efficiently.  Haven't tried one yet though.
2.  I've heard people talk about mill not accepting timber taken with dozer or excavator.  Embedded rocks from the blade/bucket would be a big reason.  I don't know if the stress of being pushed over has anything to do with it or not.  Would love to hear from someone who does know.

[GAB]

If it was may material I would saw some into bowl blanks.  When I saw bowl blanks I take a 1-1/2" board out of the middle of the log and then remove the pith from it.  This gives me quarter sawn material.
Also, live edge slabs seem to be popular today.  Saw some thicker stuff for table legs.
If you saw for flooring saw at least 1-1/16" or 1-1/8" thick.
You might want to try and presell it before sawing.  I do not know what your market is.
Just some ideas I'm sure others will have some suggestions also.
Gerald

Thanks,
Hadn't thought about bowl blanks....definitely table legs (4 x 4 or so) from smaller logs.
Why so thick on flooring?....Just to be sure it will clean up to thickness after jointing?

I don't have any "market" to speak of as I'm just getting started.

Some flooring manufacturers, like the fellow down the road from me, like to make their flooring 13/16".  Also cabinet makers prefer 13/16" finished thickness.
Gerald

[Delawhere Jack]

Just checked out some of your mods on you mill. Pretty clever!  ;)

Walnut logs that size tend to have a large sapwood -to- heartwood ratio. That may lower the value of the logs if sold to a mill. Custom furniture makers often seek stock with heartwood and softwood for the contrast. Milling some into slabs for tabletops, benches etc with live edge about 2" +/- thick would have a market.

It's really hard to say what size to mill to, because no matter what you decide, someone will come along and want something different. Maybe mill a log or two as samples, and keep some in log form that you can cut to order? Walnut logs keep pretty well. Like TKehl said, the sapwood will rot away if you leave them on the ground, but the heartwood will last a long time.

Maybe see if you can trade some labor in helping your brother do some clearing in exchange for some logs?

For stickers, what ever you use, you want it to be dry. Don't use edgings off of green lumber you just milled for stickers, you'll get sticker stain. 1x3 furring strips ripped in thirds is a cheap way to go, or scrap 3/4" plywood ripped down.

Be sure to post some pics if you do mill some. We (I) LOVE WALNUT!! 

[Brad_bb]

One other thing, I had saved some walnut in my barn for a year. anchor sealed.  It stays dry in there.  Even with the Anchorseal, some drying occured and a couple checks opened up along the length of the log and penetrated in.  In retrospect, When trying to cut a timber boxing the heart, I'd probably try to mill it sooner rather than later.  I think this will reduce the checking in the timber, and prevent a check from being in the outer wood that gets milled.  I used one log recently to mill 4x8x 6ft brace stock and a few of them had a check or multiple checks running through them, which really compromises the quality of them.  I would have been better off milling it green when I got it before those checks could form.

[ToddsPoint]

I'm currently milling walnut that has been down coming up on 2 yrs. this May.  Timber was logged and I'm salvaging the crotches for gunstock blanks.  I haven't hit a punky piece yet. 

The stumps can be made into dandy gunstock blanks.  Stump wood will move and distort badly until dry.  I cut mine into 12/4 slabs and let them dry 5 yrs.  To mill the stump, start by chain sawing the roots off.  Cut them at an angle toward the tap root (watch for rocks) so the stump looks like a giant pencil that has been partially sharpened.
If the stump was alive recently, black liquid will ooze out of the lower stump when you cut it.  Catch a little if you can as this makes great walnut stain.  Gary

[thecfarm]

Need a market for the lumber. Yes,you can hang onto it,but need room to keep it out of the weather. I myself would sell it as logs. I have no market for lumber.Logs I can sell. Yes,lumber is worth more,but I have no market for it. I spend less time with selling logs too.

[wesdor]

+1 on what TKehl said. Those root balls have some great potential for figured wood and value to wood turners. Suggest you power wash as much dirt as possible then start with an le chain saw

[ppine]

I have a friend up near Boise that is pretty good with wood. After wind storms he drives around looking for interesting trees to salvage. Over the years he has found some large black walnut trees and cut them into large slabs and stored them in his barn. I asked him to make a walnut slab for the island in my kitchen. The grain is matched perfectly and the growth rings are about 12-14 per inch.

The kitchen has two varnished red Douglas fir doors and oak cabinets. It is the perfect kitchen for a forester.

[D6c]

.....Maybe see if you can trade some labor in helping your brother do some clearing in exchange for some logs?.........

For stickers, what ever you use, you want it to be dry. Don't use edgings off of green lumber you just milled...1x3 furring strips ripped in thirds is a cheap way to go, or scrap 3/4" plywood ripped down.

He does want me to take my dozer with root rake over and do the cleanup so might take logs in trade...Or for other work later

I might have made the mistake of using some newly sawn oak for stickers.....Need to get a bunch dry and stockpiled.