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Steel Threaded Rods and Brackets for Tension Supports?

Started by rmallaire, February 23, 2017, 05:29:14 AM

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rmallaire

Hello everyone,

I have been a member for a while now, however never made posts.

I have developed a general knowledge for timber framing after reading A Timber Frame Workshop by Steve Chappell and Timber Frame Construction by Jack Sabon.

I am planning a timber frame project to serve the purpose of a shed/ small garage/ small barn for myself. A year ago I purchased an assortment of timbers from a gentleman who was unable to complete his project.  The purchase included about 100   white pine timbers ranging from 12-18'; most are 8x8s, 6x8s, 6x10s, 7x10s, 6x12s and 8x12s.

I have been designing a frame by incorporating ideas I like from other completed projects.  Some things I like from other frames include: the tie beam at least 9' above floor, clear spans without center posts in the middle bents, high posted capes allowing for the effect of a knee wall in loft area, lean-to for allowing storage of tractors and equipment.

Currently, I have been designing an 18'X24' high posted cape utilizing a queen post truss design, with a 10'x24' shed lean-to on the side. I have made some drawings which I will upload later.

Something I would like to utilize is my access to a friend's steel fabrication shop. I would like to incorporate steel threaded rod for any areas where there is zero compression. As a side thought related to the incorporation of steel, if possible I would also like to fabricate any steel brackets that be useful such as floor joist hangers. 


I would like to hear any input from members as I am in the currently in the planning phase of my project. If anyone has examples of steel incorporated with high posted capes, or similar frames, I would greatly appreciate anything you can share.

Thank you



dchiapin


Brad_bb

Why do you want to use steel brackets?  Your design, based on what you describe, would not need steel.
Mortise and tenon and shouldered joints will be plenty strong.  Are you planning to have your plans reviewed by an Engineer.  It's always recommended and in my opinion worth the relative small amount of money relative to the project.  They'll often offer something you didn't think of, in addition to making sure your beam sizing in all locations are sufficient.  They can also help you with the foundation design.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Don P

I might be missing something but if you have 12-18' material and a 24' span there is a high tension joint in the discontinuous bottom chord of the truss. I was in a kingpost trussed state park pavilion today. The bottom chord was tabled into the king from each side and there were 4 pegs showing. I knew that wouldn't get it. Sure enough there is a threaded rod trenched into the upper side of the bottom chord, out through the top chords. That is the real tie.

For a joist hanger there can be a back plate against the girder the size of the joist and covered by it, attached to the girder. A bottom plate supports the underside of the joist, 1.5" bearing min. Then a vertical plate going into the center of the end of the joist, hidden in a centered vertical slot in the end of the joist and extending into the joist enough to satisfy whatever connection end distances are needed. It's a way to make a relatively unobtrusive hanger. Post and beam construction is less limited by notching rules, what often drives timberframe material dimensions is not the overall size of the timber it is the wood remaining in joinery areas after mortising. Both methods are fine for construction.

rmallaire

Hello,

Thank you all for adding to the discussion.

dchiapin,  thank you for the picture, I added them to a folder of ideas I like. 

brad-bb,  I am having my local building inspector review the plans. I hadn't considered an engineer but now I will. Perhaps for a small plan like I described, steel rod nor brackets are necessary.  Traditional joinery is certainly beautiful, though I do also like the aesthetics of the steel brackets added too like in the picture dchiapin posted.  Ideally I would like to use both methods.

Hi Don P,  I would like the frame to be 18' wide by 24' long.  Three bents, ~12' apart each.  Please do not go out of your way, however if you happen to have a picture of the joist hanger bracket you described would you be able to share it?

Thank you

Don P


rmallaire

Don P,

Thank you for sending those links.  I never knew those connectors existed.

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