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B-16 tracking problems

Started by mike phillips, February 16, 2017, 10:29:49 PM

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mike phillips

hey again guys- I just posted a moment ago but I didn't see it on the board, so i'll do a shorter one. don't know what happened. I have a 94 timberking b-16 with flat steel wheels. couldn't get it to track right, well, took a long time. took off the wheels and had them trued back flat again and replaced idle wheel bearings. they press in but seemed to be kinda loose. I got them plumb again and lifted up the guide rollers. this time they were fairly easy to set tracking on and I got it perfect when I turned wheels both ways. before, I would always lose my tracking adjustments when I changed blades and would have to spend couple of hours to do it again. this time took about 20 minutes. to check myself, I loosened blade 7 turns with my T handle, then tightened it back up 7 turns. spun the wheels and tracking was really bad. didn't stay. I think I have checked everything. drive side bearing wont move with a pry bar so I figure its good. all my bolts are good. the wheels stay plumb. someone mentioned loose bores on the bearings. the "pressed" fit did seem loose, like I could tap it lightly with small punch and it would come out of bore a little. can track it easy now but when I loosen tension and tighten it back, I lose everything. I have friends who say they set it one time on their mills and it stays. if I got it bored for a sleeve or something and then re-bored it for the bearing where it was tight, do ya'll think it would fix it? I don't think even belted wheels would solve it. would a loose fitting bearing do this? any help would be appreciated. thanks.

ladylake



Yes a loose fitting bearing will cause all sorts of problems the best fix for those wheels is to take it to a machine shop and have it bored out a little and put a tight fitting steel sleeve in the wheel , also have the bearing to sleeve tolerance real close.   I found the cast iron wheels get loose around the outside of the bearing way to fast, after installing a steel sleeve I've made around 10000 hours on it. I would have gotten those wheels crowned like Cooks and Baker uses.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Kbeitz

Locktite sells a product call bearing retainer for things like that.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

ladylake

 

You could try that locktite but I don't think it will stand up to the pressure on a band wheel as cast iron doesn't.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

tacks Y

Is the bearing it self bad? Some take a prick punch to the bore or shaft, small but many dimples. Then use a bearing lock product. The slide the supports the wheel maybe wore? Good luck

Larry

I don't know if poor bearing fit is effecting your tracking or not.  Its best to have the mill set up according to accepted practice and go from that point.

As a general rule of thumb, bearings should be a press fit on the part that rotates and a sliding fit on the part that is stationary.  On a sawmill the wheel rotates and the shaft is the stationary part.  Applying this logic to your mill the bearing will be a press fit into the wheel and a sliding fit on the shaft.

Bearing retainer is wonderful stuff and I always have some on hand.  It will not correct run out with a loose bearing fit.  Don't know if that small amount would cause a problem.  Like Steve I'm skeptical if it would be a long term solution.  It would be cheap to try it.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

ladylake


When the bearings on my mill got loose in the bore the band would come off and break blades fast. After I got a couple of replacement wheels under warranty from TK and they did the same thing I decided I needed to fix it good which the steel sleeve did for around $75 at my local machine shop. May as well fix it good.  Every TK owner should check for the bearing getting loose in the bore.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

mike phillips

thanks for the reply everyone. lots of good, sound advice here. steve, I probably should have had a crown put on those wheels. I was kind of afraid of having to get my blades flattened back out but that may not have been a problem. I could always still put a crown on them. do you think I would have to get blades 'flattened' or 'rolled'? going to go ahead and get wheel bore enlarged and sleeved to be on safe side. hope that fixes it. I never thought about the idle plate shaft is fixed to getting worn. should I look at that? seems like that would take care of itself. I did order some new wheels grooved out for a b56-belt. I got model# off my wheels [maska-# 1B184SK] and it crosses over to a dodge wheel that is grooved #455574 which I got at motion industries for $118. have to get one bored larger for the idle bearing. bushing works for drive side. got the bearings at TK. motion was lots higher on bearing. would have bought wheels from TK but I couldn't pass that up. I sure hope this solves it. seems like  I've tried everything else. i'll let ya'll know how it goes. thanks again.

ladylake


Don't worry about the idle plate shaft, mine has almost 13000 hour with no problem.  I think with 1  1/4 bands no need to roll them, maybe with 1 1/2 band. What's weird is they curve in the opposite direction from the crown or belt. By all means get your wheels crowned as I've heard  nothing but trouble from the flat steel wheel but have never ran them myself.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

mike phillips

hey guys- thanks again for everyone's advice. good to hear my idle adjustment plate isn't the cause. boy steve, too bad you had to mess with new wheels like you did. I'm glad you told me that as I'm having to get a new wheel bored for idle bearing. I think I will go ahead and have a steel sleeve put in and I should be good to go for sure. new wheels will have belts so should be lots easier to track. I can still get my old wheels sleeved and crowned but maybe I wont need to? I know the flat wheels sure made a pretty cut when I could get them right but I imagine the belted wheels work the same? I cut a seasoned hickory log about 14 in. diameter and it cut it real easy and could barely see the saw marks. will a belted wheel do as good? anything would be better than having to spend all your time adjusting when I could be cutting logs. my nephew has a TK 1220 and he never has to fool with tracking. this b-16 is an old saw but I bet it works real good when I get it right. I sure do like it. thanks again and I will let ya'll know how it goes.

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