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Wanting straight lumber, my idea

Started by dustyhat, February 14, 2017, 08:28:45 AM

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dustyhat

Going to saw some poplar for framing lumber for my own use. thought of sticking across every 20 inches and going vertical with the sticks also. and then instead of weights i would use ratchet straps about three of them. i know its over kill but i want the least edge twist as possible. has anyone did this, if so what was the results, good or bad idea? i know i might have to machine the edge anyway but im trying to not wast and save work in the long run.

Magicman

Proper log setup, face opening, and sawing technique are just or more important than stickering/drying.  Badly sawn lumber will not dry straight.  Also size matters.  Small trees/logs generally will not produce suitable framing lumber.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

dustyhat

Good point magic man, all this will be milled out of good sized yellow poplar . thats why i dont want to wast it. and the vertical sticks i thought of pointing the ends to be drove down after stacking . i believe would be my easiest bet. and i might add all this would be 2x6s

Magicman

Here is a Framing Lumber topic that may be of some help.  Tulip Poplar is less forgiving than SYP, but the sawing principals are the same.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Tulip poplar (aka, yellow poplar) is known to have a lot of stress in the tree that results in warp when drying.  Trees around 16 to 22" diameter seem worse.  To accommodate this stress, there was the good suggestion to cut wide, bark-edged flinches, dry them and then rip the straight studs out after drying.  It is call SDR for saw, dry, rip.

You need many straps to develop enough force to hold the lumber flat...the equivalent of 10" of concrete covering the top of a pile has been shown to work somewhat.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

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