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Sawing logs longer than your mill?

Started by EZland, February 11, 2017, 09:12:28 AM

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EZland

Whats your tricks for sawing logs longer than your mill.  I have a Ezboardwalk jr without an extension  and usually saw alone.   
EZ Boardwalk Jr. 30", Husky 455, Kioti 5010 w, FEL , And I just moved to Ohio.and still looking for logs.

God is great!  I will never be as good as the "Carpenter's Son"

LeeB

'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

paul case

At first I thought only on a woodmizer but this video is interesting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3ICJ1mqbGE

PC
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

MobileSawMilSlo

Quote from: EZland on February 11, 2017, 09:12:28 AM
Whats your tricks for sawing logs longer than your mill.  I have a Ezboardwalk jr without an extension  and usually saw alone.

Hi

I recorded one video where I was sawing aprox 30 feet long log.

I hope that you would see how it can be done and how I do it as beginner :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GE3mg3EfG-Q

Regards
Woodmizer LT20 mobile and TTP-600 Premium Plus
DAJK - all sawing equipment in one place

Ga Mtn Man

"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

LeeB

Must be good. Same one I posted in the first reply.  :D
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

hopm

Ask a question and get an answer. Just posted this question in a new thread and then found this.

Thanks!!

Peter Drouin

One way.


 
You can bring the head up while you're cutting to cut the slab off.


 
Or stop and cut.


 

You can go all the way around then pull it back and just turn, cut off the rest.


  

  
Take it off with John ;D


  

 
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

EZland

Any advise for the opening cut on a manual mill?   Not sure how you would keep the same plane.   After the first cut it would be a lot easier with a flat surface.
EZ Boardwalk Jr. 30", Husky 455, Kioti 5010 w, FEL , And I just moved to Ohio.and still looking for logs.

God is great!  I will never be as good as the "Carpenter's Son"

Ga Mtn Man

Quote from: LeeB on February 11, 2017, 02:02:27 PM
Must be good. Same one I posted in the first reply.  :D

Sorry Lee...shoulda clicked on your link before posting. :-\
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

4x4American

On the tutorial that Lee and Paul posted, I don't understand how they get into the cut if they start the cut
with the small end past the operator station.  Unless the log has enough taper which I suspect a long one wood (pun intended).  BUT, if you look at the picture, they're not showing something or explaning it in a way that special people like myself can understand it, because they have the cant sticking out past the operators end, but, it's got 4 faces sawn as far as I can tell.  Maybe too many suds is blocking my vision lol
Boy, back in my day..

WV Sawmiller

   I have read the tip where they discuss, at least with a WM mill, pulling the log forward past the head and the other end such that the saw will pass completely through at the tail end of the log. After making all 4 cuts lift and roll the log forward and cut the other/front end.

   Has anyone done this in reverse where the end of the log is off the tail end of the mill and start the cut from the front? Peter is that what you are showing on your response? That's what I think I am seeing. Looks to me like it would be easier, or at least just as easy, to saw it in that fashion.

   I think this is addressing 4X4's question if I understand his question too.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

4x4American

The way Peter illustrates makes perfect sense to me...In the article, I don't get how they dive bomb into the log if the front of the log is past the front of the mill.  Doesn't make a sense to me.  ??? 
Boy, back in my day..

Peter Drouin

There's a bunch of ways to do it. Faster for me to cut all the way around, then pull the log  back.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Ga Mtn Man

4x4...They left a picture out of the sequence but if you read the text carefully it does make sense, although it is a kinda hard to follow.

Peter...What do you do if the uncut end is too long and ends up sitting on a bunk?
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

slider

Customsawyer taught me to saw up out of the cut before you get to the end with the head moving.I also use an extra roller table to support the log.If you have roller toe boards it is easier.
al glenn

Dave Shepard

I do it the same as Peter for anything over 45'.



  

For longer stuff I add another BX. 57' capacity, 52' log:



 
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Kbeitz

I made a fast attach extension for my mill. 5 bolts and it's off.
The orange part is the extension. I have a set of new jacks to
put under it. It's much easier than fighting a long log.



 





Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

4x4American

Boy, back in my day..

Kbeitz

Quote from: 4x4American on February 12, 2017, 12:42:01 PM
Did ya run out of blue paint?  :D

Yes I sure did... i bought two gallons of discontinued  paint cheap
and thought i was getting a good deal at $5.00 a gallon. it took all
of the two gallons to paint the mill and i had none left over. Now
I can't buy the same color to match.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Brucer

Quote from: WV Sawmiller on February 11, 2017, 08:45:09 PM
... Has anyone done this in reverse where the end of the log is off the tail end of the mill and start the cut from the front? ...

Yes. It's the only way I cut over-length logs.

Quote from: EZland on February 11, 2017, 06:56:49 PM
Any advise for the opening cut on a manual mill?   Not sure how you would keep the same plane.   After the first cut it would be a lot easier with a flat surface.

I've done it on a manual mill. You need to be able to shift the partly cut log lengthwise on your mill. I used the hook (of an old-style peavey) attached to a come-along.

Keeping the same plane is key. One guy I know made a cradle out of lumber that supported the log. He would slide the entire cradle along the mill. That's a pretty slow way to do it. My method was to cut as far as I could (just a Peter does), then roll the log to get the flat side down. Saw the second face as far as possible, then slide the log (on the flat face) and finish the cut. Go back and deal with the original face later.

As you said, once you've got a flat face the length of the log, it's pretty straight forward.

Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on February 12, 2017, 07:42:01 AM
...What do you do if the uncut end is too long and ends up sitting on a bunk?

The basic Wood-Mizer frame has close to 6' of cutting room past the furthest bunk (as long as you swing the movable bunk out of the way). I didn't have this room on my mill with two 6 foot extensions on the end. There's only a few inches of cutting room past the last bunk on the short extensions.

My method was to have a set of 3 wooden spacers on hand, which I could place between a bunk and the flat of the log. One spacer as close to the uncut end as possible, one as close to the sawn end as possible, and one in the middle. That worked well on my hydraulic mill with roller toeboards to move and lift the log while I set the spacers.

I've also seen a guy cut two long spacers that ran lengthwise down the log. He didn't have roller toeboards so this allowed him to slide the log and the spacers down the mill.

For really long logs I always have some method of supporting the overhanging ends of the log or cant. It's surprising how much a green log or timber will sag under its own weight. And even though the saw won't be cutting the overhanging part, if the overhang is too long it can bow up the centre of the cant.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

Nomad

     I'm the guy who made the cradle.  The way everybody else does it works great if you're cutting a beam from a log.  But if you need boards the full length of the timber it'll only work after you've got the first side flat for a reference.  And in this case, I was resawing old timbers.  Only one cut each.  So the cut had to go the full length and had to stay flat.
     It was rather slow, but the results justified the time involved.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,93458.msg1439766.html#msg1439766
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

4x4American

Quote from: Kbeitz on February 12, 2017, 12:48:55 PM
Quote from: 4x4American on February 12, 2017, 12:42:01 PM
Did ya run out of blue paint?  :D

Yes I sure did... i bought two gallons of discontinued  paint cheap
and thought i was getting a good deal at $5.00 a gallon. it took all
of the two gallons to paint the mill and i had none left over. Now
I can't buy the same color to match.




I figured it was either that or to make it easier to find when it's buried under the snow or off in the dingle weeds
Boy, back in my day..

Joe Hillmann

Quote from: Kbeitz on February 12, 2017, 12:39:12 PM
I made a fast attach extension for my mill. 5 bolts and it's off.
The orange part is the extension. I have a set of new jacks to
put under it. It's much easier than fighting a long log.



 

Is the cable on the right side for your powerfeed?  If so, how do you make it work with the extension being removable?

Kbeitz

I have two eye hooks. One on the end of the extension and one 13 feet
back on the main part of the mill. When I take the extension off I unhook
the cable and loop it around a cam and back to the eye bolt that 12 feet
in on the mill. Works great. The cable has a turnbuckle on it's end.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

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